Vladislav

Sorry, no ready answer handy at the moment. Plety was written on the site on this matter. You may do some relaxing reading during long winter evenings or maybe some one will knock on the door in this thread.

Yup, those middle hands definitely are making big difference. And not a trouble to figure out who puts control on that section of money travel.

That Mack emblem I belive is similar to what was used on B-models. Watts Mack used to have them in on-line store and recently they started offering plastic chrome-coated ones for some reasonable cost (about $100 if I'm not wrong). During the years I aquired a pair from flea-bay catching good ones by chance. But they were found semi-pitted to some grade anyway. Diesel is more special part since B's had smaller Diesel script. Those on your truck were installed on LT's and also on some 60's-70's Brockway trucks.

Yes. They made RS/RL700 in Hayward only. Too probably they were Hayward design too. Hayward discontinued them in 1978 (1979?) when RWS/RWL Superliner came to the scene. Production of RS600 continued and after closing Hayward (in 1980-82 time frame, don't remember) was removed to Macungie. So RS600 could be both produced at West and East coasts but 700's were Hayward built trucks only.

Very familiar situation, Geoff! In 2014 I accuired wery good solid Mack Ultraliner. The engine was operational, good paint on the cab, good tyres. And that strange rear setup with a few issues such as eualizer beams butcher-welded and one shock went south. I was full of enthusiasm and had thought to myself I'd put a question on here and easily locate and import all needed pieces. Not difficult to guess what that turned out into. I fixed a few things over the truck just to find FR axle is bent. Could swap with another one but would need to grind off ears for normal Neway levers. Which didn't look reasonable to me so I resolved to swap everything with normal Neway set I was going to get off my R-model. After installation of a restored set onto it. 10 years passed since and the R is still needing frame rails to put revised suspensions onto along rebuilt cab, hood and a sleeper. And the MH is sitting near the front of my house in the yard having about 30 meters of total milage for the time I own it.

What you may find on the frame is the VIN stamping only. Or the chassis number (which I belive before 1980 and also after 1980 was VIN). BTW door tags also didn't contein engine info.

You would have to contact the museum. There's on-line decoder but it gives general info only. Something like the production year and possibly an engine option, such as Mack, Cummins, Detroit... I was looking for actual info on my 1988 R688 such as the original engine number etc. Asked a few dealerships in the US (personally) and ended up getting essential info from the Museum guys.

This truck was up for sale about a decade ago. Zoom in the pic and you can see where to look at for the VIN. That's RS600 not RS700 but also Hayward production. And Happy Easter to you! This year this is the same date for both Catholic and Orthodox celebration.

The frame rail is expected to have VIN stamped into RH side near the steer tyre area. But there could be an exception.

Just a question you sure may not answering. If no VIN how can you register the rig?

Hmm... A question on a side note. What are those brackets attached to the frame rails in the background of the picture? Too look like that extremely seldom seen late style Neway setup.

Wow! Steel dash! Looks cool, and the steering wheel seems seamless. Wonder could you find any traces of presence of the V8 in the past?

Exactly as said above! I was just going to ask where that golden frog came from??

Almost same matters overhere. Difficult to judge but my guess is 70% of market overall is made in China and 60% of what is marked Made in Russia actually is Chinese components. But I'm afraid the reason is customers. When you see an item for $25 and a similar one for $4 we seldom pay for the 1st one. Sure that $4 thing might be found as crap. But might be Ok too. More and more Chinese goods are quite of good quality. Also high developied country like the US, Germany etc has high taxes which are aimed to support social expenses. So when I pay for a Made in Germany item I understand I pay partially for clean streets in German cities and good quality of medicine overthere. On the other hand it looks to me many high brand companies pretend on getting extremely high wedges for their stuff. I mean when say a certain part for Mercedes-Benz is estimated $250 by Daimler but you can buy THE SAME part from Bosch for $80. I agree MB may have higher responsibility for the product but I don't estimate it for 3 times. 15-20% seems reasonable and I would overpay that amount for 100% official product. But for 3 times higher cost I would try a fortune for cheaper option. Recent case. I wanted a set of A/T tyres for my 4x4. Used to like BF Goodrich in the past and would gladly buy a set. I used to see them offered in $120-150 apiese range in the past in my country. Currently the quote is about $650 for one 285/65R18. Not the way to go for me. And recently I found out a Chinise copy branded Comforcer was sold for $140. I read the net and people's comments were Ok. So I payed nearly $600 for a set of four tyres. Instead of paying the same cash for one piese! They ride fine so far. This doesn't look Ok for a national economy. When you develop local production you 1st involve people in the activity, 2nd you keep your industry in hot condition, 3rd you are strategically independent. But we have what we have and I have no doubt our powers well know what they're doing and for which reasons.

Cool beasty! RS/RL700's are along my favorites. Congrats on the purchase!

Looks as a Studebaker wheel to me. At least by the look. Possibly some Diamond-T's had similar style but I'm not sure those were factory. Have no idea on the splines size though. WW2 Mack trucks had wheels similar to the commercial style - L and E-models. But of olive color.

You have something wrong with the numbers. If you're looking for the chassis info there should be a VIN of more digits than you posted. And I'm afraid no info on the crane is expected to achive on here.

I would follow Larry's guess. Engine oil or 80W90 maybe as alternative. The reason is to penetrate that felt to keep some "serive reserve" and supply licky oil to the shaft. So depending on how heavy the stuff is you may need adding a few drops more or less regular. And I belive any modern oil is a few classis higher than oils of the times that engine was designed. So the most every stuff would work. Sure if not kerosine.

RW700 had 3/8" thick rails which were of taller section in relation to RW600's. Those had 1/4" rails. Could have inserts to be doubled though. For engine options 613/713 is Mack, 643 Detroit, 633 Cummins and 653 for Cat.

To my understanding it's a kind of powder coat, thermosetting and hight temp resistant. Honestly not that much a matter of chemistry to me than a place they do it overhere. Haven't found any so far

Yup, 1991 is more for a E7. E6 has oval side covers on the block at the right side. Those were eliminated on E7. Probably for higher block steadyness for getting more HP and torque possible. E6 has dry liners so seems not much of a chance the coolant gets into the cylinders. E7 has wet liners so possibly indeed.

Would be interesting to learn how that temp resistant paint survives. Looks cool as it is now!

My feeling is studying Farsi is more efficient for brain exercising but I think in your case the book would work. BTW the language it is written in is very reach. Much more complicated reading for me than BMT site.

For those costs you may purchase a piece of brass hexagonal stock, cut into portions, drill holes and tap threads in them making nuts. I guess that's one day job maximum if you do that yourself. I'm also not sure if brass or copper is hard enough for that application if not it means those nuts are steel copper plated. If so stainless is the way indeed. A care must be taken though since stainless hardware easily catches up together when overtorqued just a little. So grease or another media should be applied on threads for preventing cold weld. And one more point. If you purchase common 18-8 or 316 SS hardware they're not similar strong as grade 8 hardware. It's not stated exactly in characteristics (no standard probably) but as I read somewhere they're close to grade 5 for strength. So could be used in many applications. And if you are not sure SS nuts are strong enough for the exhaust manifold (I don't know) higher or taller SS nuts might be found.

Of what I noted for other Mack engines (of the era) bearing shells have numbers stamped for each shell. And the numbers are usually different due to one shell may have a hole and the other wouldn't. But what I was going to note parts list point a number for a two shells set. And that number doesn't duplicate any of the shell numbers.