Vladislav

Merry Christmass BMT!

If I'm not wrong Magnadynes were flat head engines, before Thermodynes.

When Mack introduced new family of OHV engines it called it Thermodyne. For both gas and diesels. In November of 1938 Nice looking animal BTW, thanks for sharing!

Two thumbs up! Merry Christmass!

Me too. But it's a printed copy. If you're looking for any tolerances or schemes/photos from it PM me.

This is FP of Gary Mahan's collection as it looked in 2013 when I took these pics. Very interesting vehicle on my taste combining classic look of 40's-40's with early 20th century's mechanics. The photo's are heavy since I can't downsize any at the moment so I may be needing to delete them in the future.

That looks like Lanova engine by the location of the injectors and Buda's were Lanova's in those days. Doesn't look like Mack Lanova it's worth to point out. Great find, very rare as it seems to me.

Wow! Greal truck and great project! And welcome to the group! Also very nice to learn such a vehicle showed up in Poland. I keep my eye for different Mack trucks over Europe for more than a decade and doubtly remember any L-model firetrucks besides your example. And L-models are rare in Europe at all. As you see both of your initial questions were answered immediately. This is an example of kindness of folks of here no doubt but also result of your approach putting questions in a correct manner and what was more important (as it seems to me) first representing your project and your needs with pictures and the story. People enjoy spending time on here communicating with persons of the same interests. And this goes better when info exchanges, not a one gate game. Speaking a bit more about the rev governer I can say I have one Mack truck with similar 707 engine and similar (or nearly similar) governor. First when I found it taking place there I was surprized seeing such part on a gasoline engine. Since I used to see them on diesels. Probably the matter is huge size of a truck's engine and risk of collapsing it due to high revs which is not a common problem with cars. A governor in my diesel Mack provides two functions - limits maximum revs and keeps idle. But this gasolin unit only limits overevving if I'm not wrong. Better to refresh this point checking out a manual. P.S. I very like your country and people. Used to drive there alot during many years, visited the most of big cities such as Warsaw, Krakow, Poznan, Gdansk etc. Unfortunately it's difficult or impossible for me to do that in the recent times, you know. Ok, let's hope for better times and better discuss Mack trucks. Vlad

Thank you! Almost as you said.

All I can say is I add my opinion to what said above. And I too like Mack trucks of 40's years (and own two). My preference is originality of a rig but your toy means your rules. Vlad

So is this the time to say Congrats??!!

Sounds like the valves are in the steering box with power cylinder put separately. You can only remove the lines from everywhere including steering pump and get a mechanical steering. What is I guess way far from what you want. The joint can be repaired in a machine shop. But that would be a headach and the truck must be parked for that time.

I don't know is that an assist cylinder or the only power cylinder. Which I would also call a power assist cylinder. Just depending on what it assists to - to the main cylinder or to a steering system.

Easterns usually had integrated steering boxes. That Western setup we talk about was born as an upgrate of mechanical steering. Mechanical gear in its place at the left rail with drag link attached to a Pitman arm. But the link has a valve assembly incorporated in it so when you apply force to it by steering wheel one or another valve opens (depending on the direction) and supplys pressure to a power cylinder which is fitted in parallel to the drag link. It may be fitted at the other side of the chassis (at the right) or right near the drag link. As soon as the cylinder has made his job moving the wheels the valve closes. If you continue forceing it by your hands cylinder continues turning the wheels further more. Actually this setup can be hydraulic or air and power cylinder can be attached to a tie rod too since there's no matter which point of the steering system you move. And may be arranged as an add on kit.

Weeping Willows? A kind of this? They grow here, not very common. I don't know why. Usually you see them near a river or a pond. Those in the picture were catched in Belorussia. It's 1000km to the West from my place and a little souther. But in general the same environment.

I've got mostly maples in my yard, planted them myself many years ago. Also a couple of oaks. Had a few birch trees too but mostly swapped them with firs which are seamless in the case of fallen leaves. The maples accompanied by oaks make a big job every authumn and I have to fill up 5 or 6 big sacks of old stuff and relocate it to a ditch along a side of my second property. This year turned out very short on time and I missed the moment. Yesterday's storm brang a few santimeters of snow onto the ground which cancelled the deal so far. The forecast promises warming back up in the next week so I foresee some gim with dirty wet stuff soon. It was fun a couple decades ago to put a hill of old leaves on fire. Fun for me and not for neighbours who built big houses close to my place so no such games anymore (but who knows?)

My guess the truck has valve assembly in the drag link and the power cylinder at the right. Doesn't it?

