Vladislav

Thank you! Almost as you said.

All I can say is I add my opinion to what said above. And I too like Mack trucks of 40's years (and own two). My preference is originality of a rig but your toy means your rules. Vlad

So is this the time to say Congrats??!!

Sounds like the valves are in the steering box with power cylinder put separately. You can only remove the lines from everywhere including steering pump and get a mechanical steering. What is I guess way far from what you want. The joint can be repaired in a machine shop. But that would be a headach and the truck must be parked for that time.

I don't know is that an assist cylinder or the only power cylinder. Which I would also call a power assist cylinder. Just depending on what it assists to - to the main cylinder or to a steering system.

Easterns usually had integrated steering boxes. That Western setup we talk about was born as an upgrate of mechanical steering. Mechanical gear in its place at the left rail with drag link attached to a Pitman arm. But the link has a valve assembly incorporated in it so when you apply force to it by steering wheel one or another valve opens (depending on the direction) and supplys pressure to a power cylinder which is fitted in parallel to the drag link. It may be fitted at the other side of the chassis (at the right) or right near the drag link. As soon as the cylinder has made his job moving the wheels the valve closes. If you continue forceing it by your hands cylinder continues turning the wheels further more. Actually this setup can be hydraulic or air and power cylinder can be attached to a tie rod too since there's no matter which point of the steering system you move. And may be arranged as an add on kit.

Weeping Willows? A kind of this? They grow here, not very common. I don't know why. Usually you see them near a river or a pond. Those in the picture were catched in Belorussia. It's 1000km to the West from my place and a little souther. But in general the same environment.

I've got mostly maples in my yard, planted them myself many years ago. Also a couple of oaks. Had a few birch trees too but mostly swapped them with firs which are seamless in the case of fallen leaves. The maples accompanied by oaks make a big job every authumn and I have to fill up 5 or 6 big sacks of old stuff and relocate it to a ditch along a side of my second property. This year turned out very short on time and I missed the moment. Yesterday's storm brang a few santimeters of snow onto the ground which cancelled the deal so far. The forecast promises warming back up in the next week so I foresee some gim with dirty wet stuff soon. It was fun a couple decades ago to put a hill of old leaves on fire. Fun for me and not for neighbours who built big houses close to my place so no such games anymore (but who knows?)

My guess the truck has valve assembly in the drag link and the power cylinder at the right. Doesn't it?

Does she cry of of how poor the shape of the poor old truck is and how soon are you going to bring it back to life?

You overestimating me Jojo. I've rebuilt a pump of my ED Lanova engine which I belive is very similar to that END-510 pump. It had a carbon ring combo'ed with rubber bushing and brass support ring. The parts were given to me new by a friend. But looked like some very usual repair kit of the past. The carbon ring works against a lapped spot on the pump housing. Actually a circle over the shaft hole in the housing. Cast iron was hardly pitted in the area so I ground and than lapped it. Cleaned bearings in solvent, put new grease, put new seal in place, assembled everything and spilled a half of glass of antifreeze in. Found it leaking so had to remove the pump wheel (sorry can't remember the correct term for the 2nd day). Found out I put the seal slightly wront. Fixed, reassembled, test filled with anifreeze agan - fine! All that was nearly 8 years ago (and the engine is still not in the truck!). But just the other day I finished restoration of a pump for my R-model (E6-350). It has a unified seal you remove from the housing and put back a new one (both avalible OEM and PAI). In my case it turned out I purchased original Renault part (it came from Europe). Of interesting points I noted 1st that unified seal has also conteined carbon (or ceramic-?) ring in it which just works against a certain internal part not the pump housing. Something like a Stemco hub seal. And the 2nd the overall design of that newer pump (E6 and E7 too) is very close to what Mack used in 40's and 50's. Even the gasket is the same. And as it looked to me you could cut the central hole in the old housing so it would be possible to fit that modern seal in it. Sure with a lathe. I just didn't have need already otherwise that might be a way to go.

You need to remove (by a puller) a belt pulley from one side of the shaft and than the pumping wheel from the other. After that the rebuild is a carbon seal and two bearings.

Sorry to hear. Of possible options which are seen to me is 12.00R24 tube type tyres made in China (Aeolus, Triangle, West Lake and others) and there were also Bridgestone brand 24's made in Turkey. Google search will help you. I don't know if your country is in EU, if so I'd ask Dutch guys. I know those tyres were avalible to purchase in NL a few years ago, saw them by my eyes.

