Vladislav

1940 LEND LEASE TO RUSSIA None of EH's were Lend-Leased to Russia. NR's only if we talk about Macks. The one on the picture has the number on the door starting from "L". L meant "lorry" and it was used by Britishes.

The insulator pads to put on a roof seem of a poor quality foam material. I'd just prefere to see well shaped rubber ones instead. But chrome finish is nice.

The body style looks familiar but I sure have never seen any Mack branded bus in Europe. There are many ex-European buses in service in Russia, many touristic ones come from other countries either. But none of them Macks showed out.

I think they would. Instead of Marmite it's everyday food overhere

AK is one nice truck although it seems to me a bit strange about your interest to Bedford cabbed NR's since they are conversions (re-cabbed). I would add though any wish on birthday gets respect As for me if I go with some extraordinar Mack I'd import Iranian NR version. Seems like not many chances to do but I might try in the future.

They look fine from the pictures. Could you delete small rusty cavits and scratches? From my experience fuel tanks are made of different aluminium (softer?) and more difficult to get polished nice.

Paul, thank you for posting that great stuff. As far as I remember Mack made one more attempt to produce buses. It was about late 80's when in cooperation with Renault big interstate bus model was prepaired for production. I read it in a magazine those days. Don't know if it finally came into production and don't remember we had any talks on that matter on here.

The one in the picture right above this post is at his yard.

Take a pack of scrapples from a shelf on Sunday morning, open it and put some Vegemite on... Ughhh! Don't rmember seeing any of Vegemite or Marmite branded foods in stores overhere. Probably should look better. Or maybe it's time to put glasses on?

Thank you for the pictures and the story Tom. Seeing the first images I had a question on the end of my tongue "where's snow in PA?". But then I found out the things were as they should be in the winter. Wonder does that Attkinson shop makes service of Atkinson trucks?? And clothes exchange is perfect

That's one nice looking wrecker. I missed that old wrecker thread by some reason and haven't seen the blue one.

I wish them an easy turn out. Doesn't sound nice at all.

Ufff!! I'm just afraid getting blind from seeing how that beauty shines! Congrats on the deal done. And yes, more pictures should come.

Are there any tandem E's still in existance? Don't remember seeing any show pictures on this matter.

There was also a serie of WW2 LMSW heavy wreckers produced. They were used by Canadians. Had the same style flat fenders but central positioned cabs. The later ones had military style open cabs. There are still many survivers in Europe, mostly in the UK and the Netherlands.

I have almost the same issue with one of my R688. The pressure goes up to 150 pci and than some protection valve opens in the air dryer (or somewhere below the chassis) and drops the pressure to 120 psi. I took the governor apart and than swapped it with the other off the second truck wich worked correct but had no good result. Haven't go on the fight path already yet, need to collect enough of info to start.

Your idea is very appreciated. We all here like old truck pictures The L-model is nice. Vlad

But it's cheap and as said there it's running.

Was the frame stretched up or they used a different frame? Doesn't H-model frame have the same style rails as a B-model do?

As MikeD said. You should be careful about big flat "unsupported" areas like hood and door shells. Just do many times spraying sand from longer distance. I work together with my "blast guy". He wears a full dress with helmet and can't see rust perfect through his glass. So he makes blast and than I comes close to check out. Make marks with a piece of chalk and he repeats there. Up to 4 times to get it clean completely. I was told you can easily deform a car's roof or hood (bonnet). With Mack R-model parts I had no issues so far.

Tom, I don't remember your chief (or it was dispetcher Randy?) sent you that far. Thank you for sharing the road pictures, I've never crossed the river of Missisippy. That KW in the mirror looks worth the picture. As for Heavy Gunner's shots... It seems not many chances to buff bugs off a windscreen. Especially wearing a Winfall style clothes Currently you can find something like that overhere on the local roads. -15 -20 Celsias for the two last weeks.

No body filler or speedy sleeve where bearing seats. There's a stress area and it should be repaired good. Might be welded up but you should take care about heat since the part itself has thermo treat. There are shops wich apply "plasma" method or some other way of metal spraying on. Locally a friend of mine helps me bringing parts to the halvanic shop where they put chrome onto worn off area. Not a thick lay though, up to 0.3 mm so maximum 0.6 mm diameter increas is possible that way. After any metal "grow up" or "spay/weld on" it needs machining. For the best it would be grinding. The most machine shop can do that, I just use to come to the guys who grind crankshafts. They must center the part perfect and need some other not damaged co-axial surface to check correct center.

Nice place to look all those old truck pictures. Probably alot of stories either. Sorry if he'll cancel the site.

Some while back Mike Superdog shared pics from Keystone Tractor Museum. That truck was there on the display. I see one more H63 in that picture, the yellow one in the back row, right behind the cab of the amber truck. Is that a yellow H-model Matt Pfahl restored for someone?

If your cab is a naked skeleton it wouldn't be a great issue to remove sand with a compressed air. Sure outside. The most trouble is seams and other sammich areas where you're not able to take rust from in between's. So it worth to observe every doubty spot on how to work it out. Maybe open some splices drilling off weld spots to get a gap between parts wich allows you to blast inside. Anyway scratch off, remove or cut out everything you don't need in the cab before blasting. Overall it takes some while for a good preparation but as a pay back you get all ready surface to cover with primer and than continue working where weld/hit repairs are required only. And with incomparable level of rust clean.