Vladislav

Original R-model hood (two ones I butchered up) had wooden inserts in the area hinge bolts fit and up high to form reinforcement channels. Put there exactly for the reason you mentioned - to build a shape of fiberglass being applied onto something. Guess if cedar is used there they would serve well not shorter than your sail vessel. In fact the restovers looked like fir or other relatively soft wood so years of water penetration followed to complete decay. Wood doesn't expant as much as metals by warm so must work well with epoxy fiber. I'm sure if you're looking for extreme strength metal inserts could be used either. But with some good portion of head scratching to avoid possible thermal destructions.

Watts Mack used to have them in stock if I'm not wrong. Checked out their online shop right now but didn't see exactly B-42. https://wattstruckcenter.com/shop/b-model-parts/b-model-emblems-and-trim You may PM Barry on here for more info on possibility to purchase them. Vlad

Interesting sleeper definitely. My thoughts were of another kind though. Just spin in my mind a way to fit the sleeper right on the winch. Isn't that impossible? The winch would keep its place being hidden under the bunk with a big access door in the rear wall. And the matress floor can be (?) positioned high enough to clear up the drum. Would be a cool setup on my mind. But 1st issue I foresee is correspondence of the openings in the cab and the bunk. And the 2nd is alignement of the side countour of the cab and bunk may be lost.

looks like Able Body to me (and that's my favorite style). Or at least very close to.

Thank you for the lesson!

So do E9's drop a seat just after the engine shut off with no a few minutes idling before that?? Honestly dropped seat idea sends shivers up my spine relating to any vehicle. Regardless I've never experienced such "luck". BTW if it's fallen could it hang on the valve plate for some while before fracturing and meeting the piston and liner walls? The sequince idea looks realistic. So lay outs of the same kind with car engines.

Do you mean bad spray pattern? Sorry for the dumb question.

I minded putting a complete suspension so meeting a trouble with points you attach brackets to the frame rails. Probably simple spicers might be used but that should be kept in mind.

One thing I can tell for sure CH frame rails stand wider from each other than a B.

At the moment we talk about at least 2 slack ajuster worth

Doesn't surprize. Quite solid truck overall with V8 and a sleeper well worth the 2nd figure.

The picture must have been taken by a professional photographer. So the gunner was posing for it. This way the scene may be a bit more spectacular than it was in real. But on the other hand during a battle actual poses could be even more spectacular than on the photo. My hat's off to the job those guys did.

You don't need to remove all that surface rust if you're going to sandblast the whole cab before painting. Sure if you don't see a 10 years gap in time. Actually strange to see that much of it as long as you work in a shop not outside. Is the compartment dry enough? Or do you do wet sanding? And what is the reason at all you do that? To me it looks at least two ways may be chosen at this point. 1st you remove all the items off the cab, repair areas where actual rust through or dents take place, than sandblast the whole thing and bring its further faith into the hands of paint guy. 2nd is you sand off a certain area, for the best a portion of a cab with some borders, than mask the rest and apply primer, self etch or epoxy, depending on the religion you prefere to go along, and continue working on the next portion. This way no need in media blast is seen, or possibly locally only where deep rust was detected you can't sand off. Then paint guy will scotch-bright or sand your primer up and put his other layers over it.

With no torque rod in place and parked in that pool? May take longer to get rid of than I supposed initially.

His forum name is Staxx I belive. And Mike in real life.

And that drilling in the left knuckle for the steering lever must be empty on the 1st gen RW and WS. As on the pictures. Nice looking dog. I have no idea on what they're asking but suppose it will find a new home soon. Thanks for posting.

Good thing it was not a standard single cab and Mack engine. Otherwise it would have me scratching my head on possible scratching some pennies.

Yup, the most parts are still avalible to keep a MH in original shape. Or could be fund used. Welcome to the forum! A few pics of your pedigreed pal are strongly appreciated!

No less than awesome! And the great collection of dogs!

Oh, looks like I'm late to the party. Best wishes! Hope the Day was Great.

Watts Mack (the owner of this site) offered reproduction B-model harness in the past. But you should check out for avalibility. Another source may be vintagewiring.com (or so). They were Vintagewiringofmaine a few years back but the things seem getting a change.

...or the tyres got kicked really much

Best B-day wishes, Rowdy!

The length of the studs is definitely predicted by use of steel Budd's or alu Alcoa's but may also vary at the rear portion depending on were they fit into cast iron or aluminium hub. I'm also in need (with no rush) of a few those studs. But see no way ordering them unless removing at least one original piece for identification.

Agree. Spoke wheels don't look as Western thing.