Vladislav

Cool! Thanks for clearing me up. Honestly I was close to feel myself knowing everything about old US trucks and that wig-wag literally knocked me directly between my eyes

To figure is the diff is currently locked or free I mean physically not judging by the indicating light you need to jack up one of the wheels of the axle and try spinning the wheel by hand. If the diff is free the wheel would turn forcing the prop shaft turning together with it. The tranny must be in neutral though. If the diff is locked the wheel would be locked to the other side wheel and as long as the latter touches the ground and can't spin the whell you check wouldn't go either. The problem is you need the parking brake loose on the tested wheel. So there's a need to loose the slack adjuster on the checked wheel or release the truck's brake having chocks put all over the rest of. Actually it's important thing to investigate the diff lock operation physically. Because in theory when you see the light on it doesn't really mean the lock is in. And if you don't see the light it also doesn't mean the diff is free. The light switches on by a push switch in the axle. And if you for example have a wire broken the light wouldn't glow.

I'm not almost sure but it seemed to me like Sparr Truck went out of the business a few years back. At least I made Google search a couple of times in the past and no links to actually operated company appeared.

Congrats on the deal! I checked out the link and the add was already removed. Honestly I wanted to save the photos from the craigslist listing since they represented the truck very well. Maybe it worth to upload them to the gallery on the site? I don't think the new owner would be unhappy if such happened.

Definitely the thing you need the first and the most to start painting the dash is those switches Speaking the subject I'm not sure Amazon carries all the assortment you need for a Mack. Once I had the main light toggle switch fallen (apart!) and started looking for one I discovered there's plenty of similar looking switches. But that one I had in my R-model had specific functioning and terminal lay out. So after some basic search I ended up ordering one from Watts.

Hmm... What is that wig-wag-thingy supposed to be doing?

Thanks for educating me on the Mack engine F-mod. Will keep in mind. As of clairvoyants it seems easy to recognize such a person by a big shed in his back yard full of old spares

Good progress! Looks like we'll see her running by her own power soon

It doesn't sound as a nice story to wish anyone to pass through. But brings hopes for smooth turn out. And no one would argue at the moment that purchasing of the spare engine was a wise decition. Carl, are both ENF510 and 510A have double spark plug heads?

Definitely. Shoes could wore the drum and make a step near its edge. You pull the hub off and the drum hits against the shoes by it. Pretty common case when removing any brake drum. Try doing as adviced above and you will be probably fine. At least that's the 1st thing you should do at the moment.

The fuel lines could be different themself where attach to delivery valves. They look so but I haven't checked. So could be interchengable either. The firing order is definitely the same since it's predicted by the engine operation. Another thing I'm not sure about is the firing point. Different pumps may have different initial angle since they have different design. But may have it similar. Worth to check out the data for the similar engine but equipped with the other style of the pump.

Looks like she may be needing help to put her left leg back into normal position.

Nice looking R-model. Would be definitely an alternative for your Harley after putting some care to the look. Have fun! Vlad

Those are real eye catchers! Uggh, I mean the pictures. And I also like the Mercedes.

Thank you. I probably saw this chat before. Or its clone. Unfortunately it doesn't look trusty enough. First of all I don't see my engine there although it's pretty common E6-350 4V. The table conteins EF-350 which is the most probably a missprint since I too doubt EF engine model by Mack ever existed. Another smoky point is there're plenty of strange Mack engines showed in the table. Such as EN7-350, EM5-250, E6-200. And at the same time you don't see such typical engine like E9-500 there.

Great to see you're progressing! Turns out nice. And the only thing you need... is just continue doing the job the way you do Wish you having enough of time and $$$ for.

Great posts and photo indeed. Really interesting to read stories from earlier times.

