Vladislav

After reading that I wouldn't mind any sealing of the new tank. Just put it on and be happy. On the other hand (my usual thrifty approach) I see no principal troubles cleaning the old tank and use it. Algae is not corrosion so can be separated off the walls. I'm not almost sure on the principal of its build up but as long as we concluded the origin is penetration of humidity into the alcahol that means we deal with water of some kind. If so the derbits could be products of aluminium corrosion (what is doubtful) or organic reactions in the water. If so you should clean it with stuff which dissolve fat or other organical dirt. Something of what is used to clean clogged kitchen sunk. Sure after test application on another aluminium part.

That idea of putting epoxy sealer (not a DD screamer) into the new tank was floating over my mind. And I didn't point that out since in a case you have a clean brand new tank the straight simple way just installing it seemed very attractive. But on the other hand considering options and adding some reasonable amount of efforts into a deal could pay off in the future. I don't see any issues applying sealer to a new alu tank. Sure you should check out the particular compound on its applyability to alu. Also you better degrease the inside of the tank with suitable degriaser before sealing and be sure that light evaporating stuff to not poison your breath of make big boom. On the other hand from those arguments above the worry of use alu tank for gas is water which could get collected in the fuel because of alcohol. But I guess water wouldn't affect aluminium really fast even being poured clean right into the tank. So adding fuel stabilizer and not allowing old gas to take place for a long while should secure you quite enough from notable tank inside corrosion.

BTW you seldom see such fashiony looking trucks on a road in Europe. The most countries in the central part such as Germany, France, Belgium usually operate single axle units with middle rise cabs of single white or red color or so. I bet those on the pictures were imported from Scandinavia. Icey roads and heavier allowed weights predict the 2nd drive (or tag) axle and attractive look prevails over cost savings. Bullbars (or elk bars?) are a common thing too.

A candy! A pleasure to look at!

I have opened heated Bulldog mirror apart once or twice. Don't remember seeing any separatable heating elements. As I remember the heater was glued up to the back side of the glass or integrated another way.

I think that's colors of a certain spedition in PA or OH. Very clean looking MH indeed.

Tom, many thanks! I have already had this one in my 'puter but as we say there can never be too many trucks! The one on the picture is the most probably R688 with thar R700 big grille installed. For some reason SGT R-models didn't have classic later R-model grill installed at all or had the appearance as on this picture. Speaking the tanks there were two of them at each side. The main one was that long so had to be hanged by 4 brackets. That's a factory configuration tank but probably the longest avalible option. The 2nd set was for fuel. I tell that by a point which was mentioned in a build sheet for my truck. Two additional aluminium fuel tanks of certain amount of gallons were specified. What's interesting my truck, along the 4 others imported to Russia as a bunch, had those tanks specified in the build sheets but never had them installed for some reason. I could see the mounting holes pre-drilled in the rails but no appearance of any brackets ever attached to there.

My guess is the most observers would "not see the forest because of trees" in the particular case.

Those are cool looking units. And looks like they suited the sevices very well. Definitely different principals in design and different engeneering and trucking culture. But that must be cool when you have choices.

Very interesting info, Paul. Always cool to learn facts about your country. Many differences to what I used to be living in. But sure the basic things are understandable since the most humans are supposed to think similar ways. Putting aside some doubts on that we may have found from time to time. That must be cool entertainment riding a tank off-road. I had luck driving big tracked artillery tractor once. Generally in a lap deep mud over a nearly 2 km loupe. But had to attend military education cource in my university. Mostly for that mentioned reason

Wonder what was the reason? Don't they want for general public to own an armored vehicle? Here some kind of that matter takes place. A friend of mine owns WW2 German half track armored transporter. But its side sheets have 4 big holes cut at each side which were welded up with thin (common) sheet metal. That way the rig keeps historical appearance but can't be used by its original purpose. Sure the gun is inoperational. Cut in the barrel or so.

Sludge is removable. And if you even have a new tank it can build up from poor condition fuel. Or otherwise from super-puper efficient additives in it. Which don't do any bad if burned in time but may bring unexpected surprizes keeping their presence in a tank for a while.

