Vladislav

I noted later DM's utilized the same style top tanks as RW II did. But not sure the core heigth and attachments were the same.

Great to see! And looks like one interesting thread overall. I definitely need a bit of time to read it start to end. Not right now though. Thanks for pointing.

Would be really cool to hear a note from him. Or about him.

At least 1st gen and 2nd gen Superliners had different radiators. Of what 2 generation had they overall look similar to what was used in MH's. But I'm not sure were they all of the same higth?

All Renault Magnums were produced after 1990 or 1991 (or so). They only used in-line Bosch pumps. Mech 520hp pump model was PES8P120A920 with Bosch part # 0 402 748 807.

If so the things seem easier. I sure didn't remember all specs of your truck (and not always remember everything about my ones). Seeing the stud holes in the adapter a thought of Budd wheels appeared on my mind automatically. Anyway I suggest a need in adding the ribs. But the style you have allows you to add them at any time. My guess is you will find out they are needed after a day or two of operation on a soft ground. But it's a guess only. I wouldn't worry much on difficulty to center the adapter for weldng. If it's a bit loose in the rim I'd take a steel ruler or better a caliper and relate the distance from opposite stud holes to the rim edge to put the adaptor even. You may be Ok with about 1/16" (1-2mm) accuracy that way and I wouldn't worry with 1/8" (3mm) runout for speeds and applications you're forseeing. Lowered tire pressure is also on your side here. Put 6 setting weld spots at the outer side where it's easier to control the adapter position. Than flip the rim over and you're free for laying thick seams at the inner side where melted steel spills better catching both the rim wall and the adaptor being in a tight corner between them. Sure put weld at the opposite sectors, the way you tight lug nuts. If the day is long and amount of weld rods sufficient weld than may be done over the outside also.

The issue is the truck is Renault. Not a Mack so no help from Mack dealership. The part numbers listed look like Renault/Volvo (newer Mack numbers). Seems worth trying checking out them at a Mack dealer (in the States) for possible luck. Otherwise it would be too difficult to find that info since I belive it does exist but as an in-factory know-how. Which is not supposed to be shared with customers. It's supposed that a Renault customer goes to a Renault dealer having his Renault's VIN. Looking the list of parts I can say a bit. The injection pump has a plate riveted to its housing. It's Robert Bosch inline pump with Bosch number on the plate and it can be tracked in Bosch parts list (and related to a pump off a Mack this way). Oil-water exchanger is a typical E9 part which didn't have major (or any?) changes during the production years and can be swapped in from a Mack. I don't know what those manifolds are. If they're on-engine parts (intake manifolds) they must be the same on a Mack. If they're air pipes which go to/from the intercooler they're special to Renault. But can be custom made of a steel (SS) or alu pipe. Water pipe it the most probably almost similar to the US part since there was no need to modify it. Hydraulic pump is difficult to comment since I don't know which pump is that. The power steering pump used on Renault was different than on a Mack (but similar in overall style so may be possible to use maybe with some modifying). Same with the air compressor (it's not pointed in the list). Renault used Wabco European made compressor which differs with what was used in the US. But seemed of similar fitment (better to check that if needed). No hydrostatic oil tanks were used on Macks I belive and the turbocharger used by Renault was different than on a Mack (or very similar but installed rotated left to right). Definitely no wiring harnesses suitable for use on Renault could be found from a Mack truck. Telling more there were two versions of E9 engines used in Renaults. Mechanical 520hp and later electronically controlled 560hp (probably something of the kind Mack used on E7 and called V-Mac). But Mack didn't offer such E9's on the North American market. This means two mods had different injection pumps. And no chance to adopt the electronic one from a US made truck (or a US dealer). I wanted to install E9 engine in one of my Mack trucks and bought a unit off a Renault (what was possible to do at location where I am). I partly disassembled the engine and could relate its parts to what was used in Macks. So now I can tell something. But way far from being able to tell everything. Vlad

Of what I had on my mind is to re-anounce the thread presence. This way new (and old) members on here may fill up new content or maybe put back what is gone but saved on their Mack treasure keeping hard disks.

If a MH is found in a not running condition it may have a gear shifter damaged and that's one difficult to fix issue. Windscreens are NLA from Mack or about that I belive and the same with the grill. Gas and brake pedals boss in the cab is a subject of heavy corrosion and brake valve gets stuck if the truck is parked for a while. Besides that the most is common Mack stuff and can be found OEM or aftermarket.

