Vladislav

Do you mean those studs are just put into equalizers, not turned into a threaded hole in it? Do you torch the tube to get the pin off either?

I've got the extra set of Neway rears for the R-model and start prepairing them to obtain a better shape. Every beam has a stud on the end to attach a traverse. Mines aren't nice about threads. Does anybody knows how to turn them off? It seems like some kind of pin is pressed into the beam's body to lock the stud from turning. Should I try to press it out or maybe drill through? More questions. I noted in two beams the studs are longer than in the other two. It seems strange to me since all 4 beams are from the same vehicle and I noted nothing different in the way the travese beams are attached on the both FR and RR axles. And are those studs avalible for sale? Or are they common ones and I may just order them in a machine shop?

That's pretty funny! Someone was thinking those chains help him

UP20510 are chome steel. I've bought a set this past summer from Big Rig Chrome Shop and they supplied them with no problem.

I once had such an issue and found out (with a help of this forum folks) that my trolley valve lever was moved a bit. I was surprized that lever could do anything to the truck with no trailer but it lightened up my brake lights instantly.

Didn't wait to see it for that cheap. Doesnt look too bad for the cost.

The small ones United Pacific #20510 for Pete have a perfect match to the small gauges. Can't tell anything about the speedo and tacho though.

That's one great article, thank you for sharing that Paul. I can imagine how many folks felt heart beat watching Superliner anounced. And it's nice how they put the picture with the truck larger and larger from the first page to the every next one. Unfortunately I wasn't able to put my hand onto such a magazine in 1977 although I remember very well when I was about 15 my father brang home fresh edition of what called "The USA Automotive Production" magazine with the picture of the almost new to the moment CH model and the article inside. That magazine was black and white Sovied edition based on 2-3 different American magazins to show out modern news, generally for professional use. It used to come out in about 5-6 month later than a month marked on it due to the need of translation to Russian. I could get it to my mail box as any common local magazine and I did for some years. The most only source of American trucks info in SU at that time. I might look in my old papers, might still have some of them. If I find it I'll post some.

It seemed to me he've got too much of Mackoholizm being on here so at one point he went off. He was Ok when I emailed him last about one year back. Happy Birthday Rob!

I'd say you was too much in a hurry to leave that place that fast

Nice air line bracket. Nobody would disagree that experience is a good thing but ingeunity together with common sence make the most any deal done.

I always do that way and never had ideas of needing anything else for.

On my mind it looks unbelivable!

A dream Mack on my mind indeed.

They seem as relatively rare animals. A lil bit more than 1500 units were built at all. The artillery piece would be a handy indeed

All NO's originaly had military style open cabs. Like the two painted khaky in Mike's post. With the only exception of very first NO-1 prototype unit wich had a C-cab. All the covered ones are conversions. The pictures #4 and #6 of what Mike shared aren't NO's but NM's. NM is smaller in size and had Timken axles with transfer case, NO was all Mack. But they both had the same engine, EY707 gasser, a militarized version of commercial Thermodyne 707. NM's were mostly used by Britishes but American troops used the larger unit NO. There were also 3 heavier units built by Mack about the same time (1942) called NQ (the second picture). Looking similar to NO-1 prototype (C-cab) they had larger tires 14.00-24 (NO had 12.00-24) and different front winch attachment.

Still wonder what was the difference between ES/ER and FP. Different chassis components? And what was the reason to produce two about the same model trucks?

Try to call him and do it many times. He's a really great guy but it seems he preferes to be being busy with heavy metal than with phone talks wich you know use to be zero efficient sometimes.

Very interesting indeed. Stainless steel is a good solution either. Just remember if you're going to use repaired area outside (I don't mean any bearing assembly wich is grease packed) you should cover with SS a complete surface. Otherwise you get a common steel/SS combo wich accelerates corrosion extremely.

Congratulations! That's some kind of a milestone.

Nice scenaries! But I'm surprized seeing the river not frozen.

That's a good point. Hope that foam will work. You can see my original lights. I'd say it's not bad being almost always outside since 1988.

I put stainless hub full caps onto the rear wheels. They have a sort of a "magic ring" as the producent calls it - the ring that closes the over the stud area. So you don't need to fight pitting there that way.

Great work Kscarbel! Sorry I missed those original posts. Thank you for pointing me out.

And that "City of Winfall St-Petersburg" picture is awesome.