Vladislav

Keith, many thanks for the sizes and especially for the numbers. I made a quick look and it appeared like your info helped a lot to narrow down the search.

I hope someone has the figures handy or just in head. What is a part# for Mack E6-350 4V injector nozzle and its pressure setting? My build sheet points out 736GB259P10 nozzle and holder but I can't track the nozzle #. Close alternatives would also work in my case if any. And the same interst on EM-6 300 4V.

I also like the idea of checking the hub position by observing relation of the drum to the shoes. The spacers/washers were definitely used to make correct hub fit. Too probably there were different styles of hubs used with that axle housing and there was a need of spacers in some wariations. I once also met something like your situation when changed bearings on a MH-model. The axles were Mack on airride so I supposed they were 38000lbs. The hubs were spokes to fit 24.5 rims with Mack script cast on them. The bearings were 582/572 with 563/567 as it supposed to be for Mack axle of the spoken axle rating. But the seal was NOT 4-1/2 x 5-3/4 as it typically is (and should be) but 4-5/8x6. There were spacer sleeves pressed onto the spindle shoulder to increase the OD from 4-1/2 and I would expect that as a home made conversion. But the hubs were bored to 6 inch not 5-3/4. I too doubt someone machined the hubs for larger OD seals but who knows.

That's how it seems to me either. Suggestion could be it was marketing thing also. When a new model was introduced the manufacturer wanted attention of potential buyers. So put something new in the line of things people got already used to.

Interesting. In Europe Renault offered only 390, 430, 470, than 440 and 480 hp E7's. 390, 430 and 470 (I belive) all had in-line injection pump. And 440 with 480 were PLD section E-Tech.

That tank setup is indeed an interesting set of pieces to tinker with. A wide field to apply engeneering of different kinds. Wonder what the tanks used to cool off the intercoolers? Did they have a large water tank too? Or a radiator to cool the water as some vehicles utilizes? That crack in the base sucks. I have no idea on how the part is avalible from Mack and how costy but one of my thoughts is on custom casting. Not really difficult shape to reproduce on my mind and too possibly you could play with properties of the alloy to improve the performance. I doubt Mack used space technologies for a road truck engine part. Another simple (but no doubt poor) idea is weld the crack. I had a funny case when I once drove in to a muffler making shop for some reason and found out they offered exhaust manifold welds. I got surprized and asked a guy on could they fix a cast iron part. He looked under the hood and said no problem just 500 Rubles (nearly $20 those days). I said Ok and was going to look on what he would do. The guy came back with a wire welder and applied a 5 cm of seam. Said that's all done. To my honest question of would that work (???) he answered they gave 12 month guarantee. I gave him 500 and went in doubts. Funny thing the weld got cracked after a year and two weeks... What really surprized me than was that sure really poor fix worked for that long on a daily running vehicle with an engine which manifolds had tendency to crack

Thanks. I do belive 14 inch would work fine for 445's. But have worries on good fit of 385 on them. If you have a minute check out the blue truck. No rush with that.

Welcome to BMT! Plenty of "nuts", I mean truck nuts are here. I personally have a R-model for fun. Cruise it from time to time when the weather's good and don't see anything wrong with that. Also I'm pretty sure a man should not be selfish. If you have fun it's good when you also give some fun to your neighbours. Ha-ha Vlad

The 5.55 is a figure I also came along. Those are installed in the DMM I accuired a few years back. Unfortunately I haven't been able to do much with the truck. The cab was removed for transportation (not by me) ans some damage to air lines and other small stuff was done. Also the bab itself needs some fix and paint so it seems as a shame to put it back on the chassis in a shape it currently is in. The truck is equipped with EM6-285 and T2060 which has the same hi range ratios as T2070 or T2080. BTW DMM has 445/65 at the front and I could found wide Budd wheels to fit the same type of tyres to the rears. So gonna be a hot looking unit when it's done. A question - do you have an idea on the width of the front rims both of your RD and DM have? I'm curious on what size would work for 385/65? It's very common tyre size in Euroope for the most trailers which have 3 axles at the rear and ride on 6 such wheels. Also many tractors have them at the steer axle. But they all mounts on "Budd" style wheels. I type it this way since European wheels have different bolt pattern, actually larger stud circle so those wheels don't seem correctly called Budds. Ok, no matter, those wheels are 11.75 wide and I belive American wheels of that width don't exist.

