Vladislav

That Autocar firetruck is a bomber. Even more looks like a Packard than Autocar.

Looks like a not really warm day. And I see no rain. Anything wrong with the weather? Or with my understanding of 10 really hot months and two wet ones?

WoW! Thanks. A few familiar trucks but plenty of unseen ones.

Isn't this the case? https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/56715-1985-superliner/

Would be interesting to connect an oscillograph to the sensor put either in cast iron and alu housing and watch for actual signal shape. I personally have never done such checks but my dad was all over that matter at his job.

Paul, if you ever have one of those big covers off again it would be a good activity to take a piece of pencil and paper and write the number of teeth each of the gears of the top set has. You can't count the lower set teeth as I pointed but having the top set figures you can "count out" the ratio knowing existing combo's. Just let me know if you have any interest in the figuring.

Yes, I have mechanical E7 and E6-350 with electronic tach and the sensor put in the flywheel housing. E7 has a cast iron one.

Might be a distance from the flywheel teeth to the sensor along the teeth length. I mean the sensor put further to the back of the truck or close to its front. Or another and more troublefull issue due to different magnetic properties of cast iron relating to aluminium.

I never heard about Mack 5.29 diffs. They were 5.32 or 5.13. If a real interest I'd jack up a tyre and count the prop shaft revs after spinning the wheel 10 or 20 turns. Another way is removing that big side cover off a carrier and make the teeth count. Sharp method but the issue you only can see the top gear set. No access to the bull gear excepting removing the carrier off the banjo.

I don't know how long is the trip you're going to make but the truck looks really nice and I'm sure you will be proud being with it at the show. Vlad

Great to hear! Wish you nice time at Macungie showgrounds.

Tom, thanks for these excellent truck pictures! I see the weather was perfect so hope the days worth the entry fee and the time. Anyway unexpected expence doesn't add pleasure to a event but hope you was fine then. I miss nice looking restored trucks being not able to attend shows for all these Covid months so it's real pleasure to watch your photos. Say hello to Zina from Florida. Ok, I meant say hello to Zina from Moscow. Oh nope, I mean say hello to Zina from Florida from me from Moscow. That would be right

Yup, as others said. Sometimes sh*t happens and when you go off such with no seriouse losses it may be count as a lucky turn out. Hope you will cover up the vehicle damage soon or at least make it roadworthy back again.

I also have a "wrong" 24 inch rim. It generally looks the same as the rest of the set but has slightly different style of the locking ring. The issue is it can't be fitted as an inner wheel. Doesn't go on the hub being a bit less in ID. You can fit it as an outer wheel but not for inner.

Unfortunately it's not of the same easyness as the pics above. Otherwise I wouldn't hide a rabbit in a hat. We de-dressed the cab for body works a couple years back and I made pics for re-assembly reference. Didn't photo the valve and brackets since didn't put my hands particulary on them (so far). We just put marks on them and packed in some cardboard box together with other stuff.

Ok, thank you for clearification. Sometimes it's difficult to figure the matter just by short description such as "8-speed" or so not dealing with it everyday.

Ok, my gray matter feels a bit more relaxed now since it's evening and it was morning when I typed that post. Actually the things are more complex. There are (at least) two styles of Mack 6-bolt axle shafts. One of them has slightly domed, about flat flange. About the same look as the 8-bolt flange but for 6 bolts. These shafts are made together with the flange. As one piece, the same as 8-bolt shaft. Another style has a cone look. Also 6 bolts (and the same pattern?) but the center gets outside sufficiently. Those "mushrooms" are a separate castings with inner splines. The shafts used with them are just straight shafts. One end in the differential and another in the mushroom-flange. Interesting point I have this style on my 1945 Mack and there are additional seals which installed right in the "mushrooms'. Ok, caps or flanges, never mind. The reason is they seal against the axle spindel end so oil from diff doesn't go to wheel bearings. And the bearings roll in grease. Not sure newer axles have such desingn either but the outer look of the flanges is almost similar. I belive 6-bolt flanges were used on 44000 pound axles and 8-bolt ones on 38000 and 34000 axles.

Isn't 8ll a Mack T2080 tranny? If so it shifts right after flipping. No pre-select.

R-models had both 5 or 6 spoke rear hubs and it depended on the weight rating. The bearings were different but some (many?) axle spindels were the same. Usually 6 bolt jack shaft flanges were used with heavier 6 spoke hubs and had floating shaft and that domed flange (cap) you see at the outside. 8 bolt shafts were made together with the flange. Many Macks of the era (80's) had the same size although other truck brands (non-Mack axles) had them different and the splines either. Also worth to point out I have aluminium budd hubs on a R-model with stud piloted Alcoas and 5 spoke Daytons on MH. Both have similar 8-bolt jack shafts and used the same bearings - 563/567 outer with 572/582 inner. But the seals (surprizingly) are different. Can not say anything about B-series. And how it looks to me your way is taking both hubs off the axles and check out everything.

R688 of 1988. Rectangular Hadley air horns. That's the way I saw it when we took the headliner off prepping the cab for restoration. Your setup should be the same. Or definitely could be done this way even if it was different from the factory. Browsing flea bay listings I saw "Mack air horn valve" items and those looked similar to what I had in the truck. The part didn't seem unique to Mack and used by other truck makers.

Do you have 3 1/2 spicers over the other 3 wheels? I'd guess 3 1/2 is used with no additional spicer or for more narrow rim. Also I'd investigate the rims width both the original (old) one and the newly purchased. Including measuring the distance between its edge (tyre bed) and the inner (welded on) ring it gets against the inter rim spicer. Here all is about geometry. So could be found and worth to for having no further surprizes.

In such case I usually put some antifreeze in the upper radiator hose to fill it up getting the upper side of thermostat sunk. Than put the hose on radiator. When you start the engine that above amount of the fluid conducts heat and supplys it to thermostat so it opens. Usually when you observe the temp gauge during the first heat cycle the temp grows up and gets a little bit higher than normal and than drops down to Ok level in half a minute.

The front cover attachment (and the gasket) is the same. But actual covers may have differences. Depending on E7 modification there could be additional drillings or vice versa. I looked at photos of alu front covers removed from Renault Magnums with E7 (can't state the style of pump they had but doubly mechanical) and the covers seemed very similar to my alu E6 one but different. For example there was different fitment (or location) of the zero angle flag to set the crank. I'm sure I could use E7 front cover with some modifying if have no other options and have an original item for reference. Also there were different styles of E6 covers. They were steel and alu and also lower bolt holes were the same OD as upper ones on some engines and some had them thicker with larger threads in the block and corresponding holes in the cover. Those are exactly the bolts to attach the front mount you're figuring about. The front crank seal of E6 and E7 engines is different. Not ready to tell right now but IIRC that's about its ID. So the cranck hub must (or could) be different. Also I saw covers where the seal was pressed straight in the cover or there was removable flange you fit the seal in and than attach it to the cover body by 6 bolts. The seals ODs were different in that case. All in all it seems to me the swap you're going towards can be done and relatively easy. Just paying attention to every step and locating or remachining parts which wouldn't suit.

To me it looks like someone wanted to improve the look. At a certain time I had an idea to make something similar and attach Superliner grill at the front

Former owner of my R-model did such thing in the past. He just told me and I never saw the event myself. He said he put some fractures or so, probably used hex nuts between the peanuts ends and the outer cam. Blocked the divider that way and got the truck running. Probably for not too short distance and too probably with a semitrailer hooked. You need to remove a yoke and the front cover off the divider housing to get access to the spot. But would you want to get there or not seems as a big matter to consider.