Vladislav

As Bob said above. And the same method M-A-C-K letters attached to the front of the hood.

It seems better to have low beam in outside lights just by prcatical reasons. Lights are closer to the sides of a vehicle to play a marker role and light pattern on the road is wider.

That's what I needed for. And Google said "sh*t" as the straight answer. But deeper investigation brang more. Oh, better to get back to the Cruiseliner deal.

Hi Ken, Just a point. Swap of a bumper and visor are much less job than rearranging the rear axles. You could even put such big bright parts up for sale when still on a truck. Very good advertizement way when people see the look they'd get. The rig looks cool on the pic. Sure might be found in poorer condition when up close. Speaking convertion 613 to 612 I'd consider airride for that. Keeping the FR in place cutting off the RR with the rear frame portion. FR diff would need attention though since there's a power divider in it. Would need RR carrier to be swapped into.

Couldn't they be of different thickness? Visually they're one style indeed. Would be interesting to check out the parts lists.

Wow! Interesting. I used to see a different setup on RW2.

Yes, we are all busy minding our own businesses. Happy B-lated B-day Paul!

Uggh! Italians have stolen a Mack color! What a shhhame!

Yes, this crossmember is supposed to be on the rear. I have a similar one on the rear of my MH. With spicers at the sides and put with the dish up. Very probably you have a similar part as the cab support but I expect that to be a single beam. If that one is double like the one in the pics I'd like to see your cab air ride setup. Good luck on the fix and future plans!

Sure it does qualify! Happy Birthday Linda!

This sounds right since R-model frame is a bit narrower than RW2/MH. I have the crossmembers off the R apart sandblasted and painted. So can check out the stampings if needed. Interesting point of using shorter crossmember with spicer plates on the single framed RW/MH. One of my MH's (I have them two) has the very rear beam arranged that way, with spicers at the ends. It's a single frame 1/4" chassis. But it's two stamped shells of the style the original discussion was about, welded together. Also remarkable point is the 2nd MH has the crossbembers off a R/DM. It's Camelback with single 1/4" rails. Sure those parts are wrong for the truck and the rear engine mounts are put on the chassis brackets using spicers to elevate them a bit (for an inch or so). Originally I was surprized seeing the engine lifted up that way but the owner couldn't say anything on that. And later I found the rear of the chassis became narrower than it should so the engine mounts couldn't fit right and somebody in the past arranged the spicers to clear up the edges of the frame rails they would interfere otherwise. Thank you for the part ##.

She's getting looking sexy. That white area - is that plain white color? Or with addition of pearl?

If you look at the #2 photo in the set of pics I posted you may find there was a back to back style using two crossmembers like yours. This way you could make a such one using your old part and that piece of DM. And that would be much stronger than just repair of your original part. But as far as I understand DM must be narrower. Also a berry from the same field - what is 9QL4551M? Is that exactly for Superliner? And for which frame? Single? Or triple?? I ask because those in my R-model are also 9QL-something. I don't keep the digits in my mind and haven't found them in the computer. But those would definitely be different from what you need by the width. At the same time looking almost identical on a picture.

Me either, ha-ha..

It appeared to me the trunnion shaft was higher on Temperleaf than Camelback. Not almost sure, follow Terry's advice.

A five star rating joke!!!

The truck looks having good potential. Congrats!

Looks like Mack used different styles of the crossmembers which played their role equally. Some trucks had the style your truck have, some those flat style doubles. That's for 80's years and maybe earlier. Don't know the reason. Options? Or just supplys from different vendors? My R's are Canadian built (actually assembled) and they look slightly different in a few points than typical US production vehicles. Of what I noted (if I'm not wrong) a certan chassis has all the crossmembers of the same style (what makes sence). But practically it doesn't look any wrong if you put one crossmember of different style and it fits right and functions well.

I wish you guys good luck! Spraying is not very time consuming. When all the prep works are done right.

Worth to point out these do exist of different width. I have two R-models (which are originally differerent to a RW/MH) with those and the truck with double frame has them shorter than the single rail unit. BTW my R-model with Neway has particulary this style for the rearmost crossmember. With shock brackets attached to it.

Looks like ARD-125 to me (the setup in my 1988 R-model) When I was taking my old iron apart a tag was found riveted to the RH (or LH?) airbag support plate down side (seen from the ground).

Check out PAI FKT-4736 and FKT-4737. I've got a trouble with one rod though when PAI bushing was found loosy in the hole. Another rod pressed in Ok. So seems like there could be different vendors of rods with differences in internal specs.

A couple add ons. There's a variation of that cross member as a double style when two similar webs are welded together for more rigidness (the 2nd pic). You can use it too paying attention to the shock brackets (using spicers again or so). And if you find a trouble locating a used part you may contact PG Adams in Vermont. Those folks specialize in fabrication of frame rails for trucks and also offer variety of crossmembers of different styles.

What you have at the rear is a common style Mack chassis crossmember. They were used on many trucks with Camelbacks and other rears in the central portion of the chassis. Just were put upside down overthere. More correctly, the very rear crossmember on your truck put upside down to clear up the trailer pin for coupling (and that's a common practice). Those "common" crossmembers may have holes for the shock brackets. If no you just drill them. There's one point though you need to keep in mind. Frame width is different between RW and earlier Mack model such as R, U, DM, F etc (which used to use those members) Those are narrower so you need a parts from a RW2 (after 1985) or MH Ultraliner (similar chassis). Or you can use a R-model part adding spicer plates. P.S. CH and later models have different distance between the rails too.

Drool, drool, drool!