Vladislav

All those finds seems treasuries. And Mack firetruck is beauty. Or a beasty. No matter, it just brings emotions

Great pics, really enjoyed to see. Along the bike fest report I was impresed with the tree through the roof shot. BTW was all the show dated to St Patric's day? And I'm just afraid to ask on the matter of your new avatar meaning

There were EM6, EM7 and even EM9 Maxidynes. I just not sure were there EM-6 with 4 valve heads.

Best B-day wishes! Hope no scratches or flaws today

3.Torque adjusting nut (while turning wheel) to 50 lb.ft 4.Loosen adjusting nut as needed to align the adjusting-nut pin with a hole with anti-rotate thing When loosening the adjusting the nut at the last step you get the bearings free a little bit. For hub bearings that snug is used to compensate a parts heat "biggereizening". And this is typical for hub bearings mostly, probably because they have high spinning speeds or cool up less efficient than gearbox or differential ones having no such extensive oil circulation. I can't tell the reason for sure right at the moment. Bearings you fit with preload is alomost another story when assembling. First of all you must have a distant tube to put between the inner races to stop the outer bearing from going in. You need to put a load (the preload) on it so it shouldn't be movable inwards. The tube could be of a hard desingn and you grind it into the size or add shims to make longer when setting preload. Or it could be deformable (usually on cars) so you're torqueing up the nut until a sertain number of lbsft to deform it sufficient to get a correct preload. This style of a bearing unit is usually utilized in carrier pinion assembly. And you don't need a lock nut in those cases since you torque the (only) nut up to stopping against the outer bearing inner race. Which itself stops against the distance tube, which stops to the inner bearing inner race and than to the sfaft's step you put the inner bearing up to when installing. So you tight up the nut really hard with no need to lock it additionally. Just secure with a wire or a stich press from vibration. Slack bearings fit is another story. You put the ajusting (1st) nut slightly loosy (turning it back for a couple of washer notches for example). This way the nut has no lock from turning off. So the 2nd (lock) nut is applied. Or the 1st one could be made a way to be lockable itself. For example it could be made with a split and a lock screw to tighten it up over the shaft.

Permanent magnets became much more efficient in the recent years. That's also the reason modern loudspeakers utilize magnets of much lesser size than before.

It's KHA 5444 P10 on CRD93. I have another one of the same time frame but that one is impossible to read. But I can tell for sure there's also P10 in the end. The banjo stamping is 1QF51218P6 S441C, just for some reason.

What kind of hub bearings preload are you talking about guys? There's no preload, there's slack.

Google Renault Midliner, thoser cylinders must be the same. But overseas purchasing might be involved and some parts lists might be found written in French

Larry, air in our world is still for free, right?

Any luck recieving them felts? I tried googling 2795-120002138L and 2795-120002137R but saw neither results.

A quick question - does anybody have CRD92/93 carrier parts list handy? Beeing needing to identify the bearing cups (races) of the ones the interwheel differential turns in. Are they Mack 64AX176/46AX177 and Timken/SKF/Bower 47622W / 47622BW ? Or different? Just dont want to part out a carrier with only a reason to recognize the bearings. Thanks in advance, Vlad

Looks like the same to BMT this time. Hope he's allright and get back imbalancing pictures soon.

My WW2 military Mack manual tells turn the nut tight, try spinning the wheel than turn tight again. After that make the nut loose getting 3 notches back. That's about 1/6 of the turn on the particular truck. From my practice (with cars and small trucks) when you set the 1st nut you may feel slack. But after you put and tight up the lock nut it gets away. The matter of the event is when you force the wheel to move it forces the 1st nut (without the lock nut at the time) to go out. And it stops against the spindle thread. But when you put the 2nd nut tight side by side to the 1st one the latter is forsed to go in. As long as the tread slack allows. It's sure small but usually enough to drop your original slack to zero. So I use to set the slack a bit larger than I would prefere and later find it tiny when the lock nut is on.

Yes, would be interesting to bring it back to its original glory look see how it looks nowadays. Thank you for sharing the pic. Vlad

Wow Jim! Looks like I am a rookie in relation to how you track down E-models. Nice to see the truck is still alive, right?

There was a post on here of an old man trying to sell his EJ wrecker project. A long while back, 5 or 6 years ago. Looks like the same truck but with some progress along the story. And from observing the running boards I 'd suspect it was a firetruck in its earlier days.

Check out the other side of the axle beam. There should be FA and so on. I'd expect seeing FA W538 14000lb on your truck but this could vary. Vlad

Wow! Those beautiful scenaries once again. I'm in love! The only thing I feel strange is the cab of the truck on the last picture was set really high off the ground

I like the way the truck was freshened up. New paint on the rims and hubs but overall original condition with traces of its age. Pretty sure alot of mechanical overhaul was also made to keep it running.

Happy Birthday! Hope the weather in Indiana is quite good for selebration.

This hobby is so nice to do becase it takes you to pass plenty of difficulties which requires and shows out the best of your craftmanship. And maybe that little loss will protect you from something bigger in the future. Good luck on calming down and continue

Happy Birthday Hat! Don't know how the weather is good to fish right at the moment but I think a good fish restaurant would work too.

Yes, that does look like. Just difficult to tell which one. There were different models with different displacements. Which model of Mack truck did those parts come from?

You just put "1" or "+1" before the number when you call to the States. Might be needing to dial some numbers to get an international access from your local telephone net, I don't know. Just do the way you do for any international call (or text) using 1 for the country code.