Vladislav

Yes, I first fit the tranny and than attached pressure plate bolts through the inspection hole. I did it that way because I didn't have a piloting part (an old input shaft) and also because I did a swap of 15,5 clutch by that same way in my R-model. This way you don't have the friction discs loaded so they're free to allow the input shaft to mate the bearing in the flywheel. All in all I assumed it to me as a hard job, mostly when you finally put pressure plate screws. But could be done. And initially I was adviced this approach on here, on BMT. That clutch in my 1983 (or 82?) Cruiseliner was 14" clutch indeed. The identification is the flywheel for 14" is a deep dish while for 15,5 it's kind of a plate with 4 pedestals. Also the intermediate plate in 14" setup has multiple scuare cut outs over its OD to be corresponded with piloting pins in the flywheel. And 15,5 has four outer lips over it. Both points could be seen through the inspection hole. My story turned out I had to pull the tranny once more after the time I made that post. The matter was wrong setting of the pressure plate. And I couldn't correct it in the truck since the throw out bearing didn't have any travel (since was set wrong). So after remove of the tranny I compressed the pressure plate in an arbour press, found out the set screw was not seised (what I was afraid of) and corrected the settings. Than put everything back onto the truck (forgot which way I fitted the clutch since I may be having a 2" input shaft from another tranny since that time it was in my yard). And when in place I ended setting the bearing travel and ajusted the clutchg brake (which I put new). Of other issues worth mentioning I had that central plate not coming onto the piloting pins in the flywheel when put the parts together at the first time. Found that when the tranny was in place and I drove the pressure plate bolts (through that inspection hole and laying on a ground under the truck. So had to release the bolts and make some wiggling and kicking with a piece of steel stock and a hammer and forgot what else). The transmission in my truck is T1078 5-speed I belive. Very similar to your 6-speed. So I too expect you also having 14" clutch. Bad thing I did I didn't describe the way I solved my issue in that original thread. If so I wouldn't need typing all this now. But as it usually happens current affairs take you off a subject. Vlad

Thanks for suggestions guys. I'm going to be the only driver and I expect no drivers at all for no less than a year yet. Since the truck is currently in parts.

Yup, definitely. Just missed that thread to the moment. Interesting truck BTW. That 1st one with the loader. Tandem B-67 with concave cab and alu nose. The one on the picture above is more a parts set already on my mind.

Welcome to the forum! Indeed you have a rare Mack which (I too hope) will also be nice looking when you add the elbow grease to it in the required amount. As I remember alu nose B67's existed but definitely were very few in number. I don't see much to add to the cutoff/ratio discussion. Indeed as more considerations are put into the subject as less time and money consuming story it will turn into. Ok, one point I haven't heard from the croud so far. It seems worth starting the engine and maybe fix the brakes to the condition for making the truck yard driving. You may find out alot of new info that way. Good luck on the project! Vlad

I'm with you on the approach. Better to have reserve. Especially the conversion doesn't seem worth consuming. I'm just not familiar with ceramic clutches really much. And expect they may have a downside in relation to organic ones too.

Which one?

Couldn't see the strap at first since expected it holding the sleeper to the chassis. Not to the cab LOL As I can see from the pic (I only see that pic above, no access to Facebook), there's a cut off added to the frame overlapping the rails. Wonder is that a B-73/75 or B-615 with short hood but alu radiator? Just a matter of interest though.

Damn, I was going to ask how could you get the engine into the cab?? Ok, I also have a DM but probably have never taken the dog house away. Nice thing about your truck is it's steel dash. At least it's on my taste and I just forgot the fact. And I don't feel guilty now for not paying attention to the thread for a while, read all the pages I missed in the last couple of months. So wishes of good luck on the progress whatever it will be the hood, tranny, steering gear... And sure pictures

Fresh paint is sexy! Keep on going!

I understand about the rivets. In some cases I just draw scatches and order rivets made by lathe. Than press them down in place with an arbour press. Sure headache or a whole entertainment but such sitiations occure once in a year or two so I can live with that. Also your point of slow gearing in a truck allowing to baby the clutch under normal road conditions makes me thinking I may stay with the stock disc. The linings are Mack brand and I hope for them to at least make the job they were designed and made for. And I don't plan carrying any loads the truck was supposed to when was built.

Great stuff, thanks for sharing! That tandem AC (or AP) with trench digger picture is unbelivable. It always impresses me deeply how huge tasks were solved in America by technology of those times.