Does she cry of of how poor the shape of the poor old truck is and how soon are you going to bring it back to life?

You overestimating me Jojo. I've rebuilt a pump of my ED Lanova engine which I belive is very similar to that END-510 pump. It had a carbon ring combo'ed with rubber bushing and brass support ring. The parts were given to me new by a friend. But looked like some very usual repair kit of the past. The carbon ring works against a lapped spot on the pump housing. Actually a circle over the shaft hole in the housing. Cast iron was hardly pitted in the area so I ground and than lapped it. Cleaned bearings in solvent, put new grease, put new seal in place, assembled everything and spilled a half of glass of antifreeze in. Found it leaking so had to remove the pump wheel (sorry can't remember the correct term for the 2nd day). Found out I put the seal slightly wront. Fixed, reassembled, test filled with anifreeze agan - fine! All that was nearly 8 years ago (and the engine is still not in the truck!). But just the other day I finished restoration of a pump for my R-model (E6-350). It has a unified seal you remove from the housing and put back a new one (both avalible OEM and PAI). In my case it turned out I purchased original Renault part (it came from Europe). Of interesting points I noted 1st that unified seal has also conteined carbon (or ceramic-?) ring in it which just works against a certain internal part not the pump housing. Something like a Stemco hub seal. And the 2nd the overall design of that newer pump (E6 and E7 too) is very close to what Mack used in 40's and 50's. Even the gasket is the same. And as it looked to me you could cut the central hole in the old housing so it would be possible to fit that modern seal in it. Sure with a lathe. I just didn't have need already otherwise that might be a way to go.

You need to remove (by a puller) a belt pulley from one side of the shaft and than the pumping wheel from the other. After that the rebuild is a carbon seal and two bearings.

Sorry to hear. Of possible options which are seen to me is 12.00R24 tube type tyres made in China (Aeolus, Triangle, West Lake and others) and there were also Bridgestone brand 24's made in Turkey. Google search will help you. I don't know if your country is in EU, if so I'd ask Dutch guys. I know those tyres were avalible to purchase in NL a few years ago, saw them by my eyes.

Sounds like an interesting idea. I personally am not a fan of relocated fuel tanks as it takes away trucks originality. But that's a matter of taste and the owner's decission. We sure like to add something "from ourselves" to make our job special but my approach is modifying removable items keeping possibility to get back to the original shape if ever wanted. The idea of using bottoms of factory tanks for tool boxes worth considering indeed. SS wrap around with contrast painted bottoms would look cool. And SS requires less care in the future with less need in refreshening polishing in relation to alu. What also gets on my mind is use of diamond plate SS to correspond with the style of tanks. And what is the most important point I was going to note you should separate SS skin (or alu for the same matter) from steel tank bottoms to avoid halvanic corrosion which occures in the contact areas of SS with common steel really hard. So my way would be sandblast/paint bottoms, bend new SS skins of diamond plate sheet (a hard to bend stuff!),wrap it over insulating the mating areas with rubber stripe of paper gasked with liquid seal or poly film you apply on car panels to prevent stone chips and attach the skin by screws or bolts or blind rivets. No weld between steel and SS if you don't want to see rust leaking out from the seam after every rain or wash for the rest of the service life. Back to the original matter. I don't understand your plan completely so far but if I were you doing something like that I would use a set of factory square fuel tanks as actual tanks, maybe removed to the back for better weight distribution and a set of the modified tanks with SS skins as tool boxes installed in stock places with stock step weld ins. Right on the factory tank brackets. Than of color combo's you may paint both complete actual tanks and "false" tanks bottoms into chassis color having bare SS skins at the front. Or for example... Ok, say actual tank's skins into the chassis color with bottoms of all tanks into another color such as a cab or wheel hubs or what else. With bare SS skins at the front. Or all bottoms into the chassis color with front bare SS skins and rear black skins or cab color skins or so on.

Depending on the style of the junction you can (or can not?) separate one shaft unit from the assembly to change it in the truck. And keep the 2nd one for the future. Usually those "shaft units" are hold in the cab wall by a nut attached at the outer side. You drive it off and remove the unit inside the cab. If it's reattachable from the linkage you need access to that area only. If not you would need to take the most of the dash board apart.

To me the power divider is a sample of absolute engeneering genius. I just can't imagine how a man could desing this kinematic device. And it offers unique functional properties. Being said not being "an automatic lock out divider" but a kind of a differential. I suppose you read the this text in the past. If not it seems very remarkable. Sorry for the quality.