Vladislav

Impossible to belive a mother-nature made that! Ok, mother-nature in cooperation with Budd. Or Alcoa?

Excepting you This always gets to my mind when I start thinking on using any metric thing in Mack which I have plenty of handy. Prefere to keep SAE when original.

Once i removed the change valve on the stick for rebuild. Found out its function was to allow air to pass from one pipe (port) to the other and than block the passage when you make a shift. Dont remember up or down position. The valve itself conteins a pair of O-rings, still plate you move with the knob to open or block the passage and nothing else. i fixed my one from leaking no problem. Of the pipe arrangement I also didn't mark them so had to figure out. As I remember I just put them both ways. In one case the gearbox range was shifting and in the other it didn't.

Thank you Paul! Surprizingly I can read that

I double that! Good luck on the progress.

Nice looking RW. I doubt they will pick up the money asked. But being a rare beast there as said above it would worth some good $$ indeed.

Many thanks for all the kind words gentlemen! With so many wishes I feel I should live no less than a hundred years just to be thankful enough for your care A really pleasure to feel as a part of the crue! The BBQing went well. Pork and ram beef made the deal.

Thank you guys! It was a really nice day here, lot of sun and quite warm, finally after long months of winter cold. Spent some lazy time tinkering with new antenna for my Cobra CB. Completed some current deals. Was even going to take the motorbike for a ride for the first time this year but needed to take off some stuff from the storage place first so I passed it at the time. A barbequeing is planned for tomorrow.

Best wishes Mike!

The cost was a steal. And something around $150-200 would be quite reasonable nowadays.

Have a Great Day Tom! Best wishes!

How the whole frame work is going on? Currently I'm tinkering with the idea to fabricate a pair of new Neway crossmembers for my R-model. They're are simple of their shape and could be cut and bent of thick sheet matel in a metal shop. Suppose that would be better than using the original ones which have terrible rust spread. And also i could do a part of prep job on the frame before finally parting out the truck.

I would like too. The diagram you can get by the link is for early R-models. Many connections look the same there but many differences could be found with late 80's trucks. Vlad

When use any stainless part in contact with common steel corrosion goes pretty fast ovet the steel. That's because of different metals in contact, the same as when aluminium and steel and so on. So if you put SS part on a truck you better insulate it from contacting with steel by plastic or other non-metal part. Not good for a really tough mount in many cases but you will see fresh rust after the paint is worn or cracked otherwise.

Strange thing the truck is so rusty in many spots such as dash instrument chrome rings, door panels inside and what looked worse the frame rails. If all that grew up during the storage I doubt the crank will made a turn.

Some pics would take much more attention to your listing. Vlad

Those don't look likw a R-model Lund visor. And once in the distant past we discussed some wrong visors of about that kind on ebay. So if anybody is going to make the purchase a double check worth to be made.

I like the color the size And the color looks good too. Any plans for inner insulation?

Cool looking truck! I'm also a stock look liker and Brokway is not an exception. But I too like how that particular one looks. And on a side note I mentioned many times that Macks are scarce in Russia. But if you say Brokway nobody would probably even trust you such brand does exist!

My first thought was a flooding. Wish it will never repeat.

Sounds like a plan The cab on the Mack looks solid on the pics. If you don't go with Detroit Mack END-673 and many other later Mack straight six engines would fit the chassis as a directy swap. Don't know about the chassis brackets but the originals are too probably there. I also keep my eye on a H-model but having enough of projects at the moment and also being far away that's not what I'd expect to pop up as a deal in the distant future. Will keep my attention to your progress.

R and U had the rails the same if we mean R400 and R600. R700 has higher rail section and different front spring mounting brackets being removed backwards to accomodate longer hood (engine) RD with RB also had higher section and fatter steel than a basic R but the same general frame shape. Same spread and lowering of the section to the front. DM has its own frame style with its special front end (not like a R) and deep center behind the cab for greater capacity. F model had its own frame, not similar to a R or DM. RW2 together with MH and CL (not CH/CX) have their special chassis with "art" siluette of the frond rail ends looking from the side. Easy to figure out what I mean looking at any pic of a RW2 with the hood open. RW2 and MH also utilizes similar front spring mounting brackets, battery boxes together with front air tanks, fuel tank brackets and even the steering gerar setup. The front axles were also similar excepting particular load ratings of the beams and springs. Both had a standard higth of section and thickness (RW600, MH600) and larger numbers for RW700 and MH600 as an option. Aluminium rails could be used but those were bolted to the standard steel front section of the chassis. CL frame looks similar at the front but spring mounts are different because of the set back axle relating to RW/MH. CH is almost another story with straight rails front to back. Probably interchangable with Visions CX up to 2004 when Vovlo frames took the place. RS700 and RS600 Western Valueliners (including Macungie ones as I got figured out) had their special chassis with constant section straight rails front to back. Could be aluminium as an option. Don't know the section higth and distance between the rails but suppose the last was the same as Eastern R's had at their back end. RW1 Hayward together with WS Cruiseliner Western models utilized similar frames. The speciality was split design when the front part of the rails was an independent unit bolted to the pair of straight rails right behind the cab on a WS and below it on RW1. Another especiallity of those models was a steering gear mounted on the front axle beam, not the frame rail. Don't know much about B-models excepting their frames had nothing common with a R and there were different desgns depending on load capacity. Too probably some other models of Macks of those years utilized similar frame style. Can tell H63/67 were different but nothing above it.

The truck looks like it has potential. The 1st thing which comes to the mind is you have some ambitions to bring it to life. But I hope many parts were included with it, right? And as other mentioned above you could fill up the empty spots using old iron from different model Macks of the ages. Good luck on the project. Vlad

Many thanks for the facts. Really interesting to learn. It's difficult to imagine nowadays the things went such ways in the past. And the most everything seem as through pink glasses when were far away and long days ago. A man use to feel he is the only parson having troubles. Everybody else are absolutely happy just enjoying the life

Slack adjusters are actually the levers when the chambers act on them to lock the brakes. The largest forse applied to the S-cam is when the lever's length is the greatest. For the slacks it means when they are perpendicular to the chamber rods. The most forse is required to press the shoes finally, at the end of their travel. So with the correct settings the slacks should be at the right angle to the rods with the brakes fully applied. And if you see they don't the way of correction is turning the clevse to obtain better position on the rod and than readjust the slack adjuster. Here a trouble might be found if the rod has excessive length not allowing the clevse to back up enough (if you need it off the slack and to the chamber). And the rod should be cutted.