Unfortunately no. That turbo base is asymmetrical in 3 direction. Has offset to a side and to the rear with turbo flange biased. So ways are a custom weld new part or to find a used one off a Mack. I will add pics of the parts taken off the engine. Was going to but found out I forgot to take them off my phone. What kind of intercoolers that tank setup utilizes? Are they water cooled or air ventilated by a tip turbine or other way?

Very interesting plan. Weight distribution will be sufficiently improved I suppose. Good luck on the build up.

Thanks for pointing the pressure change timing advance. Good thing there's known prcatice in doing that. I knew the matter but didn't know the exact aproach. Also I didn't keep in mind the E9 injection pressure. Suspected it was a 130 bar ballpark so the 300 figure appeared doubtful. 50 bar increase doesn't seem really extremal and adding 2 degrees to the injection advance would smooth the things up I belive. A side question - what are you going to do with a "turbo base" - a section of the stock exhaust manifold the turbo attaches to? I see the tank setup has its original part there and you removed the stock piece. The reason I ask (may be interested to someone) is Renault engine has the turbo mounted backwards. You have intake at the right and exhaust at the left. Once I first noted that I thought the base was just tured over but when I got the parts in my hands I found that it was a different part and you need one off a Mack to correctly fit the engine in a Mack. No strong need for that at the moment and a tip on where to look for instead of the actual item would either work for me.

Not a big issue with those top threads damaged since the delivery valve holders are easy to swap. I just recieved the socket to drive them off today. Going to free up a plunger in Bosch pump on DM truck I bought last week. The holders are tight torqued since there's lapped surface at their bottom side to fit against the delivery valve seats. Not a gasket as some older pumps had or copper washers I once swapped in smaller Bosch pump on my Mercedes OM606 engine. Also I had been to a diesel parts shop the other weekend and saw those holders new aftermarket. They're nearly $4 apiece and looked good. I was going to grab a couple just for spares but deeper investigation showed the outer thread was of larger OD. I could remachine them to fit but saw no sence since I had a complete spare pump for parts. Honestly I have big attraction to chrome plate a set of those holders together with a few other small pieces of the pump.

I have a T2070 laying in a shop. Seems nothing extraordinar to put it in there. I even have offset shift lever off a DM for it. That tranny has 4th direct but also 0.60 over which would improve highway performance sufficiently. Two speeds of the low range would work no worse than the Lo in the 6-speed at my suggestion. So the main issue is the time you need to put your hands on those bolts and nuts.

Shakes happen by bumps down any road and if you keep the track it means you're settled well in the saddle. Thanks for continue discussing the subject.

Paul, any outsourcing is one more weak link. So as closer you put as more chances you would grab it back. Easy fix for the uploading space is opening My Attachments (sorry to drill that same hole once again) and click Sort by file size. Too probably you will see a few large attachments you made many years ago paying no attention to the size since it didn't matter at that time. Deleting just 2 or 3 of 1Mb files would already allow you to upload 30-40 pics resized to 70-100Kb. So you will be Ok for no less that a few weeks posting. Deleting files from threads doesn't take time and uploading tiny images takes a little. An issue could be if you don't have an image in your computer so have to first download it from the forum. That would take some time indeed. But on the other hand it's a good deal since if you found you lost some picture you download it back from the site.

