Vladislav

Can't belive! Sounds very drammatic. What I can say... Diesel is about 80-70 American Cents per litre here in Russia. Slowly creeped up from 50 or so Cents a year ago. And with no affect from the Middle East events. Sanctions work two ways. The 2nd is limitation of oil products leaving the country's inside market. But honestly I would better like the both events to not take place.

No, no, not that fast! He should buy a pair of rear alu wheels to install onto the CH!

You are always welcome Paul. And sure the rest of the crue. My collage research thesis had relation to centrifugal pumps. Not directly though. I studied mining and my diploma theme was "hydromechanization' - destroying of soft soils by stream of water and than transporting it away in a shape of pulp by big pipes. The pipes were really big, of 500-700mm ID and of 3-4 km of length. Pumps which were sopposed to move such volume of fluid were large correspondingly. And correspondingly expensive were cavitation issues. The most troubles with the pumps were predicted by regimes they're operated at. The main subject was managing it and the most straight and correct way was setting right revs. But that was a problem at the time (early 90's) since powerful semiconductive devices were unavalible and the pumps spinned at the speeds typical asynchrone electric motors provided. That way speeds of flow in suction and supply pipe lines didn't corellate well bringing cavitation to pumps and settling derbits on bottoms of pipes clogging them.

Speaking Tom's situaion cables could also be put at the outside to some anchoring spots the way we anchor a tent. But seems a risky deal with good chance being stumble. So that idea with fence posts or poles seems better. For example 2x2" square or 2" OD round pipes could be put into the ground (better cementized) maybe for a feet or two deep with a portion of 3-4 feet above the ground getting right along the structure side rib and bolted to it near the top and the bottom.

You can see some very long bridges hanging on cables. So X-ing a shed isn't a really hard deal.

Maybe it's not fine to flood up Larry's thread but seems I should toss a pair of nikels to this basket. Paul's explanations were wrong (or maybe we are both wrong with him as he clever addmits sometimes). The effect of cavitation is predicted by taking the fluid body apart. It's possible if you "pull one end" and "hold the other". For example in a centrifugal pump some portion of fluid is forsed to go to the outside due to spinning but the incoming fluid is hold down because of excessive resistance in the suction channel. Or similar effect can be achieved on a surface of impeller blades. Big impellers have section of blades made by the same principal as a plane wing. That "assymetrical ellipse" shape produces difference of pressures on different sides of the wing. More curved side gets lower pressure what helps getting the plane up. And same effect is used in leaned (not straight) boat sales. Ok, that's a rocket since but the point we deal regarding cavitation is fluid is broken down in a certain point. So a bubble occures there. That's not gas in fact. It's vaccuum. It could be gas filled to some minor grade because of intensive evaporation to the vacuumated volume but what has meaning is that volume is under notably lower pressure than the whole fluid body. When that bubble moves from the area with conditions which produced it to area with normal conditions normal pressure in the fluid presses it down immediately. And as long as fluid doesn't compress as gas it produces big hit in that spot. It's pressure wave spreads over surrounding fluid and since fluid is super-conductive for stress it achive structural parts of the device. During cavitation we have a kind of "hammering" to empeller blades, pump housing or a cylinder sleeve (here the effect is stimulated by pressure jumps in the combustion chamber if combustion isn't going right, for example being detonative). Ok, constant hitting to a structural element makes material brittle which is followed by chipping out and making cavits. This way general reason for cavitation to take place is incorrect movement of fluid in a certain passage. For centrifugal pumps the most typical reason to cavitate is higher revs than they are designed for. And clogged suction side too or sucking from very low level.

Best of luck! Fingers crossed.

Yup. Or just cross ropes. I mean for instance a steel (SS or galvanized) cord put from front lower to back upper corners with screw tie ups incorporated. A couple to each side and a pair crossing each other at the back end. Sorry I'm blind posting the advice, can't see the pics.

No!!! Alu fronts correspond with the alu tanks. And the rears are asking to complete the line. If the truck has tandems they could be different than the front. Or you can paint the fronts white and the tanks either. But you'd get the look of more like a fridge than a fashioned highway truck.

