Vladislav

Oh, no, guys, not this time. You sure would intrigue me but currently I try to tackle up a deal which requires JUST a half long way to the Bering strait. The beasty is 6x6 either but seems like someone (in the States?) converted that poor RD from a road truck. The engine is off and put into another vehicle but the cab is decent. Plus bunch of other parts I would cry in the nights (sometimes) if miss.

Beautiful scenery and the nice picture. And it's also nice when you're able to catch up a moment to enjoy while at work. How it was possible to load the same weight in both boxes? They look of different sizes and ride on different wheel setup.

Pretty interesting thing. And there could a beautiful show car transporter be build of it. But on my mind the boss is right. You must have too much of balls too many eggs in a busket to complete that project. Thank you for sharing the links with the description.

My paint guy told me to not apply chemicals on the fiberglass and I didn't try sandblasting having my own. So I bought excentrical sander and have it mostly done. Although stress cracks that were mentioned above took way more of a labour than removing the paint layers. The hood itself cost me nearly $350 locally and to the moment I've spent nearly two working weeks together with a helper to get it ready to go to the paint shop.

I would put two component glass wool filled body filler to work out deep pits. Or just a common "soft" filler if the lay isn't thick. Although on my mind when you redo an old rig it's nice when it will have some traces of its age. Something like a kind of its history.

Guys, thanks alot for the extended explanations. Always something to learn. Paul, that Hayes is impressive. Together with the trailer and the story

Paul, I can belive to about anything you say. But this time it seems you're kidding. At least I see no other fuel tanks on that beast. And who the hell cools drum brakes with water?? What is that? KW or Sterling? Cool pictures.

That's not bad. Hope and wish you'll be able to keep on moving. Glad to hear you've got the progress!

The trailer looks as a candy! Now the ramps are a kind of a key to make it useable Great job!

Great picture and a nice B ! Thank you for sharing.

Sh*t! That story sends shivers up and down my spine. Still wonder how could you start the engine while sliding sidewards along the road. Too glad to hear the turnout was good.

Nice truck as it looks to me. But difficult to estimate the amount of work it really needs.

Jim, I suppose a bit of file work would convert a common strip into such an unique one.

Turn the nut, Larry. If the 237 get a rod out you always may put E6-350 in your truck. Oh, no, you might need to move the radiator forward a bit for air-to-air... Nevermind. All that is a kid's game in relation to air start installing

Tell to the owner to keep those original double square's if he put round ones on the truck. There could be a bunch of folks interested in getting them. Starting from me

I hope that will NOT be soon. Otherwise the world will finally lost the most attractive-looking trucks

One rare beast. Worth some tongue twisting if the owner is contactable for discussions.

Hi, Neat looking Ultraliner you have! Currently I'm in a process of freshening up my MH613 with e6-350. But that's in a different part of the globe. Would be interesting to see some views of the front end of the chassis and others from under the cab of your truck. Aussie-built ones differ much from Americans. Vlad

Looks fresh. I wish you many miles with it.

Just wonder how that red thing looks exotic on American highways? Suppose it takes some folks' head turning. And sure it's a pleasure to drive. At least if you can accept COE at all.

R-model pre-82 (short) hood length it 53-3/8 The width I'm not ready to state exactly. Close to 2.5 meters but no more. I'd bet 2.3-2.4 m. The hegth is currently unknown to me. Something like 1 meter. The weight is nearly 100-120 kilograms since two men can carry it hard. Three is much better. And four carried it right today for nearly 100 meters with no stops

You are on the ONLY right way if you're going to run your truck well. If mechanics call themselves as they do it doesn't mean they know the matters. And when they ruin a vehicle a customer usually doesn't have a clue to fix the case up. In theory you don't need to undersize the shaft to the exact figures. You may just undersize it to the grade the wear is gone. Then measure it and fabricate new bearings of brass/bronze stock of the size you made your shaft. If you can get factory bearings and keep the correct under sizes it sure would be better. Good luck on your adventure. Vlad

By the word a nice Mercedes car is going to push that bus in its back. I do belive 230/250/280SL W113 "Pagoda".

Almost as said above. Fuse up everything you can to be safe Just try to keep the original (or close to original) look when possible.

Once I googled sources on aluminium round tanks and found out a company which supplied separate parts such as round bottoms, inlet necks and so on. I didn't check out the costs since the company was Aussie. If it was the US I'd order them four bottoms to weld tanks locally. OZ is a way too difficult and costy to import to my location. As for steel ones (and they are original to your nice R) I'd go a rebulid path fabricating new skins of sheet metal with original bottoms and steps. Not extremely much of a labour. It might worth to sandblast the inner sides of the parts you keep original and repair damages before get everything back together. Here's what I recently made to the pair of Mack MH steel tanks. As you can see the "dirt collector" lower can took some weld up after being blasted and showed out the need of. Vlad