Vladislav

As I remember Canada Day is the birthday of British queen Victoria. So since the year she was born?

Have a Great Australia day Australia! The same to Paul and the rest of the crue!

Looks glossy and sexy. And the interior of the 2nd truck is twice that way.

My guess is (that's only a guess though) that taper leaf is a good setup for a hobby truck when it's supposed to bobtail the most.

Ok, got it. I could measure my lever but saw not much sence in that since it's off a L-model (NR-model) so must not be similar to a B.

That's how the parts on my truck are installed (they're not in place yet though). Ok, an idea. Didn't you remove the shaft the pedal fits onto? As I remember two key slots in the shaft are not in line. So if you put it left side right the key slots went off the correct place.

Is the roller supposed to be pushed down? Mine (in 1945 NR) goes forward being kicked by the pad from the back side.

You're always welcome Bob. Unfortunately there're not many active DMM owners in the community.

3" is a large missmatch. Seems like you should double check every component installed onto the chassis. Hope you have the cab off at the moment.

The front corners of the cab are removable fiberglass panels. Easy to fix by the way of general fix for fiberglass. The front turn signals look just broken off or removed and their pedestals are up above. The spots don't look broken. The lights themself are standard lights you can purchase from SLC lighting or others. Overall the truck looks quite solid on the pics. MH has chassis similar to 2nd gen Superliner with only difference in the front spring front brackets since they have hinges for the cab integrated in the castings. MH's are typically shorter than RW's so chassis are less stressed during the service life. And supposed to be less cracked. But the particular truck is quite long for a MH. The engine is probably E6-350 for 1985-1988 (or 89) and later ones had E7's. MH613 means Mack engine tandem rears. The engine, tranny, rears and the chassis are typical Mack stuff. Not far from an R-model. Front axle and springs are similar to Superliner as said above so no trouble to find spares (no more than for a R-model). Specific parts are the cab which is rust-free but may have stress cracks. The one on the pics looks very solid. Typical issue is the shifter linkage where multiple joints wear out and bring troubles shifting into a particular gear. Some spots are relatively easy to fix (by machining) and some not. Complete linkage is difficult to get. Also when you're up in the cab and far from the tranny you barely hear when it grinds being shifted not in time. That's my observation in relation to an R. Windscreens aren't for sale at every corner and many trucks have repairs in the plates where cab shock absorbers fit. Cab airbags aren't a trouble to locate. Cab lifting pump may be leaky but that's just a hydraulic pump. While driving you must keep specific road orientation relating to an R-model since you seat much closer to the outer side of the vehicle. Actually you're riding the FL wheel so you must keep yourself up close to the median white line on the pavement otherwise you may hit a pole by RH mirror. Maneurity is like of a big car in relation to a conventional. Of other typical MH issues the threadle valve in the cab use to get stuck having long steel plunger in aluminium base but that's when the truck is parked for a long while. Anyway worth to take apart, clean, put grease and install solid top rubber cover. The grill parts are hen's teeth as pointed above but those on the truck are fine judging by the pics. On the postive side aside of maneurity you have perfect access to the tranny and easiness of clutch replace if needed. Ugh, and always be patient and keep attention while getting off the cab Vlad

Mine has the tanker body removed and not running. So somebody else

Did you also use the original rear engine mounts for all the assembly? I honestly don't remember all the plated ways you was figuring how to set up the truck the best but IF the chassis is the same, the engine is the same and the tranny is the same... the lever must fit. I can't imagine you put it upside down or someone came into your garage, stole the original one and put something else in place of it.

Mine had slight taper on the splines. You can barely but see it on my pics. Those hydro units I had taken off Mercedes G and cars (with circulating balls) also had taper. So seems like typical design determined by what Larry explained above.

A steal from the Mack Historcal Museum? That's a factory assembly drawing. BTW not almost up to scale if you're going to use say for modelbuilding.

I had to heat up my Pitman arm. Didn't go off with big puller. I put pressure than heated up to some grade (not red hot) and added a couple of good hits. Sure the situation may differ on a particular truck.

Welcome to the dog house! Beware where you step! Hercules engines were installed in Studebaker US-6 trucks and also in Diamond-T's of WW2 times. Personally I'm not familiar with Herkules but know someone I could ask about. PM me which particular engine model you're looking info on and we will try to go from that. Sure the forum folks may be of help too. But mostly here's Mack-related stuff. Vlad

They put it up on Truckpaper for those same 18K. Doesn't look well cared or maybe it's just old. E9 under the hood and the 2nd stick in the cab for the 12-speed Lo-Lo.

Was it in Washington state?

All is done the right way! Great to learn the problem is solved. If you're going to use the truck in the future and taking to account that machine isn't new it worth to remove the starter and go through it completely. Mostly for cheking contition of the brushes and shaft bushings and also for cleaning and grease. These starters seem able to work for really long time. But preventive service would minimize chances of unexpected failure.

Starter windings have so small resistance in relation to common electrical pieces so testing by multimeter in a "normal" way looks like short circuit. Starter motor operates on very high amps so winding wire is reall thick.

