Vladislav

Welcome back! I'm probably a bit shorter than 3 years on here so don't remember your nice red F. Sorry to know you had to pass through some not very nice moments in your life but we should always hope for the best in the future. Vlad

I haven't seen any good blueprints of a B-model cab although I'm shure the best way is to make measurments off your truck or ask the friend about putting his hends on a 3D scanner. I'm not in trust to blueprints excepting factory production drawings of an exactly part.

Don't count my answer as a perfect one since I have never put my hands on both of them. But from what I have figured out from the description T2090 and T2100 seem to me as mostly the same units with one exception. T2090 is really a 10 speed but 2 gears have about the same ratio. So Mack called it "9 speed". T2100 has almost the same structure but with slightly different ratios, 5th and 6th speeds are different. So there are "real" 10 speeds with a bit shorter steps than T2090. This means those boxes have the same synchro, bearings, housing and so on. Anybody correct me if I'm wrong. Vlad

How do you determine B67 hood length? Fender ends are close to the door line? By the word (sorry to show my ignorance) - is a B67 a short version of B61? Or just an earlier one?

I would say "the great palace for the Mack kingdom" And his smile is too worth to see..

Kscarbel, many thanks for posting the Mackdefence document. I saw many of those photos before but never had put my eye on the whole brochure.

Good work and the R looks good with the boat on board. If I have many such customers I could also work with my Macks.

All B-model gear boxes are described detaily in our Wiki section. If your case is wrong marks on it the fairest way to determine is to turn the spigot over and count the number of the final shaft revs in each gear. Might be difficult when attached to the engine requiring to turn the box with the crank shaft together though. There's the other way. Take off the top cover and count teeth on every gear. Than figure out what combo works in every gear and make the math. I have it done and should say that's the most correct result giving way. If you need any advice on the math PM me.

Wow, good work Not too much of the original stuff in it but would be cool to save anyway. Putting a stock L-model cab and END engine might bring it back to life as good old Mack chassis truck.

Great pics, increadable interesting to see Nice old iron and beautiful scenaries! Thank you for sharing with us.

It's always nice to look over tough components of an old school machine building. Haven't you had more pics of the ass area drive tandem setup? Not much is shared around the net on this matter.

Sounds like a plan. The only thing want to note about those shiny inserts is they must be done of plates of a good thikness. And absolutely flat originally. Otherwise you will not see a mirror but just a play of sun beams on a deformed surface. I don't want you to direct to a steel shop for 2 mm polished SS sheets right now (I would do that myself) but just make one plate by the way you've planned, fit on the body and see how it's actually pretty.

Impressive

Too interesting, thank you for posting.

Alex, that would be cool. I prefere to keep seats original in my R688ST but want to go black along the interior since I need to refresh it the most and keep the truck color light green. Some strange way to combine green with amber strips and dark blue interior. The seats I have are of the "buttom" style with high back. Like on the right side on the pic.

Tom, I read in some book the other day that at the temperatures about the freezing point the loss of bodie's heat through a head might be up to 80%. Head is the most important part on organizm's mind so it uses to supply it with all the best. This way wearing a hat in the cold is a good practice. Shure not a tin foil one

I'd say good start on that bed. And those torch cut holes seem pretty round on my display. Good luck on the project and keep your feet warm

Looks wicked.

Alex, Sorry, not my cup of tee. I need them cloth seat covers and all four because my ones are dark blue and I'd like to go dark gray if play that game.

Out of likes, congrats

Cruising the net I met about 10 different books of that serie including L-model fire trucks. Collected 'em all. Have never seen a R-model one. Vlad

I would like to buy all 4 gray (black with dark gray) covers although backs exist of different higth's. Both my seats have high backs.

James, all those Macks were offered for sale on here by Jettertrucks. F-model: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/34814-1966-mack-f/

The first shot worth to be printed and put on the wall... together with the Pinnacle!! And that DOT inspector - have you had a bit of time to ask her how the EH was mechanically asound? If the memory serves it's the first time I lust a EH seeing Winfall scenaries

I recognized many specialities wich are difficult to swap and especially to collect together with no special need. Front spring hangers, clamp brackets, the air tank (removed from the right rail to the left). That's nice the power take off shaft on the transfer case still has the gear wheel for the chain drive to original winch. For example if you look at the left rail where the cross member is attached to you can recon this place with the six rivet heads and the four bolts in the middle. Here was the cargo bed mounting bracket. That big X-shaped cross member just above the bogie is original also. Bridge type rear cab support (red one, not brown) carried NM closed cab many years back... I would say that was too early and rare NM chassis. I checked out the book (wich is quite big) and my NM production record for the matter of rear axle markings but found out neither usable excepting they were 7.33. You can find those figures stamped on the axles you photographed.