Vladislav

Keep the flame alive Paul! And I think (and hope) it's impossible to get rid of youreslf.

I just tried my best to proof the reputation the site puts above a member's avatar

But really strange to see the spring. My truck has a wire which goes to the dash with a knob on. The same as the rack control setup. Hmm... That small "lee" at the left of the pic too looks like a clamp which was supposed to attach the wire sleeve in the past.

That's an emergency fuel shut-off valve. My WW2 Mack has it as stock equipement described in the factory manual and the parts book.

Nice to see! And being gloss black the cab already looks fine. A layer of a clear coat and a big save on the red paint?

Welcome to the forum! R688 with aluminium frame?

Definitely looks like a great time and a great show! Very glad for those guys who could visit or participate. And those who couldn't now can see it on the pictures. Thanks for taking the time and sharing so many of. Special thanks for W71 and 4WD MH.

If the truck is 55 or earlier it gives me idea on the chassis number location. In 53 it was stamped at the rear end of the chassis rail not at the front.

Yup, as said above. Could also be a timing gears issue, oil pump or any other part which is supposed to spin or move when you turn the crank shaft. And you won't be happy to get broken. Actually a END inline 6 is faster to get apart than figuring out on removing a part or another or just picturing the matter in mind. I mean inframe job, the heads and the pan.

I would sand up a little spot on the back side of the particular wheel with fine paper, mix what you have or going to apply and put a small drop on. Than when completely hard, after a few days or a week, I would try sanding the material off and notice how well it's got adhered to the surface. If Ok wash out the cracks with soapy water or acetone, dry with hot or compressed air and bite a bullet.

looks like the condition is good.

Very pleasant activity. And of a kind I really like. Made something like that with a Cruiseliner a few weeks back. With a difference I had the cranck spinned when was installing clutch before acting the starter. I got lucky with the starter after reconnecting jumper cables for a couple of hours. And even could start the engine (on the next day). But got an issue with the clutch not disengaging. Hope the greasing up you made would help. You typed "40km". Are you in Canada? Or anywhere else?

Acetone is not a good practice to add. It evaporates later and could "please" you up with such hairline cracks. Also I added acetone in the deep past into epoxy resin when made castings for modelbuilding. Wanted to minimize air bubbles decreasing surface film tension. And in 10 or so years later found out those castings became extremely brittle.

A while back I had luck purchasing a set of L-model hinges from Matt Pfahl at Bethlehem CT. Google Matt Pfahl restorations, he has web-site. A great guy and very helpful. P.S. L-model and B-model door hinges are almost different stories.

Sexy

Hope you're not going to kill it Sure kidding, congrats on the purchase. Vlad

This is an old pic someone posted somewhere in the past.

Wow! I'm prretty sure this internet-stolen picture was taken at that place. Thanks, marked on my travel book.

There was one W71 in Northwest Diesel yard indeed. But as long as I remember Mike never mentioned of purchasing it. I think there was a talk on purchasing the H but the deal didn't happen to happen.

Honestly it seems like no difference to me. Could be just imperfection of stamping.

There was a post a few years back telling that all the vehicles were gone off the Northwest Diesel yard. Also there were a couple of mentions on the H-model that showed up at another locating and than later at another place again. Some while after you posted this thread I made a phone call and spoke with Arden about the H. I even looked over a plan to visit the place and check out the truck when I was on my first US trip in 2013. But found out no time and power enough to so turned out I have never been there.

There's a prolongation of the steering column - a part that goes further to the firewall. It is attached to the firewall with nuts you can see from under the hood, actually the hood support brace attaching nuts, and also a pair of bolts which hold the column under the dash. I removed those attachment points and took the complete steering column off the cab. Than it's pretty easy to get access to the four bolts you was wondering about.

The turn light switch, trolley valve assembly, shifter lever knob and the steering wheel are definitely original and almost typical to Mack. Same for all the dash panels. The parking brake control to the left of the driver seat cushion is the most probably an aftermarket conversion.

The dash looks mostly original excepting the instruments. Those are usually seen of a different style. But of the same size excepting the speedo. One thing is for sure such dash is not typical to everything sold in USA, Canada or Europe. And to my mind Australia too. Not ready to tell about NZ. So the instruments could be possibly swapped during the service years or installed by the NZ assembly plant if they used such ones (I doubt on that though). So seems like a matter for further investigation keeping the focus of attention to NZ produced Macks. Or the instruments could be (easily?) swapped with units of the US type which are quite common and avalible from multiple sources including ebay.

Please do.