Nice looking truck and interesting convertion. May I toss a question in the ring? What did you do (if any) with rear engine mounts? I mean did you need to move the transmission forward or it kept its place and the rear of the E9 suited the place where the rear of 285 was? I expect the V8 block to be shorter than the 6-inline.

Thanks. I just have very similar disc for my Lanova engine. Could locate NOS organic linings made in 1945 and a set of original brass rivets. Fitted them on but disliked the way rivets formed their shape being cracked into 3 pieces instead of making smooth funnels. The rivets will probably hold in place well but your setup brings idea of taking a set of ceramic pads off a modern truck clutch disc and fit them onto my vintage one. Don't know how smooth it would operate though. But the engine is 131hp only, not as powerfull as 237.

Definitely. And no cab tilt for access.

So did they "just" rivited ceramic plates of the thickness new organic ones should be taking place and all turned out fine? Interesting convertion.

There's also well-known Dutch trucker singer. He's also not a singer only but a driver. Henk Wijngaard, can be heard on You Tube too. He sings in Dutch the most but you English speakers may understand at least more than I do. https://www.google.com/search?q=het+zwarte+asfalt&sca_esv=02e7e5700812ee97&ei=ZofUZ-D0IJ3TwPAPnpu0qA8&oq=het+zwarte+asphalt&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiEmhldCB6d2FydGUgYXNwaGFsdCoCCAAyCBAAGLADGO8FMggQABiwAxjvBTIIEAAYsAMY7wUyCBAAGLADGO8FMgsQABiABBiwAxiiBEixHlAAWABwAXgAkAEAmAEAoAEAqgEAuAEByAEAmAIBoAIWmAMAiAYBkAYFkgcBMaAHALIHALgHAA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:3db47aa0,vid:kek1E509iOo,st:0

CH has different chassis, straight rails. Same style went further to CX and some Granites I belive. CL frame rails are interchangeable with 2nd generation RW Superliner and MH Ultraliner. If I'm not wrong there were no Ultraliners with tall 700 series rails, at least there were no MH700 series in the production line. RW rails were made both 600 (1/4 thick) and 700 (3/8) but those may have shorter front end to be used in CL since RW in standard configuration doesn't have offset front bumper. And one more tip. I once contacted Global Truck Traders guys in MA and they had quite good and long used CL frame. I'm afraid 3 or so years passed since that but may be worth making a call.

Welcome to the forum! If I remember right there were a few threads posted in the past regarding Mack buses on here. So working with the site search tool may bring some results. There wouldn't be an answer for the exact year. But possibly info which leads to a certan time frame. And yes, we all like to see pictures of old Macks! Vlad

I'm glad to be of service, Jojo. Indeed, my position allows me to see and show things from different angles. So I do that when I can. At the same time I'm not in a centre of the Mack land. And see much less overall from where I'm sitting. But BMT is the perfect window to look through so I'm also thankful to folks who post on here.

Intersting. Please post more if you put your hands on a Magnum some day. I like the look of those high towers with air suspended cab. Here we have many cruising the roads. Renault branded and usualy with variations of E7 - ASET or E-tech. Some older ones had inline-6 Renault engine and a few are still around with E9-520 mechanical or E9-560 V-mac (or so) with hydraulically controlled injection advance. But fewer and fewer every year, due to the costs of spares for a E9. From time to time a desire pops up in my mind to buy one of those but with amounts of iron I already have I stop myself from that. But those trucks are all Renault chassis and a single drive axle in 99% cases. Only once a V8-500 tractor was for sale with tandem drives but way more expensive than I would give for a hobby truck. And once I saw a similar one parked in the street. Even not sure if that was the same rig. Also dark blue in color.

My vote is the third from the top raw left and right images. If anybody is interested in it The original work paint scheme may worth reproducing if has any santimental walue to you. Or may be bringing memories to others and you like to please those folks. There may be a variation of that approach as I finally decided to do with my R-model. I kept original appearance in general (the color and colors of stripes) but modified it and made more complicate. And switched to metallic. That was made after I learned many people knew the truck in its older days but that look appeared too simple and uninteresting to me.

BTW a question. Don't you know any Aussie Magnums (Renault Magnums) were assembled on CH chassis too? Or Renault rails only?

Cool job and interesting truck on my mind. Sorry no help with ABS connections from my side.

BTW the horns assembly is very similar to what was used on B-models fitted onto roof. The difference is the attachment bracket. B-model has it at a side if relate to those on the picture. So the horns are left and right when on a roof.

Hi Harry, Those are original to the truck. And the electric air valve seems too. The horns are Bendix-Westinghouse. And the truck was made in 1944 (or 1943 - shame on me but I'm always forgetting the exact date).