I reached that same issue at a certain time in the past. After I figured what happened I made some clean up and being Ok since. If you open your profile you can see My Attachments folder. There are all images and video you ever uploaded on the site with their size and a name of the thread they were posted in. Usually they listed by the time posted but there are othe sort options including the size. I checked what I had of heavy files and found a lot of old pics I loaded in the past in their original size. 2-3Kb and so. I than opened those old threads and edited my posts. Just deleted a few old and not really interesting images but didn't want to butcher many old discussions especially with many likes to the pictures posted. So I found those files in my computer, resized them and uploaded in place of big old pics which I deleted at the same time. Took me 2 or 3 evenings to tinker and I freed very sufficient amount of uploading space. From my observation a picture of nearly 100kb looks quite good on a screen. So not much need uploading heavier files. Many folks would think to themselves that's a kind of extremely routine job and I was not an excemption. But after I started I found it very interesting since you open very old posts which move you back in time and bring memories.

James, the specs of the truck make me cry. When I first saw it and looked below the chassis the tranny seemed to me as T100 series so I (a stupid) got expecting it as 10 or 12 speed. But when I took it home and wire brushed the stamping it turned out X107A what meant the old 6-speed with the top direct. Brushed the carrier and the mark of 5.32 showed up. What the hell! I just even don't want to figure the top speed of that beast riding on 11.00R20 rears... Probably something like 75-80 km/h or 45-50MPH. The chassis is a 3/8 double frame in very good condition (was covered with the van body the most of its life) and I belive 20,000 front axle judging by the hub style. Camelback rears of 44,000 and EM6-300 4V engine under the hood. The Turks had a few tractors based on the same chassis, just a bit shorter and towed low boy trailers. I suppose my truck was originally specified for a similar kind of job but turned out converted into a service vehicle.

From what you tell it's some sliding clutch and a gear wheel the clutch mates to. Having either no forward and reverse my suggestion is it's not the compound gearbox where the tranny shifts into Lo OR Reverse. If so it means that's the splitter which is assembled in the front portion of the tranny and provides torque to the rest of the gears. The cost of the fix is a gear ($400?) and a sliding clutch ($150?) plus removing the tranny and taking it apart. Personally I never got into a 12 speed and my suggestions are based on the theory. Too probably someone else will give you more exact advices and correct my statements if I'm wrong.

Very interesting and no doubt worthy. Thanks. But I still have a look at the things from another angle. My idea is not to compete with trucks but with cars. Actually no trucks in the country to compete with. So fun seems doing surprizing driving in the street. Something of a kind nobody expect from a truck. This way the idea of having top RPM's of 4000 looks as the basic point. Maybe I'm wrong and have open mind for arguments. So at this point I wonder what engine parts should I have to spin the engine that high? The tranny I'm going to couple to the E9 is not T2180. I grabbed T1070 (or TXTLT ?) by a lucky chance and it seems to me that's a perfect unit for my task. You can split it when want to cruise at a certain speed but can shift it through large steps with no splitting. Seems like not a trouble to having high RPM's limit. Another option I have and would go with if have no 12 speed is T2070. It also has long shifts and easy to drive in a tight traffic. I currently have such transmission installed in my R-model. It doesn't suit Econodyne engine really fine but actually the only trouble I have with it is a large hole between the direct and OD. Besides that it's pretty easy driving setup. You can start from 2nd high (a bit lower that 1st high in T2180 or T2090), shift it into 3rd and than into direct. This allows you to drive up to nearly 80km/h comfortable and up to 100km/h or 60MPH if you want. So common drive (sure bobtail) can be provided making just 2 shifts. And currently I have the pump set up to 1800RPM and the engine is 350 HP in-line not V8. If I could find a T2180 unit I wouldn't use it in any of my trucks excepting if I plan moving heavy machinery on a low boy. Instead of that I would couple the rear section of T2180 (with the splitter) to T2060/2070/2080 main box. This would bring me long steps for a city or hot rodding and possibility to split in the cases you need it. Actually it would make a kind of T2070 twelve speed in T200 family. IDK why Mack didn't produce such setup. Probably because of different tendency in the trucking industy at the time. 300 bar injectors set to? Sounds very high and that would move the ignition point far backwards along the crank angle due to the plungers leak. What is the standard E9 injector crack pressure? Maybe I'm too panic and 300 bar doesn't offset much? Intersting point on the valve springs shims. Never heard about. I was told of tungsten washers holding the springs but never saw in real. Looks like not a trouble to make if any reason to. Good points on the clutch and the turbo. Is turbo just a pay and get deal or a custom job? Swapping plungers or a cam in a pump is not a trouble overhere. There's a guy who makes such works. Sure having a test bench etc. Personally I had one Mack pump disassembled, sandblasted (!) and painted the body, than reassembled and even calibrated (to some grade) with no bench. The engine was on a stand when I worked with the pump. So I put 2 more marks on the flywheel to see OT for not only 1st but 2nd, 3rd etc cylinders and set plunger closing angles. Also you can see the moment a plunger opens the input hole which means the angle of ending the injection. So you can set the stroke delivery by that observation. Not actual dynamical delivery but at least geometrical. Unfortunately I didn't know the condition of the pump (it was 70+ yo at the time) so brang it to the shop and put on a bench anyway. The guy corrected 2 plungers adding stroke length and checked the maximum delivery which was found set wrong (20% less than the spec). But he definitely got surprized from what he observed at the bench after hearing what I told I made to the pump Special thanks for the pump type tips. I will do my research on the Iveco pump. Too probably it's possible to find such unit here and use its plungers (and the cam shaft?) in E9 pump housing but so far I'm not sure I will need 13mm barrels.

