Vladislav

Wow! This makes me smiling ear to ear wide! I may also mention I ocassionally wear a F.L.Moore cap you presented to me and make marks in a desk copybook by a Kroger Pharmacy pen.

That's cool. I never drove anything larger than 33x12.5R15. Macks don't count. But I drove those for whole 10 years everywhere, both in a forest and on highways in Europe

Glad to hear I could please Zina. Say hello to her if she still remembers me. I saw that brown L-model at Macungie. The colors looked nice and the cleanness of the paint job overall was impressive.

Sounds like the critical speed is a feature of Spicer only. And the rest everybody just don't know it exists Sure kidding. It's fun to kid until your prop shaft would go off to the ground or hitting the underbody. Seriousely that's very interesting point you mentioned. I just haven't cut a bit of time from my shedule to check out the critical speed for my WW2 Mack. The shaft is stock though, has intermediate hanger I've revised and the joints are good. I didn't modify anything in the tranny, only put faster carriers. So improving the speed wouldn't affect the prop shaft revs.

The tyres look no less than 37". Must be a cool dirt cruiser with so small chassis weight.

In my case I suppose I would be the only person in a pump shop to explain what to do with "that piece of old junk". So try to scratch up a few bits of info. Would be also interesting to learn how to increase the maximum PRM setting from 1900 to 2300 what was told as a safe figure. I sure don't pretend on you to describe that. Just thoughts on the matter.

I would say it's a bit early time for congratulations on the purchace so I wish good luck on the purchase! Really nice looking truck and especial combo of a single axle and integral bunk. Gasser may be also seen as an exotic thing, hope not much worries on the fuel milage being driven ocassionally to shows. Another great point is that Zina initiated purchasing a big toy. You must be a lucky guy with that. Told her I would also remove that grill protector (probably the community would blame me for that) and brown colors combo would suit the particular truck very well.

Thanks for the note. I'm going to revise my Ambac pump off E6-350. The idle was floating and the rest seemed Ok. But bench check and other possibly needed jobs are on the list. I will Google the "rack buffer" to figure more about the issue you fought.

PM sent.

I think you can correct that offered style into the dome shape by machining. Looks like plenty of meat under the edge to mill or grind off with no worry on structural steadiness.

Shivers... Saw the video on my local news page. The heigth of the bridge to fall from and the temp of water don't give good chances to survive.

Don't you have the LH headlight bracket upper portion for a L-model with a soft nose? My one was butchered with a torch where the light hemisphere mates.

Yes they are, exactly. Speaking particulary I was impressed by the look of those wheels on your B-model. Saw them in person at Matt Pfahl's place in 2013 when the truck was even not finished. I didn't know you had to redrill them for stud piloting, never knew they were avalible in both variations or hub seat only. A few month back a set of two showed up for sale locally. They were taken off a certain American tractor, IH or Freightliner the most probably. Not bad condition over all. I have no particular use on them at the moment. Thought they would look cool being installed on a steer axle combo'ed with steel Budds or Daytons at the rear. These are 22,5 though. Not 24.5. But that is a common tyre size overhere, always easy to locate. So now I just have one more bit of a game to play.

My apologies Paul, looks like your right. I looked the Kenworth wheels over on the 3rd pic in the thread, where it's represented at the exhibition stand. Originally it appeared to me that there was that step over the lug nuts like a common Alcoa had. Now I looked better and it's probably a trick of reflection. Or possibly a bit wrong way of polishing applied to the particular wheel where the central flat spot got an edge passing to the hemisperical portion. I had a chance ocassionally accuiring a pair of 22.5 tubeless Alcoas of that smooth style with 5 holes. The difference is the holes are oval not round. Also look cool and vintage on my mind. The issue is they're hub piloted style so I need to redrill them. And sure grinding and polishing is unavoidable.

Yes, this is what I meant.

Are you sure the wheels on the Kenworth are different? To me they look very similar to the product we discuss. Maybe the hole size is a bit less. I'm pretty sure tubeless Alcoas with smooth dome face with 5 round holes were avalible at a certain time. If I'm not wrong Mike Superdog showed or pointed them out in some thread. Unfortunately there's no way to ask him anymore.

CS Midliner has similary looking hood. But I have some doubts on that hood to work as the direct replacement.

Interesting info and interesting style. But they look wrong or at least in a wrong direction speaking style. Looks like the producent took classic 10 round hole design as the basis but eliminated the number of the holes to 5. On my mind they would be much cooler if the edge around the bolt holes is removed and the surface goes to the outer circle by radius. Simply to say as those vintage wheels were made.

To personal taste the 1st pic look is better. Or Mack green instead.

Paul, isn't that your brother's new secret project to extensify the limo business?

I saw that truck in person in the summer of 2018. But don't know the owner. It was in PA indeed, parked in a yard near a local highway. The fenders were not absolutely perfect but quite good. The chassis looked cut in the middle with new longer rear section welded up. If it's up for parts definitely worth checking out. There was a huge and neat looking RD800 parked in that same yard. White cab with black fenders, hooked to a low boy trailer. I'm pretty sure I saw that truck's photo posted on the forum once a couple years back and too probably by the owner. That's a possible way to count out any contact info on the L-model.

You may also use construction foam if want to build a channel. Polyurethane foam doesn't stand out from air really much. Let some foam to get out from a can, wait for dry up, than cut into the shape you need with a paper knife. Speaking old wood I extracted from the hinge areas I filled the spots completely with new fiberglass. You get strength similar to a hockey stick handle. Some weight adds on but that's right above the hinges so no issue when opening. The amount of resin and fiber stock grows up that's true. But seems insufficient in relation to the worth of your labour.

Two hoods I put my nose into didn't have any inserts in the near the cowl area. Just empty channels, same as those which go along the center line and across to the sides. The hood looked glued up of two shells, inner and outer. Putting one into the other provides channels which are empty inside, even have ventillation holes penny large. Longer hoods seem being well balanced, same for the shorter ones though. The most of the weight is on the hinges at the front and after you pulled the dog up your way a little bit the center of gravity occures closer to the hinges.

Welcome to the forum! Parts search may be real adventure sometimes with big respect from a customer if the turnout is good. Not big matter you supply needs of the shop guys or work at the desk. And even no matter you work at a particular brand dealership. Parts sales experience gives you universal skill to be able to sell parts for anything Just keep an open mind paying attention to nuances and especially to complicated cases. Experience grows up not when you grap a marked part from a shelf and give it into customrer's hands but when you also point in your mind what that part was for and the case it became needed. At least in general. Make your brain working while other folks just play their smartphones and you will find out yourself standing out pretty soon! Vlad

Is the 2nd truck a SW? Any side wiew photos? Thanks.