Vladislav

Little note Pawel. I think it would be good to modify the front alloy wheels. Those ones off the kit don't look too realistic on my mind. Better to say look bad, especially in relation to all the model. As for me I'd like to make them whole new with a lathe of a piece of aluminium. But that's me and that's why I still have no ready models. So maybe to put some real small srews with nuts on them? Or imitate chrome plated lug nut covers? Vlad

Congrats on the fresh look

We all waiting for pics!

That's really cool, congratulations! Glad to know everybody is Ok. And.. What's a trouble of having a girl as a nice addition to the boys collection? Just something new in the life again. Best wishes to the family!

Hell... I thought you guys live happier. And... It was not me buying the water pump across the border

The one in the picture seems to me as a perfect double frame. Just no spread as far as i can see. There were many talks about them double's issues and I too liked the idea of drilling holes from an inside and putting grease fittings in inner rails. So you can fill up in between. Just don't greaze it before painting. Happily I have the single frame in my R. I also provided repair of the frame on my 1945 Mack. It had the single rails but with a big "butterfly" crossmember in the bogie area. There was a lot of rust and spread. I had it apart totally an sand blasted. Than painted everything separately and applied liquid seal in between.

Oo!! Looks like I missed something interesting. Shure there's a strong light in the end of a tunnel. Hope to see the baby finished soon. Watch out a little bit of info in the "asking for help" thread.

Update on a threadle valve. Here you can see it on my R-model, I was going to provide revision of it and looked over with the camera (first 2 pics.) Than there's the pic from Watts web site (there's the better one there). This one is slightly different, has lower part of the less size then the upper one. The valves on my R's and MH (the last two shots-MH) are almost the same with exception of difference in upper section wich fits to the cab's floor by different way in a conventional and cabover, and the pipe ports. The ports: both valves have them 8, of 2 on 4 sides. My R has 8 pipes attached to. The MH has 6 pipes (of 2 on 3 sides) and just two plugged up ones on the 4th side. A R-moder and a RW has pedal with a pedestal mounted on a floor with a valve body under it. MH has additional section to fit to the floor from underneath. As for the pipes... You should carefully look over the red truck pics trying to figure out their ways. Step by step. Any pipe diargamm might help. I have it not, sorry.

Looks incredable! Those people who spent their time and labour must be proud of, it worth the result. The color combo with black strip is nice. There were other Mack's pictures from the museum posted here and I'd like to say they all looked perfect and nice. Marked that place on my future trips list, sorry it's a long ways off.

Cool info! I'm shure you must be an expert on this matter.

I think $600 for the 9 speed is fair. As for me I haven't resolved yet to keep my truck with T2090 wich is original or swap to T2070 7 speed. It's not a question of the day so I pass the 9 speed now.

Early Mack NR's had 24's in front with 14.00-20 super singles in rear.

After reading all the fore-words I was waiting to see anything but was impressed deep enough. Those pieces determine no way back indeed. Couldn't you send me 2-3 of them to make slightly up my poor Canadian 3/8 rails? Where do you plan to get new rails from? Are you going to build it a double again or a single one?

Happy B-day!

I think we've spoken about those strange cabs before. As far as I know some Mack chassis were imported to Europe as a chassis/cowl form. It probably allowed to save cost using local-bulit cabs. If the memory serves me good there's written in the Dutch Mack book there were 7 different suppliers of cabs for B-model. There's also the photo in the same book of the B-model in the street with the driver by the wheel but with no cab! The head lights in France were limited by height so many vehicles had them removed lower. My second NR-model was in French army and the lights were not on original L-model brackets but on the hand made ones on the bumper.

Joe I just thought "reg" of "regular", now understood. Here I had a "happy" chance to find 24 radials, no bias on a surface. The originals were rags, but old and rough.

Joe, what do you mean of the reg 24"? Tubless 24.5?

Thanks again Ron, This might be useful for me. I have such the 24 daytons with 24 rims and 12:00R24 tube tyres on my army Mack. MH has 24.5 rims on spokes and I thought they could be interchrgeble. Really I don't need that swap but now I know it's impossible.

Here we need (needed, they have invented someting new and complicated just a week ago): 1 Bike starting from 50cc and everything 2 wheeled 2 Car - everything up to 3.5 tonns gross weight 3 Truck - everything more than 3.5 excepting "bus" 4 Bus - everything with 8 and more seats including driver 5 Truck and trailer - everything more than 3.5 gross when with a trailer So if I drive motorhome of more than 3.5 metric tons GW I must have "truck" And If I hook ANY trailer to such a motorhome I must have T&T, with is equal to CDL. As for me I have "Truck" now, so able to drive my Mack tractor but with no trailer/semi.

24.5 rim fits on a 22 tube type hub ??!!... That makes sence. I just thought 24.5 fits onto 24 and 22.5 onto 22's. And... What tubeless may fit onto 20?... Thanks a lot Ron, just had no mind on this easy thing. As for the tyre sizes, I found out a couple of misteries also. Once I got off a tyre shop 11R24.5 tubless tyre and 11.00-24 tyre and a rim. Being wanting to save the space in my car's trailer I resolved to just lay 24.5 tyre on the 24 rim being shure the first had lager ID and must fit on with some play. To my great surprize it wouldn't fit free but with a forse. So they both 24 and 24.5 looked like had almost the same fitting hole! Another story. I bougt 11R24.5 tyres for my R and layed them with the 12R24 tube type tyre I had for my NR army truck. Thought 11R24.5 must be about close of the overall diameter to 12R 24. Or maybe less a little bit. What i've found out you can see on the picture.

This reminds me the talk about CDL. Do folks really need bicycle licence only to drive such a rig?

What is "14615 trans" ??

Thanks Larry, I also have that stuff in plans to get over. Everything in my R-model needs attention and spares. The rears is not exception.

I'm looking for a pair of decent doors, would like two sets of the tank running boards (L&R), maybe with the straps. Might be interested in a good T2090 but not shure I'll be able to pay a real price. Need stuff shipped to NJ some way.

BS! The most thing I worry about is that we here strongly go your way.