What you showed in the alu pan doesn't look like rust chips. So my guess the things are much better than I expected. There's probably no need to sandblast or gravel wash the inside. Just some heavy cleaning agent of those the guys mentioned and you must be fine. My issues were concerning heavy rust on the inner walls which chipped off and clogged filters or needle valve and duses in carbs. I have friend's Mercedes 280CE car of 1972 in my stable for a while and it used to ruine electric fuel pumps. When we removed its tank initially and my guys drained it I couldn't belive my eyes. There was a 10 liter can filled with gas which was HALF FULL of rust chips! We sure cleaned the tank as good as we could that time but the pumps have continued giving up the goasts. So I found a good replacement one and going to swap it. Ok, I'm going to do that for no less than 6 years now

I'm afraid the way Fuzzy Buzzard adviced is the most right direction. You can remove the tank yourself putting a stack of pallets below it to loose the straps and land it down onto. Than you will need help to pull it off from there on the ground and for further relocations during the upcoming care. A cement mixer or tractor drive wheel idea seems more productive to me than hand shaking and else. There's also way to cut off a portion from the rear (unseen) wall to sandblast the inside. Could be a bottom (end bottom I mean) either but depending on who's going to weld it back up and how would you sure on their skills making good looking seam. A side idea is you may put some portable small tank for example in the luggage compartment below the sleeper and connect it to the system keeping the original tank just for look. This way you'd get the truck running reliably and 10-15 gallons might be enough for locals drives. Getting to the main tank repair later. The issue is we seldom get back to back burner deals soon.

Thank you, Joey! And I belive Tom also had his day just the other day. I just must have missed it with current hectic affairs.

I had someone

The truck does look darn good in your drive way Tom! Congrats! Usually my feelings in such a case are high exciting right after purchase than light dissappointment on the day after with a thought of "What have I bought that thing for?" Than usually the things and thoughts get in order a few days later with no sorries on the done.

Looks like he does. Really nice looking truck. And the configuration is also cool. Taking to account the worth of jobs invested the offer may be seen as quite an attractive deal. Also I guess flea-bay would grab his share of the pie so going a side way may make the expences fewer. Thanks for posting.

Sounds like great news! And right in the time. Zina wouldn't need to wait for the Nissan to has been fixed.

May be quite a while for a gasser

Well, after Hippy's comment I figured out which B-model that was. Great looking truck. I remembered the moment but almost forgot the background. Many thanks for the picture. Ummm... I don't mean the ice cream cone one.

F600's had chassis rails of the shape similar to a R-model. F700's had their special rails but I observed the later years truck only. So would be cool (to me) to learn which style early F700 had (if they were existed at all?) Of possible cases popping up in my mind could be the same rails as on the late F700's, possibly RD rails (same front end shape as an R but with higher section) or just F600 (R600) rails with inner channels. The truck in the add must be a cool animal with V8 screamer. My personal preference is Mack engines in a Mack truck but two strokers is exotic overhere. Don't even remember of any running truck in the country with a two-stroke Detroit.

Doesn't sound like a nice chain of events. I'm not ready to choose the best comment of to not go to Home Depot at all or to not drive a Nissan or any other. One thing is for sure if Zina wanted flowers you should go and make the purchase. ̷A̷n̷d̷ ̷I̷ ̷g̷u̷e̷s̷s̷ ̷s̷o̷m̷e̷ ̷f̷l̷o̷w̷e̷r̷s̷ ̷c̷o̷s̷t̷ ̷l̷e̷s̷s̷ ̷t̷h̷a̷n̷ ̷a̷n̷ ̷o̷l̷d̷ ̷I̷H̷ ̷t̷r̷u̷c̷k̷ Hope the warranty deal will go smooth.

Isn't that a F600? I honestly am not a specialist. But those tortion bar attachments below the headlight panels give me that thought. I can't see the other pics to check out the frame rail shape though.

My only thought is when the truck was produced they didn't expect it running faster than 35. Or maybe they saw that possible ocassionally and that is why the shaft has kept its place on the truck, not on the ground. Speaking the expences it may be seen as you threw some coins into the shaft repair instead of having a zero worth truck. As long as you could not drive it anymore. And now with the new shaft you can. It seems though we are hijacking Tom's thread. Regardless the subject has some relation to it.