Vladislav

I also flirt with that kind of idea but not able to get a set forward axle CH overhere, CX Visions only. You should double check frames' front part similaryty, it might be so. If rails and spring hangers aren't of the same style I wouldn't go with deep modifications. An RD cab you mention has the same cowl form as a RW at the left only. The right side where an air cleaner is mounted is different and must be reworked. Vlad

I heard about elephant ears so far. Any other elephant body elements might be found in a Mack truck?

Thanks for the comment Paul, I was worrying any body could figure out any good figure out of what I posted I would note it doesn't cost a penny spent but the most important it guarantees you have the job done and you know it was done right. Cheers from white fly neighbourhood mate!

Who would have thunk.. Something seems amiss in that story indeed.

As said in the post above You might get better informed looking on the engine number. It's stamped on the right side of the engine near the front cover. Mack overhead engines of those years were called Thermodynes both gas and diesels. There were many of modifications of different sizes and HP. From what you posted it looks like EN510 or EN707. Not many chances (if any?) to tell how big it is for sure excepting by the engine number. Vlad

Mrsmackpaul said how it might be done on many old day's diesels. You need to turn off the #1 "top fitting" on the pump i.e. valve holder body, the part wich #1 injector line is attached to. Than take out a valve stem (don't touch it by thingers and keep absolutely clean) and drive the body back. For the best you need a half of a injector line (or just an old one) U-formed to put onto the valve body (port #1 of the pump). One end of that pipe is on the #1 port and another is free and near an empty can. Than pumping by hand prime pump you will see fuel coming out of that line into the can. Turning pump's drive shaft you will find a moment the fuel stops to drop out and become again if drive the shaft back. The very moment the fuel stops run is the beginning of the #1 pump section getting pressure to injector line. Putting the pump of that condition onto the engine with the crank on the injection mark makes the deal. You need to double check it when installed and correct along the flange if needed. The matter of things is a plunger it its burrel. Plunger goes up being forced by pump's cam shaft. At some point it covers the fuel intake hole in the burrel's side. After the hole is covered plunger forces the fuel up. And it has no way but into injector line. That's the injection start point. When you pump fuel by prime pump you forces it to plunger barrels. It comes to the input holes in the barrel walls and can come inside if a plunger is below the hole. The valve above the burrel doesn't allow the fuel to come into the line until high pressure is achieved so you need to remove it. With no valve fuel comes out of the pump port and you see it. Turning drive shaft you get the #1 plunger near the intake hole and that moment located indicates the correct drive shaft position. Hope you can and want to understand it.

Hmmm... Becarefulwhatyouwishfor... I should think well A pair of L or B-model differentials could make my New Year

I have nothing of 30 y.o. pictures with a truck but those were made 25 years back. Turkish guy came to Moscow with a load of construction materials to supply the building built up by Turkish company. A friend of mine found it and told to the driver. Than called me and we were back on the next day. It was the first Mack I touched up by my hand. That's me in the cab on the passanger seat.

Hmm... I probably had seen some of those Christas trees with no gold painted lizards on them either The bumper turned out good and the ass seems Ok.

Phil, It seems as a long story to the moment. I described it on the most matters on here. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/29254-frame-is-ready/?hl=u-press Vlad

If you continue testing with so nice truck images nobody would say any bad about hijacking. I'm with the tandem likers. At least until I go sandblast/paint four hubs with eight rims. Have done them 12 with 22 to the moment and still have neither truck complete. WTH.

Hmmm... You didn't note that in the original post. It would make my life easier if I ever come to finish my AC tanker model. Might make it Texaco since the decals in the kit are good enough to. About no time for scale modelling though, lots of to do with full size objects.

At least two wrong AC's on the e-bay picture. IM instead of T and the star. One more point to remind how carefull man should be bidding on evil bay

The air cleaner seems as a typical Canadian one.

So do those Rockwell hubs make those model's special apperience?

I'm with Donald Trump this time. What the hell is going on...

Not almost about that. The patterns you posted are of the Mack built TRD/TRT/TRQ factory transmissions. They were generally used on the B-model era trucks. An auxilary gear box wich is mentioned in the first post is mounted separately right after a main (stock) tranny. It could be low/direct or low/direct/fast or other. Telling anything about its influence to the road speed might be done knowing its gearing only. So some basic research on that unit's matter is required.

Cool stories Randy You got a lot of fun with truck driving together with seeing the country. I remember you told me some of that. Like Mercedes. Don't remember seeing any of them on the net about the States.

You are welcome! I'd like to twist my tongue a lil bit with English. Oder Deutsch wenn wunschst du

The world was changed that day. Japanise were too far from to be lucky in the end.

Your about right. Maybe 5 inches longer skirt and it would be pretty common everyday dress for Moscow in summer. Not many afford so high heels for everyday walk though. By the word the licence plate on that picture tells the car is registered in Moscow. It seems like Tommy had his very long ways off this past week

Ron, Seeing Tom's pictures we use to think the way you do. But when we try things to do we found out we actually have no time to

So taking all above together does B53 have less self weight than a basic B61 with more payload? That would mean just a better truck though. And what is about frames with higher section in the center? All B53's had them or it was option? Tom's mixer rides on some special front hubs as I can see.

Make a cutoff in the roof larger? Put the seal in gas to make it thick and then lay down for some while and it will dry out and get smaller? Seems like another seal is required

Best wishes to full recovery Mike! Don't overspeed it though, spend this time relaxing as far as you're forced to not be active. It's not so difficult to compensate a loss when you're well.