Vladislav

It's shure "impossible to pass by" thing. Congrats! Does it have tandem rears? Can't see from what is posted.

Good fire! I use to make the same in my back yard but smaller. Aren't any troubles getting such a firework? Beautiful winter weather by the word

I love the wrecker, is it a running thing? Those little young creatures look like beasts. And my very favorite is the 1st picture. Diamonds and the rust

I would say a good hunt this time. That S.B. Cox is just a treasure yard! And the cross ties... Was that the rest of the old rail road in Winfall?

I would keep the gasser. It ran 60 easily, I saw it in action. Could go faster but Randy didn't want to show out the secret knob

Tom, thank you for the report. And I'm glad you finally hadn't to wait until that slacked driver ended up his strap business.

Thank you for the pics Ray. Nice looking IH, I like the colors combo. What's about Christine? Minor resto? Too interesting to see it getting care.

That's a damn cool looking truck and the pictures turned out very good. Thank you for the job Al, it's real pleasure to put an eye on them.

Thank you for posting Paul, this is an interesting piece of Mack history. I had some thoughts where it should be but I'm afraid it's long gone... I mean the truck, not the artikel

Cool thing! Happily I'm far away. And I don't need a truck with no steering wheel. Shure I don't neeed it!! Thank you for sharing.

Don't forget to get a couple of sacks of wooden chips to keep in the garage.

Tim, those NZ road pics are cool to see! Thanks!

I used to just type "b" in the Chrome adress box and it fills up for me "bigmacktrucks". Than pressing the ENTER button it goes straight here.

I myself prefere stock vehicles although appreciate your idea. As said above it might be difficult to lower it down extremely. So I would use some stock air ride axles with their attachment parts and put a valve. So you might run it low and a common level both. Thinking well during modification you might keep a possibility to put your stock setup back. This way you just need to keep the original parts for. Vlad

No, I'm afraid about twice more. Nice table!

That is a real sorrow Paul. Due to its weight it's much easier to get every thing from the living room into the shop

Than everything as usual. Layed the block upside down on the wooden blocks. Put the bearing shells in, oiled, put the shaft in, fit main covers, tightened, wired them up. Than attached the flywheel housing and the rear cover with the seal. Bolted up and turned the block to stand vertical. Assenbled the pistons with the rods and got in. Wired up the rod bolt heads. Revised the oil pump and found nothing wrong with it. Put in place, wired up and attached the pan. Yea, made the new gasket for it and for the small one either. And galvanized original bolts and than painted them before putting in place.

Allowing the paint to set up well I payed attention to the crank shaft. It had some rust as said above so I got it to the shop. They ground the mains off to the second stage, the size I found the bearing shells for. Having no shells for the central journal I kept it standard. It had no damage so it was possible. Shop guy was not too lucky about it. He spent about 40 minutes setting the shaft into the lathe. It was not almost a lathe but the crank grinding machine. After he had the shaft almost centered he ground it over in about 10 minutes or less. A couple of days were spent filing the piston rings to obtain the correct gap. Not a great trouble but there were 30 rings at all and I wanted to do it well. There was one more point in that story I wanted to pass buy with no doubt. The rear crank seal. The original one was of the old wire style and I knew it might be leaky. So the plan was to go to a modern seal. I had the rear cover off E6-350 engine and found out it could be fit to my block easily (40 years of difference!). It needed though to be cutted off from the inside diameter to clear up a flange on the original Lanova crankshaft. I could cut the flange but preferred to modify the cap wich might be swapped easily if something goes wrong. The other trouble was the size of the shaft journal at the seal area. Econodyne seal has larger ID. I made the steel sleeve to press on the shaft and get the correct size to work with E6/E7 part. Bought E7 teflon seal from ebay and made a steel part to press that seal in place. Not almost the same as Mack tool but the steel cap of the size to drive the seal in.

Paul, that wasn't the best way to cast the liners because it was not a centrifugal casting and some minor cavits came on the surface after honing. Not too big and too many though. I could go another way ordering custom pistons. Some places offer it overhere although I'm not shure how they are really solid to not fall apart inside a running engine. I've heard this kind of stories. Part 2 of the story. After the block was machined I closed it all over the holes with plywood covers and put the front and other original covers with temporary gaskets on. Than sandblasted it and painted. Made the same to the other parts. It was a usual combo of self-etching primer, second common primer and than acrilic paint mixed with matt additive 30:70. So just 30% of paint and 70% of matt. This makes a smooth matt surface you use to see on military vehicles.

I think he might be interested to put a green leaker in it

Those diamonds are bright

I myself wonder how is it far from Mack or Renault? I mean chassis/engine. Looks like Neway rears on it. Nothing like that in Europe.

Looks like a good week at all. Hair cut is much more important thing than we use to think sometimes. Right now I'm in a balance to cut my beard short again or keep it growing to be plaited More superviser pictures please!

Steve, thank you for the explanation.

Brrr.... I don't feel safe regardless I'm far away. My govnts search their way of doing things in best achivements of the West world. The last hope will be the big forests to the East of me.