Welcomer to the forum! I have a couple of cents to toss in the ring regarding your ideas. 1st there was a guy on the forum who added airbags to the stock front axle of his 2nd generation Superliner. As long as I remember all 3 leaves rested in place and the bags were put in between the axle beam and bottom sides of the frame rails. The 2nd is I have a MH-model which normally (to my understanding) must have 3 leaves in each front spring as your truck. But that truck has only two leaves. I haven't checked the thicknesses yet so keep wondering of if springs of Vision-model (2 leaves) were used or just the 3rd leaf removed. But I have the truck driven for about 1600km when moved it to my place and found nothing extraordinar in riding. Ok, a cherry on the top of the cake - front shocks were not taking place there at all. Vlad

And Tom, if you're going to keep the Mack... Alloy rear wheels are needed to take place. Those white steel ones conflict with the fronts about the look.

Yeah, Joey must be very glad. I had no doubt honestly

I may be should not comment in this thread at all. And actually I don't do. Partially following Paul's advice and partially not wanting to share my point of view since it could be biased at least by the reason of having it from different environment. But I want to addmit I'm interested in learning what others suggest on the subject and have respect to their minds since sure they have reasons to have that mind. One point I want to share since it was mentioned on here and seems worth to aknowledge. Regarding christians. Official Iranian regime, at least in the state it was in two weeks ago allowed three religions in the country officially: muslim, christian and zoroastrian.

Ok, now probably that shamy nest is covered with snowflakes.

Wonder what was the origin of its body? Thick steel put together with rivets. Looks very massive and steady overall.

When I was fixing that setup I brought the shaft to machine shop and they cut the ends with lathe. Barely could remove the rust completely since there are threads for flange nuts at the ends and you can't make the shaft OD less than the threads since the saddles wouldn't pass the threaded portions. Than for repairing the saddles, actually - brass bushings (those were bronze originally) I had to purchase a piece of brass round stock about 100mm/4" OD and 400mm/16" long. Which cost some $$. And than a lathe man cut four bushings out of it to the size of the machined shaft. Also you need seals installed into the saddles at the inner side and there are wear rings pressed onto the shaft the seals work against. Those were rusty too which was the initial reason of all the damage. So I had to fabricate them either. I gave them to halvanic shop and they were plated chrome to survive long. So all in all that was quite a story.

Or a straight round drift or a screwdriver to put into the washer hole but deep for washer thickness only. Than try to work as a lever, possibly hitting the tool by hammer at its side.

A drill bit to cut its blades into and try to move?

This is what that looked like back in the day.

Those brearings were also grease filled. At least that's what I have in my NR-model of 1945. Jack shaft end caps (removable flanges) have extra seals fit inside which separate ends of the axle housing tubes from the bearings cavity and gear oil can't go there.

Definitely an old Mack rear bogie. 10 bolt carrier mounting pattern. Off an L-model or early B-model. Had those "elephant ears" attached to the chassis and the trunnion brackets attached to them. By the bolts which were cut by torch. My guess the only way is to check out junk yards with really old Mack stuff. But those trunnion axles tend to be rusty where they (are supposed to) spin in bronze bushings due to long gone seals. So if even the right setup would be found there are very high chances on need of heavy rebuild of the shaft ends and the bushings. I've done that for my truck.

Tom, it sounds like you just didn't tell that ferrule was made of gold. By its look it could really be. Otherwise I have no idea on the amount of efforts you put into location of it.

Happy B-day Heinz!

I've driven over that bridge in 2018. From Maryland to Virginia Beach. That was a matter of interest. My plan was to reach Keystone Truck and Tractor Museum and when I saw so long bridge on the map I resolved to take that route. Very impressive no doubt. I parked at the view point parking lot near the entry and saw a storm upcoming in the sea. So figured to not wait long. Had no idea on how the crossing could be dangerous. Expected for that to be safe being on a public road. And I was with a rental SUV, not a truck. Hit hard wind when over the bridge but that seemed normal for such a place. Reached the other coast before the rain. Sorry to hear about the crash and the driver's death.