Vladislav

Too probably. And too possibly it could be fixed when on a floor and having a time frame for the work.

Not that bad too. But a good point. The DMM was purchased already with no mirrors and arms. So I kept my eye for any and didn't miss a chance to purchase a complete DM cab off a mixer truck which was parted out locally. BTW the truck was originally imported by that same Turkish company. The arms were on the cab and complete but painted black steel not SS. So I continued to keep my eye (actually I keep it for any Mack related stuff on a constant basis). Another ocassion was also DM, dump truck that time. Quite late production, the paperwork was marked as 2004 but I doubt they were in production that late. The truck was for sale but far away and my pockets were also far away from making purchase at the time. Big issue was the rear bogie was completely ruined so the truck was offered standing on 6 wooden blocks (and in 2000km from me). Turned out another person who was locally to the place made fast purchase. But it followed to very fast parting out and further really fast scrapping. I think I posted that story in the past, it was a couple years back. Unfortunately I can not boast of I was right in time to the deal. But grabbed a bit of stuff from there. Purchased two solid doors, two gray seats, two battery boxes and a complete SS set of the mirror brackets. So both my DM and DMM are "armed"

Not that bad overhere. I think it would cost me nearly $150 US to revise the pump in a friendy shop together with recalibration. If new plungers are needed it would definitely be another deal

Thanks for sharing. Great reference pics for my resto project. You can seldom see an untouched truck.

Freed up two plungers in the pump to make the rack moving, started the engine. Tinkered with slack adjusters and air lines a bit and got her running. Than washed all fleas off the hood and the cab.

You should hang up the engine a little bit to get the tranny above the floor. Than lay the engine back down on blocks. After that reattach cables to the tranny, put tension to compensate its weight, remove the bolts and move the tranny backwards and off the engine. You can also put forks below the tranny to get it off. But anyway first you need the engine being in position with the tranny off the floor.

Probably. Seems like Econodyne badge pointed to economy which at a certain time became more prevailing tendency than maximum power Maxidyne name reflected. We do understand any brand or a trade mark is a marketing thing nowadays.

I belive later times of the gold bulldog were concerned CH/CL models and that meant all Mack components (or all Mack drivetrain?) Probaly a few years long duration. Earlier and the original period was concerned Maxidyne line of engines introduction. Gold engines together with gold dogs distingueshed the feature. Unfortunately I don't know how long it lasted and how many years went between the two periods. Also a question from my side. I saw later gold dogs in person and they didn't look like polished gold (the way chromed dogs do) but painted gold metallic. Wonder how early Maxidyne dogs looked? Also gold paint? Or something like titanium nitride put on polished steel?

Here in Russia drivers call it a parachute

My Mack NR had spiders machined down to 20" from original 24" (NR's never had 22"). The areas where the studs were originally have gone. For that reason new holes were drilled just in the spoke bodies with threads cut and new studs installed. Actually the spoke ends were cut off so you could see their ends U-shaped. Nothing seemed broken after driving that convertion but I expect not much of use since it actually worked as a yard (inside a plant) truck.

By the shape of the front fender it looks like Mack to me.

Paul, thanks for the story and for sharing that new spectacular look of Mrs Mack. It looks amazing now no doubt and really cool you found it needed to do all the job and spend money for. Too sorry to hear about your old friend passed away. And seems like your motivation was also to keep memories of the person who could do such type of works but it never happened. Also a big point for us to remember it's not a right way to put every thing on a back burner. I suppose it was not a two penny job to make up Mrs Mack but once it's done you will never sorry or dissappointed for the money spent. Love the lady dog. That boy dog maskot is a really commonly used image and what you made it into is almost pretty and I belive nobody have done before. Or am I wrong? Sorry for the late comment. I saw new pictures of the truck about a week ago and already checked out the thread. But the week turned out very busy so not much time was spent by the keybord.

Neat truck. Cool thing in Australia you indeed can convert R700 into a Superliner since both have similar frame rails.