That's cool. I'm glad to hear of anybody enjoying my posts. Mentioning Ukraine I personally don't like the way of things my country currently gets into relating that country but I would like to keep away from political discussions. Sorry no good photos of the wrecker excepting the posted ones. I described the most I could about the truck in the post above.

No, I'm a local aborigen. Never lived in the States. Just got lucky attending Macungie show a couple of times and that was about all my US experience. The wrecker was a single axle roll off truck which also had hydraulic arm to put under a front axle for towing. It's called "brill" here for some reason. So the truck could transport light vehicles on its bad and tow heavier ones at the same time. The driver said that Scania was originally a car transporter tractor-trailer and was refurbished into the current shape by a shop. Honestly I got surprized when the driver said he was eager to tow the Mack since it was definitely heavy for that wrecker. But he gave my attractive cost and it was his business not mine. Also a good point was the wrecker wasn't long. There's a sharp corner when you're entering my street and he had better chances to slick into the curve than a bigger size unit. I had a MH-model purchased a few years back and it was delivered by a wrecker. It didn't go into my street and I had to pull the MH with a rope by my 4x4. Speaking about Macks in Russia they are really scarce. Putting aside a hundered or so Visions/Pinnacles you can count the rest of rigs using your fingers. Actually I do it from time to time. Of the rigs known there were nearly 10 R-models, 30-40 DM's, 7 or 8 MH's, 10 or so newer RD's, 3 known DMM's, 10 or so CH's, 4 CL's, 10 or 20 CS, a couple of MS, 1 Cruiseliner, 10 or so MR concrete pump units. There was a lot of nearly 700 NR-models supplied Under Lend-Lease in 43-45 but only one chassis survived. Visions continue working. The same with a few CH's. A few DM's must be still in operation together with 3 known R's. The same with MR's and RD's. I think 2 or 3 CS are still alive. 1 MH showed up in Vladivostok but I don't know if it still exists. 2 more are in my yard. Also 2 R's, WS, one DMM, the NR... Now the DM too. So I belive no less than 50% of historical Macks in the country are in my collection now

Mike, I hope I will make a few more long journeys in my life. Sometimes you just should force yourself to do crazy things to fill up the life with bright colors. Although the trip was short I made a few pics down the road anyway. Mack didn't have any lights at the rear (someone found another use for them) and to my surprize the wrecker guy didn't have a light panel to temporary install on a towed vehicle. So I preferred to follow him all the way being that light panel.