I had such experience with only difference it was supply nipple and it was Ambac pump. Got luck hammering a 12-edged bit (like Allen bit but with twice more edges) into the restover of the fitting and drove it off. My issue was finding another suitable fitting with apropriate thread since I was in 2000 km from my shop. Ended up using something off a certain airline to put into the pump and a certain fitting which sticked off a fuel tank (but was abandoned in the previouse years) to be used in the air line instead. But that's another story. Speaking the injection pump if that's a Mack engine you only need to remove the bolts which attach it to the engine block, a rear support bracket and sure all pipes/cables. The coupling has a keyed slot (different styles during the ears) so you will be able to get the injection timing almost where it previousely was without special procedures. To my mind there could be small nuances relating to your particular pump vintage/style. And as long as B-model is very common truck for our members on here someone may tell you more about that than me. So too worth posting a few photos of the engine compartment and the pump setup for better identifying. Vlad

Seed, pretty imteresting to hear. I would like to bother you later a little bit, will send you PM. I like those big Renaults with air suspended cab and flat floor and tried to learn the design of their Australian version for a long while.

When I just need to start one of my Mack trucks, after long time in the most cases, it's enough to attach two 75-90 Ah batteries. It works for warm temps and for in-line engines, I just don't have any trucks with V8. You can spin electric starter for a total of couple of minutes before they show low down. Sure if you're going to use the truck for work it's better to put larger batteries. The air issues usually go off after finding and plumbing air leaks. But if they wouldn't you're in a need of investigation of the air brake components. Mostly valves and air line lay out. If you didn't do that work before it may require a bit of education. Once I got in such situation I googled "truck air brakes" and found a lot of articles with detailed description of the whole system operation and each valve design. Spent a couple of evenings reading and than figured the matter of the issues in less than a coule of hours. Had a few valves revised (freed up/cleaned) and a few air lines to swap.

Seeing that tank on the lowboy I expect the story may be for not public posting. And from where I'm sitting it more looks like she's pulling for Australia One great looking super dog, no doubt

Great truck to own and be proud of!

Brocky, I belive so. We discussed the frame matter a few times and the turn out was every Mack built in Australia (and probably in NZ too but I'm not sure at the moment) used Eastern R-model frame rails. It is easy to see on pics with the bonnets/hoods open. R-model has quite distinguishing shape of the front portion of the rails so easy to recognize. As long as I remember Superliners used heavier (taller) R700 rails. I have no idea on were standart R-600 (9 inch) rails took place but seems too possibly. Pics show R's, RW, Valueliners both in-line and V8 and also F-models utilized those rails. Adding the point Aussie F-models were marked FR the matter gets a look of making sence. I should admit though all that doesn't relate to Renault-generic Macks. Definitly Aussie Mack Magnums used European wheels what means European hubs. So I'm about almost sure Magnums were complete Renault chassis/cabs.

The same truck model in the US would be called MB. Your mark MBR means it's a MB built using R-model chassis as the most every Mack truck built in Australia was. So actually I expect finding a typical R-model chassis with typical (one of) in-line 6 cyl Mack engine (if it's a Mack engine) with a MB-model cab fitted on. I doubt it would be easy to find info on the particular model (but too possibly if someone in your country has a manual) but quite easy to find info on R-model chassis components and Mack engine. I'm pretty sure if you post some basic views of the engine and the chassis a lot of members on the forum would determine their kind and narrow down the search on the info sources. Vlad

Keith, sounds like you have good progress on the truck. Although all those little odds and ands bring pleasure when this or that issue is fixed but they take time. And bad thing is they in many cases take time off major projects. Bob, glad to hear you stocked a set of doors for your DM. I wouldn't say "Have a ball with them" (sorry, couldn't resist) but advise you to bring those doors to a body/paint shop and ask to revise them and paint the color the truck is supposed to be in. Actually it's a sufficient part of job but doesn't require disturbing the truck. When the doors are ready you will fit them on the cab and the next step may be the hood. I made that thing with doors on my R-model. Found a good pair, parted out, brang to a paint guy, chose the color, payed for the job and brang ready doors back home. Than tinkered with each of them during a few weekends. When all the glass was installed, new chromed handles fitted and mirror arms polished up, I asked a couple of guys for a help and we installed ready doors onto the truck. So I have two beautifully done doors on my R-model since. For almost 6 years to the moment. Have to admit though about nothing beside those doors