Vladislav

Exactly as said above! I was just going to ask where that golden frog came from??

Almost same matters overhere. Difficult to judge but my guess is 70% of market overall is made in China and 60% of what is marked Made in Russia actually is Chinese components. But I'm afraid the reason is customers. When you see an item for $25 and a similar one for $4 we seldom pay for the 1st one. Sure that $4 thing might be found as crap. But might be Ok too. More and more Chinese goods are quite of good quality. Also high developied country like the US, Germany etc has high taxes which are aimed to support social expenses. So when I pay for a Made in Germany item I understand I pay partially for clean streets in German cities and good quality of medicine overthere. On the other hand it looks to me many high brand companies pretend on getting extremely high wedges for their stuff. I mean when say a certain part for Mercedes-Benz is estimated $250 by Daimler but you can buy THE SAME part from Bosch for $80. I agree MB may have higher responsibility for the product but I don't estimate it for 3 times. 15-20% seems reasonable and I would overpay that amount for 100% official product. But for 3 times higher cost I would try a fortune for cheaper option. Recent case. I wanted a set of A/T tyres for my 4x4. Used to like BF Goodrich in the past and would gladly buy a set. I used to see them offered in $120-150 apiese range in the past in my country. Currently the quote is about $650 for one 285/65R18. Not the way to go for me. And recently I found out a Chinise copy branded Comforcer was sold for $140. I read the net and people's comments were Ok. So I payed nearly $600 for a set of four tyres. Instead of paying the same cash for one piese! They ride fine so far. This doesn't look Ok for a national economy. When you develop local production you 1st involve people in the activity, 2nd you keep your industry in hot condition, 3rd you are strategically independent. But we have what we have and I have no doubt our powers well know what they're doing and for which reasons.

Cool beasty! RS/RL700's are along my favorites. Congrats on the purchase!

Looks as a Studebaker wheel to me. At least by the look. Possibly some Diamond-T's had similar style but I'm not sure those were factory. Have no idea on the splines size though. WW2 Mack trucks had wheels similar to the commercial style - L and E-models. But of olive color.

You have something wrong with the numbers. If you're looking for the chassis info there should be a VIN of more digits than you posted. And I'm afraid no info on the crane is expected to achive on here.

I would follow Larry's guess. Engine oil or 80W90 maybe as alternative. The reason is to penetrate that felt to keep some "serive reserve" and supply licky oil to the shaft. So depending on how heavy the stuff is you may need adding a few drops more or less regular. And I belive any modern oil is a few classis higher than oils of the times that engine was designed. So the most every stuff would work. Sure if not kerosine.

RW700 had 3/8" thick rails which were of taller section in relation to RW600's. Those had 1/4" rails. Could have inserts to be doubled though. For engine options 613/713 is Mack, 643 Detroit, 633 Cummins and 653 for Cat.

To my understanding it's a kind of powder coat, thermosetting and hight temp resistant. Honestly not that much a matter of chemistry to me than a place they do it overhere. Haven't found any so far

Yup, 1991 is more for a E7. E6 has oval side covers on the block at the right side. Those were eliminated on E7. Probably for higher block steadyness for getting more HP and torque possible. E6 has dry liners so seems not much of a chance the coolant gets into the cylinders. E7 has wet liners so possibly indeed.

Would be interesting to learn how that temp resistant paint survives. Looks cool as it is now!

My feeling is studying Farsi is more efficient for brain exercising but I think in your case the book would work. BTW the language it is written in is very reach. Much more complicated reading for me than BMT site.

For those costs you may purchase a piece of brass hexagonal stock, cut into portions, drill holes and tap threads in them making nuts. I guess that's one day job maximum if you do that yourself. I'm also not sure if brass or copper is hard enough for that application if not it means those nuts are steel copper plated. If so stainless is the way indeed. A care must be taken though since stainless hardware easily catches up together when overtorqued just a little. So grease or another media should be applied on threads for preventing cold weld. And one more point. If you purchase common 18-8 or 316 SS hardware they're not similar strong as grade 8 hardware. It's not stated exactly in characteristics (no standard probably) but as I read somewhere they're close to grade 5 for strength. So could be used in many applications. And if you are not sure SS nuts are strong enough for the exhaust manifold (I don't know) higher or taller SS nuts might be found.

Of what I noted for other Mack engines (of the era) bearing shells have numbers stamped for each shell. And the numbers are usually different due to one shell may have a hole and the other wouldn't. But what I was going to note parts list point a number for a two shells set. And that number doesn't duplicate any of the shell numbers.

Wszystkiego najlepszego dla projecta!

Wow! Randy, friend... I see Hellertown courses of Russian are doing better than my Farsi exersizes, fine! The only point I'm Vladislav not Vladimir. Vladimir... is another guy Winfall women are very appretiated

Many thanks folks! Nice to hear so many friendly voices! Had relatively common day since it was in the middle of a week, Visited my parents on the day after (today). And going to party on the weekend a little. Funny and uncommon thing we got good amount of snow in the last couple of days after about a week of nearly T-shirt weather. So not the perfect time for barbecuing too.

Mabe that was something not really heavy?

Something was cut "a bit" more than that could be. What doesn't really surprize in an old truck. And putting two brake disks is an improvement. Since you have two sets of internal pins in action as the result. I also noted that the intermediate plate which you fit between two clutch disks I had in my truck was notably thinner than one in a used clutch set I bought ocassionally. Very notable difference, something like 9/16 compared to 3/4. Would hardly influence the pressure plate adjustment position and clutch brake travel.

Yes, factory parts.

Ok, I don't see hard matters to disagree. And I didn't have painful pinky but you had.

The clutch brakes exist in different thicknesses. The reason I belive is to compensate the flywheel cut off and possibly cut on the tranny housing where it gets onto either. But I have no idea on how to calculate the excees of the thickness. And those I bought +3/8" were still thin for my cases

The trunnion cap could be for oil in those days. At least my 1945 trunnion was made that way. Sure you can use greese in that spot too and I suggest it's only better. Especially if the seal of the spring seat over the trunnion bar is bad which is common. Later Macks had grease nipple and a pressure release nipple at the other side. What is on your picture more looks like a breather. But if so there should be a filling plug. And my setup had the plug exactly in that place. Central bolt - almost as Paul said. Your's look generally Ok. That top end has a nut attached to it, you can see it in that cavit if remove all derbits from there. Strange at one side the bolt is slightly offset, But I think it's not bad, just the holes in the leaves are a bit large. Or you will soon learn by noting leaves travel if the bolt is broken and than take the spring pack apart. Which I guess is not a job you really lust to do without hard reason. The condition of the trunnion spindels is very questional where the spring seats spin on it. Worth to check out at least for knowing the situation. You need to jack the axles for that or just yard drive with the steering wheels maxed out to the left or right and ask anybody to look at the rear bogie on possible shift of springs against the trunnion bar.

I made that alone. Attached a can of fuel higher than the pump inlet. So the stream was forced by gravity. Very sharp way of setting, a pump shop calibrates plungers that way. But care and attention is needed when removing the delivery valve. And sure a piece of old fuel line.

Macungie is overkill in emotions. Dutch show multiplied by twenty

Too probably. But isn't that right side a home made part fabricated of a piece of U-channel?