Something looks wrong about the relationship of the engine fan and the radiator shround on the 2nd photo. And that reflects the position of the plate between front bumper and radiator assembly on the 1st pic. Overall the truck looks nice and these big radiator B's are relatively rare. But it would need some notable amount of work to be brang back on a road for going to a show.

Yes, there's a style of steering boxes with circulating balls. That's good design regarding the function. As I understood it came on the big truck scene a bit later, after those simple warm and sector boxes. The steering box is of screw, nut and sector style. You spin a screw by steering shaft which drives or undrives in/out of a nut. The nut is also a rack having teeth on one outer side. The teeth are mashed to a teethed sector which turns Pitman arm shaft. The balls are put in the threads between the screw and the nut. So the threads operate as a ball bearing. If the box is an integrated power steering the nut also takes function of a piston having seal rings over its body and moving in a cylindrical cavit bored in the housing. That style usually has a set screw but you can adjust mesh between teeth of the nut and sector only. And if you ran all that adjustment to its limit and still have play in the box that means the balls or their racing surfaces are worn and a fix is replacement of the parts or complete steering box.

Here's a bit of what to look at. The unit is SG-16 made by Mack in 1945. Earlier than yours but from your description I guess very similar. Steering shaft put into a long tube you see in the cab which is attached to the top of the housing under the hood. No U-joints. I indeed had to remove the steering wheel when dismantled the unit off the chassis and that was a trouble with splines stuck to the shaft. Having no luck with simple movements I tried attaching a puller but ended up with a chiesel hitting from below the steering wheel and cracking its lower skird. Found no other way. But looks like you may try removing all the column off the housing together with the steering wheel. My style had the column driven into the housing with threads. Bend off the lip of the lock washer and turn the column (the tube) counterclockwise. The gear itself is a simple warm and sector. My model had the Pitman arm shaft spinning in two needle bearings not cooper bushings. Originally the gear showed excessive play either so I went through it and finding play of the shaft and seeing no wear on its journals I started a hunt on the bearings. Those were marked Torrington-something and after stiring a pot at my local parts supplier I in a month and a half purchased... one bearing. And after telling them "Yes, that's true, I asked for two" and two more months to wait (and paying double shipping cost) I grabbed the 2nd one. To my big frustration after reinstalling both bearings the play rest as it was with the old ones. So it looked like Mack minded that way from the factory (and I didn't liked it). The warm and sector teeth didn't have any notable wear either so my further look put on the bronze bushing the sector seats against and limits its end play. I made additional shim and if assembled with it the shaft had no radial play and all the gear lost 95% of its play too. I was pleased but not cheered since if the shaft had no tight vertical support in the bearings it would lean (dance) under steering force trying to brake the cover or so. And the thickness of the gasket was a mistery to me too since it influences the required bushing thickness. That time I ended up with the original bushing and no gasket (put sealer) and some notable steering wheel play of a couple of inches I would like to minimize for perfection. But I never drove multiple old trucks down the road so kept it about the way Mack made it. Much later a large factory repair manual happened to appear in my hands and Mack engeneers were offering to set the shaft end play by thickness of the gasket (!). That was written there with a comment of no shims of other than standard thickness were avalible. The truck is still in the shed having no engine and cab on so no comments on driving experience from my side. Hope the pics will help you. P.S. As I remember the warm could be removed from the steering shaft in a case you find it bad and no need to remove the steering wheel for that. Also look up for the electrical horn wire as it goes through the steering shaft getting out of the gear at its bottom end.

A bit of addition to what Mech said. Full check left to right is also aimed to figure out is your steering box in ITS central position when the wheels are straight forward. The reason to check is the most steering gears are designed having minimal or no play only near the center of the operational range. So if the gear is off its central position while the wheels look straight you would have excessive play in a good steering box. Usually a box have a mark on its housing with another mark at the pitman arm shaft end but you can always do preliminary check just counting steering wheel turns. The 2nd point is that devuice - the valve assembly - you have installed in place of the drag link. The valves are necessary for the hyd system to figure out when to assist and how hard to. The principal is when you start turning the steering wheel the Pitman arm forces the drag link to move. Truck's wheels resist the movement being on the ground. There's a spring in the drag link (acually 2 of them for L and R) and when you put force on the steering wheel you start compressing one. If the wheels are steady the force is sufficient so the compressed spring opens a valve (talking with simple words) and pressurized fluid goes to the power cylinder helping you. As long as the wheels are moved and no more force to the steering wheel the valve closes stopping the assistance. If you act the same but the truck drives on a highway the wheels don't give much resistance. So no force enough to compress the spring and open the valve so the hyd system doesn't help out and actually you steer mechanically. All that above is a theory. But the theory is the valve MUST have some play. To allow space for the spring to compress to a certain grade before activating the assistance. So in very theory such power steering desings (with the most other styles) have additional play to what just a mechanical box would have with no hydraulic (or pneumatic) add on. What I mean? Or what to do? Looks like a check of that valve unit in the drag link should also be provided. Along with other points mentioned above.

That guy had a nick name of Bigdogtrucker on here and used to be a long time active member in the past. I remeber having exchanged a few PM's with him a while back and he said he was active on FB in some antique Mack group (or so). So that may be one more way to try contacting him.