Vladislav

Don't forget to reproduce the lower corner split on the bottoms of the door panels. Those areas are straight against the cab reinforcement plates and really tight. I got my door unable to close with the newly fabricated panel because the upholstery guy "slacked" on the size of the "triangle" and made it less than it should be.

I personally would prefere just one drive axle longer

I got exactly the same issue just a couple of weeks back. It was with my 4x4 when I switched the wheels from summer ones (off-road) to the winters. Those big ones 33x12.5 had more off-set so when I put the jack it was back of the tyre. But when I tried to install the whinter wheel with normal off-set I got I against the jack. Needed a couple of minutes to figure out why I couldn't fit it on the center of the hub. I such cases I use to say it's better when you have an issue resolved such easy way, no matter how much of time and efforts you spent. I mean in relation to possible really hard issue.

I suppose that is the reason he still has it for sale. Here are couple of pics from the previous add we have discussed in the past. Note the dates on them.

Didn't know that. I thought both were owned by Gary Mahan.

I suppose those ones you saw in Ukraine were KrAZ trucks. Cool looking units designed in the late 50's. Still plenty of them in operation in Ukraine and Russia. Interesting fact that they got their basic design from military Macks model NR which were supplied to Soviet Union under Lend-Lease during WW2.

Yes, they did. But they sure were/are located in Europe, Austria BTW Austria is NOT Australia.

The tanker is cool one! Mack was for sale in the past. Seems overpriced. But you know a truck costs as much as anybody wants to pay for it. So might be someone is currently dreaming to get it.

I got about a same issue in the past. The rims on my WW2 Mack are of the same design as yours with a difference they are 24's. When I was buying the spare truck in Holland from my friend I wanted to combine the wheels to get a set of good ones. He had some of but we had to remove them from the other truck in his shed. Once I pointed out one of the good thread wheels he explained me that the wheel was a "strange one". It could fit as a front or an outside one but doesn't go on the hub to be used as an inner. He supposed it was off a B-model or anything else. Just a case there were two different styles of a 24 inch tube rim. It had a bit different design of the lock ring either. Finally I kept it because of the tyre and now I have to go to Holland one more time for a correct rim to assemble the spare for my truck. Fortunately it is not a hot need. Those original ones I sandblasted and painted. And the hubs either. When installing I although needed no scrapping of paint off the hubs but got the rims on nearly free, with almost no paint scratching along the travel. Did it easy and smooth though, applying grease on the hubs. Actually we put a piece of thin plywood on the floor and stand a wheel on it against a hub. Than elevated the hub with a jack to level it. And than carefully slid the wheel with the plywood to get it right on the hub. Did it 3 men and got no more than 1 or 2 minor paint chips off. The rims went on almost free, moreover, with a minor gap. All blasted, primered and painted, as I already noted above.

Welcome to the forum! Vlad

Worth to be saved at least on your hard disk.

I once did it that way either and got no lights. Found out the swich burned. Connected the wires right on it to light the low beam and made the rest of the way.

Probably your low ride highway cruisers are relatively snow-friendly. Once I drove my buddie's Yamaha Drag Star 1300 but never did it off a pavement. As of my experience my Honda VFR800 sport turer just gets horizontal after you try to start on wet clay or snow and ice. If you are catched up with a rain in a middle of grassy field you better get out to a paved road ASAP. Probably it's a matter of heigth of the center of gravity.

That's one impressive thing you found the ability to fabricate.

The radiator (the original one) appears to me as a AC-1, with belt-driven fan.

I was not serious on that matter

Neat picture. I like the AC. Would be nice to bring it back to life. And looks like someone started to install air conditioning on it. Or did you mean exactly that when titled the thread "AC logger"?

I would be more glad if they delete the transfer case range monitoring system (the electric shifter) and bring back the lever. It would decrease the cost and both decrease fixing costs and headaches. When I visited Stayer-Puch museum in the city of Graz in Austria (the place where the factory of production of these units is located) there was G dump truck on a display. Probably was built in early 90's and never reached serial production. That's a kind of funny factory by some point. They produced the line of vehicles particulary starting from the army and commercial Styer trucks to European assembled Jeep Cheerokee and Chrysler PT cruiser equipped with Daimler-Benz diesel engines. All Mercedes 4-matic 4x4 cars along with VW Caravella Synchro and VW Golf Country (in its production years) were made there either. Just forgot to add, their initial production products were bicycles and later motorcycles. Small amounts of production, premium-quality materials and high market costs as the follow. Seems like they feel good with all that.

I also noted Mike's inactiveness. Hope everything is Ok and he's just busy with rutine affairs.

Looks like the road was slippery a bit closer to the end of the ride. Don't know how it was easy for you but seeing the smiles on your faces I suppose it was Ok.

When the very first McDonald's was opened in Moscow in 1989, a hamburger and cheeseburger cost 3 Roubles apiece. And bigmac was 5. I suppose the government rated Rouble officially as 0.96R to 1 Dollar those days. Sure nobody could change them that way. People would pay 30 Roubles per one American Dollar and there probably still jail was for such a business. Anyway one trip to Mc with a girlfriend worth nearly 25 Roubles to spend (for me). And it was far ways off nice with an avarage income of 250 Roubles a month in the city. I was a schoolboy those days, was modelbuilding "commercially" and dreaming for a Mack.

You ain't right on that. The rear tyres are new. And it has loudspeakers.

B87 75 units made??? Never thought they are that rare.

Don't try to wirebrish and scratch you chassis all over. If you haven't found the numbers on the right frame rail (outside) above the front axle you will find nothing else. Just a case the new rails installed in the past you got. The same with me. One of my R688's has neither of stamped on the frame and almost nothing else excepting the tag on the cab. So if you're hoping to track down the truck's specifications the tag you have might not be a real hard source. Just because nobody is 100% sure that's from the factory. This way you should rely on just the physical objectives of your rig. Measuring the frame rail thickness and heigth you can determine its rating. The front axle could be identified by the marks on it as said above. The same with the rears with additional factors that you can determine their ratings (and the ratio's) by observing their look. The site is helpful with all that. Just don't feel wrong asking and supply requests with pics for easier recognizing. It's not a new truck so not much of real help from dealership folks. But on the other hand you didn't spend $100,000 purchasing it and aren't going to mess much with modern electronic "highly efficient nightmare".

This too makes sence. Not nice to hear though. At least now I know the matter of the fact. There is another interesting point in that story. Although Watts Mack couldn't track down my VIN's, one of the members on here once helped me locating some parts. He made it through another dealer and informed me they could see the truck in the system. Unfortunately I couldn't contact that dealer to get the production info. So my question is - if anybody on here has access to Mack programm, I would be too likely to get the factory specifications on my trucks. The VIN's are 2M2N187y8KC026171 and 2M2N187Y8KC026172.