Vladislav

Looks like a R/Superliner floor panel to me. But could be for a U/DM, I'm not almost sure at the moment. The difference is the threadle valve hole location so not difficult for visual check. These things have value since tend to rot. Someone was even looking for one on here a few moons back. I'd grab it for some bucks if have less headache with shipping.

https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/66390-hatcity-rip/

Cool looking dog! Welcome to BMT!

Also a question is which model your truck is. If it's CH or CX (if a Mack) they have straight rails front to rear and you are able to order a full length newly made channels. Much more job removing the engine and the cab but you would get a truck with chassis of the same or even higher performance than it was originally leaving the factory. Older Macks with "fashioned" front end of the rails don't allow such approach so welding turns out as about the only option. The rails themself aren't extremely expensive. But the amount of job may differ.

To me it's difficult to forget them

Many were also hot riveted in the early days

It's possible someone already rebuilt your chassis in the past and used rails which didn't mutch the size well enough. If the issue was done by rust the shelves of the rails must be slightly bent relating to the horizont. If so I would try to forse them down into the normal position hitting by sledgehammer along the edge or using hydraulic what's more preferrably.

Sounds like impressive job done and a lot of new experience. Glad you got it fixed. Also thanks for mentioning all those underwater stones involved.

Yup. As said above.

You can use a 1:1 adapter for the start. If you have it handy or able to purchase cheap. Than test driving the truck you relate speedo reading with GPS or another true source. If any difference is found (I'm pretty sure it would) you divide the actual speed by the speedo figure and the result is the adapter ratio you need for correction.

The diagram shows all you need to compare the weight of two frames. Sorry no help with weight of suspensions from my side. Vlad

Thanks for sharing. Many interesting and nicely done jobs.

`Interesting. Your suggestion makes sence. Actually those are easy to reproduce casting led or tin into gyps or even clay if you want them more. So far I haven't figured any reason I would need one though

Ok, got what you meant. The difference between the plate you're going to fab and the Budd wheel center is the latter is dished. That makes it stronger for bending. Could be compensated by the material thickness indeed. And making third wheels it wouldn't be an issue on my mind since it would take only 1/3 of the load in theory (and I suppose no more than 1/2 in practice)

Great stuff you have and welcome to the forum! My guess it may be difficult to sell everything as a lot in your particular case. All the trucks you have are projects and each of them would require sufficient amount of labour and time. On the other hand they're worthy and I'm sure someone may be seriousely interested in one or two by his choice. Purchasing more is big additional investment which doesn't make sence if a person is going to restore one truck. So maybe it worth time to figure a cost for each of the trucks and offer them for sale separately. The "trucks for sale" section on this forum takes people's attention and it wouldn't seem any wrong to double you ad with additional ads there. Vlad

What they were originally for? I saw a guy on ebay selling magnets he made cutting chain attachment ear off a Mack key hanger. But those had enamel on and the cost turned out more than $4.00

I don't like your idea of using those flat rings to fit Budd wheels onto Dayton hubs. My guess is they will crack really soon. You may use something like that when the distance between two points of the force applied (in your case between the spoke stud and Budd mounting stud) is short. Otherwise you've got really large banding torque in the part. I would go another way and find hubs to fit Budd wheels. Mack axles made a way they used both Dayton and Budd hub on a similar spindle so doesn't seem difficult to convert (from where I'm sitting). My DMM had stud piloted Budd hubs from the factory and I located 4 13.50 (or so) steel wheels to mount 445/65R22.5 super singles on and fit to the rears. Speaking the differentials the cam type in the axles was an option and by my observations a seldom used one in that era. Usually interwheel diffs are of a common gear style. The interaxle unit is always (if Mack axles) of a cam style and distributes torque. It may be equipped with air operated complete lock down and wouldn't distribute anything when locked just forcing both axles spinning together. It was an option for the most of models but I doubt many DMM's left the factory without it.

I doubt you will find what you are looking for. There may be a chance Mack museum would supply you with some info but they definitely have production information and not ready blueprints suitable to make a scale model. Also a big question is of how highly detailed model you're going to make and in which scale. The chassis is similar to a Superliner and we have its basic measurements in the wiki section. The cab is of relatively simple shape so you can use photos scaling them down. Also being there where you are at I wouldn't miss a chance and get to a real truck with a measure band and take multiple basic sizes to do photo recounts more accurate. If you need a few particular dimentions feel free to PM me and I will measaure one of my MH's.

Welcome to the forum! There are definitely some Macks in GB judging by net pictures. And many looks nicely restored. Vlad

Someone was selling brand new air motors for a F-model on ebay a few months back. Something in between of $100 and $200 range. I even bought one for use in a R-model. From my observations the general design was similar and difference was in the style of the part which mates to the linkage. Seemed reworkable so I grabbed it. Haven't got to the installation yet so no detailed review.

83 may be mechanical indeed and the things would be as said in the post above. If its electrical as later MH's were the sensor is in the flywheel housing and easily seen from the outside. Similar sensor for the speedo at the tranny output flange or a cable if the speedo is mechanical.

Happy Thanksgiving American friends!

Matt, did you test run the engine? Its color looks faded relating to what you posted in the past. Sure kidding. You definitely seem prepaired to have some fun on the turkey day

Does that B-model have a short hood the same as B-67 has? Definitely looks shorter than a B-61.

Great looking truck for sure! And definitely rare spec. Congratulations on the purchase! To me it seems of no much reason to remove the mixer setup since it's already restored and looks nice. The same opinion on the engine swap. What you currently have is OHV Thermodyne Mack gasser which is quite powerful and reliable. I don't say it has pretty fuel milage but using the truck for attending shows the cost of about any seriouse conversion would never offset the economy achieved. And if you want to tow a trailer and have a diesel seems easier to just buy one more B61 already a tractor. Sure the points are just my opinion and you will choose your way to go and enjoy. A bit of advice is not to start from the mixer unit remove and so on but fixing small things over the truck keeping it the way it is and running. So you would be able to drive it for a bit and get some fun and also achieve much more info and experience to consider its further faith. Vlad