De Jure the owner has the right to do whatever he want, it's true. But actually there's a thing which is called cultural value or historical value. In some cases it is protected by law. For example you can not modify a historical building no matter you own it or not. Not sure how it works in the States but in my country it occures for the most buildings in a city historical center. Or for example you're not allowed to farm or build in a national park. A bit different case since you can't buy a land there but the same matter. So my point of view is an owner of an artifact which has any special value, historical, cultural or artificial, should feel resopnsibility for keeping his object of property in a certain condition regarding it's special value. It's not a law in the particular case but we all love the things we own or deal with for fun. So it seems like our very care to preserve them since WE need them existing and bringing fun, no one else.

To the year it was built (85-88?) it should be R690 with that 300hp EM6. Mack put Econodyne badges on those trucks for some reason. And silver dogs. But to me it seems they were Maxidynes by the mean. Beautiful truck. The lever looks worn over its top indeed but overall condition of the interior looks much fresher than 100K miles.

To my recent observations 285/75R24.5 are not equal to 11R22.5. Many sources point out a sectain wheel size crosses to another but when you measure an actual pair of tyres it turns out as missmatch. In real a tyre produced by different manufacturers has its special OD. Which may vary to tyres of the same size made by others. I jumped with a measure tape over multiple wheels trying to find something of the kind you do at the moment. Found out some wheels lesser than others which were described as equally sized. The way to put the ducks in the raw is measuring actual wheels (both OD and the circle length) and also checking out an OD of a certain tyre model on the net. Just try googling specifications on say Bridgestone R250 285/75R24.5 and 11R22.5 and you will see what I'm talking about.

I think you could find front Dayton hubs off a B-model to suit 22" rims which also accomodate 24.5 tubeless rims. They sure existed. this way you'd be running 24.5 all over the truck. And to my mind there wouldn't be much difference for either 285/75 or taller 11's. Looked over my B-model pics collection yesterday and found neither views of a 20" 8 bolt flange hubs.

May help someone to resore his already existing C. Or would be extremely ambitious project to bring the particular truck back to life. Actually everything you need is there. Just requires to add some labour.

Congratulations and welcome to the forum! The specs are very promising. Vlad

Yup, as said above. Eastern R-model or Western RS? Or any other model? How long?

I'd start with what Paul said. Wash up the rearend of the pump. There're a few small covers on the governor and if the leak goes from below of any of them it's probably an easy fix to do right on the engine. If it's from below the big governor housing you'd probably need to remove the pump to work with it on a bench. Pumps of those years have simple fit and don't need injection reset after removed and put back on. But better look for the particular pump design before digging that deep. At least post a few pics of its general appearance on here. Vlad

Those washers were stamped steel dishes with rubber pads (also washers) put below. The steel ones are usually reusable or could be purchased from a hardware shop. I didn't see a straight way to get the rubbers and ended up buying screws for attaching metal sheets for roofing (on a house) and separated rubber washers off their steel washers.

Sounds like you've got an issue with shifter rails in the main box top cover. There are 3 rails with shift forks connected to each one. One rail and fork for 2nd and 3rd speed, one for 4th and 5th and one for 1st and Reverse. The rails have brackets at the top with recesses. When you move your shift lever its bottom end goes in those recesses. When the tranny is in neutral the recesses lined up so you can move the lever left to right. When you move the lever front (or backwards) it forces the rail it occures in a ditch of to go back (or forward). The rail moves on together with its fork sliding a sliding clutch into a gear and you have a gear shifted. If you in that position try moving the shift lever to a side it wouldn't go since the bottom end of the lever isn't against a ditch in another rail. So you can't shift another gear while you already have one shifted in. What you have now seems like you have the ditches in the rails not aligned. So your lever got locked in 1-R rail and can't get into a neighbouring other rail. You need to remove the cab floor and take off the shifter tower. A small stamped rectangular cover with the shift lever sticking off. Just drive the 4 bolts off and pull the lever. You will see the matter through that opening but I suppose fixing the issue may require to dismount the whole top cover of the main box. Nothing special to do that though excepting cleaning the mounting surfaces and applying silicone sealer or a new gasket.

That's one of the reasons people order restoration or do the job themself. And also a reason buying a ready vehicle is in the most cases cheaper than to build it. I think the truth is somewhere in the middle and if you're wise enough you'd be Ok.

I always count he served as a Navy not as intelligence...