Sounds like an interesting idea. I personally am not a fan of relocated fuel tanks as it takes away trucks originality. But that's a matter of taste and the owner's decission. We sure like to add something "from ourselves" to make our job special but my approach is modifying removable items keeping possibility to get back to the original shape if ever wanted. The idea of using bottoms of factory tanks for tool boxes worth considering indeed. SS wrap around with contrast painted bottoms would look cool. And SS requires less care in the future with less need in refreshening polishing in relation to alu. What also gets on my mind is use of diamond plate SS to correspond with the style of tanks. And what is the most important point I was going to note you should separate SS skin (or alu for the same matter) from steel tank bottoms to avoid halvanic corrosion which occures in the contact areas of SS with common steel really hard. So my way would be sandblast/paint bottoms, bend new SS skins of diamond plate sheet (a hard to bend stuff!),wrap it over insulating the mating areas with rubber stripe of paper gasked with liquid seal or poly film you apply on car panels to prevent stone chips and attach the skin by screws or bolts or blind rivets. No weld between steel and SS if you don't want to see rust leaking out from the seam after every rain or wash for the rest of the service life. Back to the original matter. I don't understand your plan completely so far but if I were you doing something like that I would use a set of factory square fuel tanks as actual tanks, maybe removed to the back for better weight distribution and a set of the modified tanks with SS skins as tool boxes installed in stock places with stock step weld ins. Right on the factory tank brackets. Than of color combo's you may paint both complete actual tanks and "false" tanks bottoms into chassis color having bare SS skins at the front. Or for example... Ok, say actual tank's skins into the chassis color with bottoms of all tanks into another color such as a cab or wheel hubs or what else. With bare SS skins at the front. Or all bottoms into the chassis color with front bare SS skins and rear black skins or cab color skins or so on.

Depending on the style of the junction you can (or can not?) separate one shaft unit from the assembly to change it in the truck. And keep the 2nd one for the future. Usually those "shaft units" are hold in the cab wall by a nut attached at the outer side. You drive it off and remove the unit inside the cab. If it's reattachable from the linkage you need access to that area only. If not you would need to take the most of the dash board apart.

To me the power divider is a sample of absolute engeneering genius. I just can't imagine how a man could desing this kinematic device. And it offers unique functional properties. Being said not being "an automatic lock out divider" but a kind of a differential. I suppose you read the this text in the past. If not it seems very remarkable. Sorry for the quality.

Even I was hoping to bring a truck to Netherland, maybe for half a year, to attend Mack show and a few other events. Seems impossible for the nearest future for me now but who knows? In your case I would put that as a target to participate at least once. I will look for more links, I definitely published 2 or 3 more show overviews.

I bought two sets of new tyres for two of my Macks which are under restoration. I bought both sets in 2012 I made about 2500 km on one of the trucks but the 2nd chassis never catched a road since. A time to swap them out?? Actually and to my understanding that tyre aging "legend" is mostly a legend. Sure supported by tyre producents since they sure are an interested side. As I suppose most worry of a vehicle owner is an old tyre could ocassionally and unexpectedly blow up putting the rig in a ditch or much worse into the opposite lane. Ok, got that. But steadiness of a tyre is predicted by the cord not the rubber. And as I was taught cracks in rubber are crytical because they allow water, sand or other abrasive fractures to reach out the cord. And damage it. And that may cause tyre explosion. So as long as you don't have cracks or cuts deep enough reaching the cord there's nothing to worry about. Ok someone can argue that an old tyre is "dry" being get harder and allowing worse friction to the pavement. Agree, possibly. But first how dry rubber could be after 10 years if not exposed to direct sun every day? And we can easily feel its actual friction capabilities just hitting brakes on both dry and wet asphalt and see the result. Again, I agree we may be not that perfect "feelers" to understand real properties perfect. But is that that really important for a hobby truck you drive ocassionally with well amount of common sence and no rush? A racing car or a motorbike is sure another game with different rules. BTW Michelins on my Honda sport-turer do perfect after 12 years of service. I swap them out when the thread gets to the limit but you easily feel very well how motorbike's rubber "hold" accelerating or braking hard on wet highway in a good rainy storm.

I used to see a double U-joint link with an angled steel bracket. But I mostly saw later DM's.

And speaking the particular truck. The inner cam looks in good shape in relation to the outer one. So possibly was swapped not long ago. The peanuts are a questionable mater in the case indeed. I will keep my eye on this thread too, would like to learn the turn out.

Mack put its power divider in production in late 20's. So now that setup is for nearly 100 years in the industry. With about no changes to its design. And been used in such reputable trucks as R, F, B-models... Does all this sound it's a weak spot? Sorry Mark, this comment is more adressed to Jojo.

I may be seen out of the line by the crowd but I don't see really crytical wear on both outer and inner cams. It's there for sure but I'd estimate the condition of the parts as 4 of 5.

That steering shaft adaptor on the steering box looks like was specially designed to clear the turbo tube. A factory part definitely. Don't remember seeing such ones on DM's. At least of 600 series.

You would (very very) doubtly purchase 11.00R24 tyres where you are at. And about anywhere else. That tyre man who offered the option too probably meant 11R24,5 tubeless rubber. On the other hand you will find 12.00R24 tyres in Irealand or in England if look good. They would be China or Turkey made probably but quite useable.