Thank you Keith. Yes, honestly I hate the look of the front wheels of DM when narrow 20 inch wheels are fitted on spoke hubs. So strongly going to put something wider and with positive offset. I'm thinking of 385/65R22.5 so far but found out Dayton rims wider than 8.25" is hens teeth in my part of the world. The only option I found so far is a set of 14" wide rims somewhere in Siberia and they asked nearly $1K for 6 rusty barrels. 14inch seems to wide for my blood and another possibility seen is cutting centers off 11.75 trailer wheels which are pretty common here and weld in a fitting ring off 8.25 Daytons. Big lathe is needed to do this job and and all those spoken wheels to buy. So looks like an entertainment you should get prepaired for and much better to avoid it at all purchasing ready rims instead. You're right, now we have more than one smilar truck in common. And you seem having the most kinds of the Mack "softnousers"

The story is there's Turkish construction company which built alot in Moscow during 90's and 2000's including a borough of skyscrappers which was named Moscow City. They brang a fleet of Mack trucks from Turkey and used them for moving machinery and transporting concrete (those were mixers). All the trucks were painted yellow or amber and were either DM686 and DM690. I don't know the exact number of the Macks but to my understanding it was 30 or so trucks. You could see them driving in Moscow in 90's which was no doubt uncommon and impressive sight. Years flew and closer to 2010-2012 the trucks dissapeared. The last time I saw one was in 2010. Once I even googled the company address and called the office. The guy redirected me to their transport department and the manager told me they had one or two Macks parked in a yard. Promised to call me back when they would figure to sell them off but it never happened. I was not really eager to purchase a DM and was partly happy having an excuse to not gab one more boat anchor to add to my fleet of projects. A few years passed by and a week back a friend texted me with photos of yellow DM and a phone number. I immediatelly got excited by the look of the rig and also by the van body installed on it. If I bring the truck back to life it could be used as a camper and if not (as long as it wouldn't) I could use it as a storage. So I made a call and the guy explained the company cleaned the yard indeed and they were going to set the price. A few days later he called me back and declared the cost. It sounded higher than would be reasonable for a non-running truck nobody needs for job but my argumentation was declined by "sells for that or... scrap?" Actually it was nearly 1.5 times of the scrap cost so I figured it was just money and not really big money. And I had a spot in my property... I could make free selling my GAZ-66 truck which didn't run for the last 15 years and was parked because of its military van body I used as a storage. So the puzzle achieved shape. You know when you assemble a puzzle you want a nice picture. I wasn't the exception. Further story was realitively fast. To my pleasure the truck was parked locally. Just 40 or so km from my place. Absolutely surprizingly! I didn't need to drive 1 or 2 thousand km to get it home! The issue was the van body heigth so I had to look for a wrecker not a low boy. Turned out the qutes were very reasonable and I got the Mack parked near my place in a few days. We had to remove the prop shaft to prevent the tranny from spinning. IDK how it was critical for towing just 40km/25 miles with 60km/h top speed so figured I wouldn't experiment. Bad thing the wrecker couldn't get into my gates with the DM hooked so I had to park the latter in the street. The most right way was seemed to fire the engine up, reinstall the prop shaft and drive it in. I connected two fresh batteries, checked fuel in the tank, hand primed and made a few attempts to crank. Having no luck I took a can with diesel and primed by electric pump. After a minute or so of cranking I heard sparks and in 30 seconds it fired up. Fun strated after I tried to accelerate by the pump lever and having no reaction I tried to shut it off. No reaction!!! Honestly I was prepaired for such the scenario. Grabbed a piece of plywoood and closed the intake pipe. Turned out a couple of small air lines were found dissconnected and the engine continued to spin sucking air through them. Ok, we removed the supply hose from the can and after about a minute of consuming the content of injection pump it rest in peace. Further investigation showed the rack stuck due to 2 stuck plungers. That's a Bosch pump and it didn't have a side cover to get to the plunger tappets. So turned out as a not really simple story but that's another story I'm currently in.