To my understanding runout is a difference between max and min distance from the crankshaft center. Actually you need the basic size of that circle specified to be almost accurate. Say 24.098 +-0.010". But Mack specified just the runout. Probably in practice its fugure would be much bigger if the housing is worn really bed. Or anything else. Mack engeneers had something on their mind when established the check procedure. E6 and earlier dowel pins I saw were all cylindrical. I can't boast I saw really many Mack engines though. But kept my attention on readings on here for years. What I learned is what Terry posted above. This way Glenn's comment is really interesting pointing out he during the years of his experience seldom saw the runout issues and (never?) oversized dowel pins. So seems the runout procedure is mostly aimed to check on seriouse damage of the housing. Honestly I still can't figure out what kind of damage loosy tranny bolts did to the housing. If they damaged threads they went into you would swap the flywheel housing. And if they didn't damage them I see no reason the bolts were getting loose again after some milage. Another seemed issue is the tranny centering flange (rim) wear. That would affect the centering but actually of the spoken input shaft. And I don't understand how that may affect the bolt tightness.

I checked out Wiki recently and found many files were gone and links didn't work. At the same time many files (which mostly were saved as jpg images) were Ok. Overall there was plenty of useful info collected there and a sad fact about a half of it is lost. Would be nice to restore the content but seems it's doubtly possible without attention and efforts from the administration or moderators.

Ughh... I can't imagine a few things. First, how are you going to acces the middle (2nd) wheel nuts to remove it when needed? Second, you definitely should weld reinforcing ribs to the inside of that new plate to increase its bending stiffness. I'd put them off the center hole to the rim circle. The way the sun rays used to be painted by a kid. Six ribs at least, and with their outer ends welded to the wheel rim. And you definitely need to do that BEFORE you apply any welds attaching the adapter plate to the wheel. Ok, my second thought - if I was going to make such the design my way would (probably) be cutting a center off another Budd wheel and weld IT into the 2nd wheel instead of your custom adapter plate. Actually making a wheel with two centers. It definitely would be much tougher than flat adapter you're going to use. But any way the original center of the 2nd wheel gets much higher stress with the 3rd wheel added in relation to its normal operation carrying load applied to the 2nd wheel only. Your actual idea gives me a guess you are a "practice man" and prefere checking things made of metal. Would be interesting to learn how your custom setup work on a real truck. Anyway good luck on the project!

Joey, those readings Joe gave to us seemed accurate and with a little bit of offset from the specs. So my first guess was to tinker with the dowel pins (or leave as is since the run out was not extremely huge). But in fact we center the flywheel housing to get the tranny shaft centered which is based in the tranny (bell) housing. And if we try to be accurate within 0.008" figure it worth to make measurements of the bel housing run out. i honestly can't imagine how such a job could be done since we should use the tranny input shaft as the center. And it sure has plenty of play in its bearing. Something like a special pivot tool you install in the input shaft bore in the housing is needed on my mind. Otherwise all those rocket science tolerances over flywheel housing alining mean no more than only a half of the story.

Finally took time to read all the thread start to end. Really liked that volumemetric mixer principal. I'm familiar with concrete works and see that design can cover plenty of small specific needs. How far high can that bend elevator supply concrete? Nice job was done to the frame too. Speaking the rear seal I'd take a watch type gauge and check the crank shaft journal for excessive play. Also the flywheel housing may be missaligned (not concentric with the shaft) Having any of these two issues will turn installation of a new seal into waste of time. Good luck on putting the truck into service.

Does this superdog run novadays? Really cool picture. Someone must be happy catching the truck on a road with so good point of view. Thanks for sharing, I now too doubt I would be able to step on the Brown land myself in the distant future.

And the engine in the original talk was a boat application. My guess is if you have water all around you some also may circulate over exhaust manifold. I'm not familiar with marine engine engineering though.

If so the matter is clear to me. Never put a wrench on a 237. Thanks Glenn.

One thing I haven't figured out is how that assembly holds in place? I don't see any clamp or a brace. Were those "compression" rings supposed to lock the tubes by just tension?

That's probably because the seller read this thread and figured your father is a seriouse potential buyer

In Iran probably...

I remember seeing a youtube movie of how a man was making piston rings. Those were of a simple square shape, almost as on your tubes. The way was really simple. The guy had a piece of cast iron pipe or so (since the most piston rings are made of cast iron), put the pipe in a lathe and cut a ring of the size he needed exactly (as compressed to the place). Than made a cut, put something (steel rod?) between the ends expanding the ring after which heated it up with a small torch. Getting red hot the ring failed off the rod loosing its springness but got it back right after a minute. I was going to try doing the same but the plan as usually went on a back burner. Sure may be just a movie but seemed real and also not difficult to make a try repeating.

Renault didn't have such the thingy either. Same as in a US truck, integrated into the timing cover.

Wonder what actually B66 was? B67 gasser?

Hope you're able to leave your lovely shop earlier today and cut off a bit of time to add especiality to the day. Best birthday wishes! Many more to come!

Books tell original NO was 102 inches wide. She can't be much wider at the moment.