Vladislav

I never noted any special distancing between the trunnion stand and a crossmember to the front of it. More looks like Mack put them relatively even. And in many cases it even looks to me as they put those crossmembers anyway they wanted with just no logic. Some trucks have a prop shaft intermediate support installed on that next to the front crossmember but some alsao have it on the 2nd to the front one.

Ditto! As of me I'm having a difficulty choosing my favorite pic between the very 1st and very last ones. Thanks for posting.

As far as I remember (and I do it well) a person on here tried to purchase those parts new a few years back. It was possible but expensive. There also was a point in that story of Mack let him know he would need to order all 6 parts together if he wanted a match. Strange fact but turned out new parts were supplied as just black plastic no chrome. So if you buy all 6 you get a completely black grill, not a mix. Sure not too nice and doesn't suit tastes of many folks. If you dig the content of the forum really well you could find that old discussion.

Yes, that's correct. It takes the signal from a toothed wheel seated on the tranny exhaust shaft behind the rear cover. You need oscillograph to check its performance completely but can start with such easy test as just by checking its conductivity with a multimeter. There's a coil inside so should represent sertain resistance. If it doesn't conduct that means the wire is broken inside so the time to change with a new part. Another part of the story you might be having an issue in the speedo head in the dash. A buddy of mine had that in his 1999 Mack CH. Ended with fixing it by soldering iron but he's electronically inclined guy.

That's what brings me money. Those Kiev guys might be knowing me, I used to sell some parts that way. And you're sure right - fun to bomb around, especially in a forest or a swamp.

Wow! That old saying is true indeed of you never know what's behind the next corner. Many thanks for the link Jim. I hope I'll be helped out with my military Mack windshield frame. It has simple style but turns out not easy to duplicate or purchase.

That's true. I made test attempts with vinil tape but it looked ways off from what I was liked to achieve. Thank you for the comment.

In a couple of days the paint got relatively hard so I was able to took the cab from the shop and transport to my place. Made a couple of pics before putting it inside the shop. It will reqire polishing since stripe edges make clear coat uneven but I was going to do it much later when all the paint is set wery well. I had no hurry with that, plenty of work over the chassis and engine was planned ahead.

The time for the final paint has come. The cab was supposed to get stripes. Doors were painted much earlier as I liked to experiment with the color scheme and to have time to change it if dislike. They turned out well to my taste and I put them on the running truck. This time I had to remove them off there and put onto the cab being needing to correspond the stripes painted on it. To the time we arrived to the paint shop with the doors the painter applied a layer of silver base coat on the cab were the stripes were expected. After the doors were on and the gaps managed we applied plastic masking tape making countours for the future stripes. The matter of the tape was to cover the silver paint. After it was done the painter would mask everything excepting the areas supposed to be painted red. He than applied red base coat on them, went for drying, mask them up and remask the areas supposed to be painted gold. Put gold paint there, dry up, mask and remove all masking from areas supposed to be green. When green is applied and dry he would remove all the masking from everywhere and apply clear coat. There's a point the base metallic coats must be covered with clear coat no later than 48 hours. So not an eternity to play with colors and masking tape. That time my paint buddy did fine. He put silver in the evening and we started putting masking the next noon. He than went through red and gold down to the night, applied green in the morning and clear coated everything the next day. So all in all it took nearly 40 hours. I was invited to watch the result one day later. It was definitely a thrilling moment.

Now we are getting closer to the end of the story. Door openings were double primered because of weld spots applyed to the sills for attaching the rocker panels. Than seam sealer was layed and the openings painted.

Timmy, That's a good question. I spent some while figuring the best option to fit the strips. The matter was the roof had a kind of pocket at the rear and the front, a space above say rear wall top edge and windshield frame top edge. I bought a piece of 6x60mm steel stripe, just common construction steel, and bent it to put its rear end standing on that "shelf" of the rear wall top. Than it was bent following the roof curve getting off its surface gradually from rear to the front. I mean when you put the rear end in place the stripe gets as lower off the roof as further to the front making a gap. It was nearly 100mm of the gap at the front end. That way if you force the front end towards the roof and finally having all the stripe contacting it you have to apply sufficient impact to it, something like you can apply with both your hands. The roof gets supported quite well at the time but you need to lock the front end some way. For that I cut the stripe so you can pass the windshield frame top and drilled two holes near the front end. Drilled threads in the holes and cut two steel squares (shims?) off a piece of the stripe stock. Drilled two holes in each shim. Than when you force the support stripe to get place at the front you use pry bar to get it higher than the windscreen top, put the shim to its bottom side and onto the windscreen and attach it to the stripe end with two screws. Releasing the stripe you get its front end landing on the windshield frame top and applying tension to the roof sheet. When I bent first stripe I managed its curve to apply maximum force to the roof where it seemed to be needed. Spent nearly 40 minutes for the 1st stripe and than 20 to duplicate it for the other side. The 1st picture shows a test fitted stripe with just a piece of steel to lock the front end in place. The 2nd one was made after all was assembled by the final design. I also added two cross braces to support the center. Drilled holes in the stripes, put screws with blind heads in them and welded over. Sure ground off the excess. Than when the stripes were in place I was able to put braces onto the studs (former screws) by means of holes drilled and attach with nuts. Put plastic shims between the braces and the roof sheet to compensate the thickness of the stripes.

Wow! That's funny. i never knew the guy shared his tiny scale sculptures on the net. Seems not difficult to figure out which truck he used as an origin to built the model.

A real pleasure to see! Thank you for posting all the thread.

Thank you Tom. Seems like it's never too late

Yes, we did

Looks like 864 to me and more powerful but I might be wrong. The engine could be easily stuck from sitting outside for 20 years. I also think 3 scrap costs to start from. If asking more they should have at least starting the engine and make the truck moving over the yard. The rare model together with rare old V8 engine seems as an interesting resto object as long as you're wanting a toy. And ready to invest in fixing it. If any practical use a straight six engine seems much easier to deal with. And bringing V8 back to life might cost sufficiently more than just finding a different (and running) R-model of similar type but more commonly specified. The rear part of R-model chassis was mostly identical during the years of production (same distance between frame rails) so the most any bogie could be swapped by a matter of redrilling mounting holes only.

That's exciting. So far I'm not ready to make a solid truck purchase from overseas but Superliners continue making my mooth water. In fact I have two big resto projects undergoing for multiple years so it makes sence to first finish them instead of multipliyng future tasks. Let's see.

Finally the time has come to put the cab the floor side down. I.e. in its normal position. The rest of old green paint was sanded off the rear wall (where I didn't blast it because of the cab was laying on its back at the blasting time) than covered with primer. The next step was a sign of light in the end of the tunnel when the roof got painted.

That's almost true. Also I like to go through such job since I'm not a body guy and would like to set up new skills.So far I can say I like this kind of work and seems there's field to apply some engeunity to. Thanks for the comments.

The engine side of the firewall covered with spray sealer and painted grey metallic as it was from the factory. To be true factory paint was matt but I made it gloss. Looks good on my mind and seems easier to remove dust or dirt.

A bit of update. The cowl lower reinforcing plank installed, panel seams covered with polyurethane sealer, the inner side of the floor sprayed with sealer and painted black.

I doubt you can still order brand new R-model cabs (RD for square hood is different). Also if you would I'd expect its worth of 10 grand or more. And actually if you want to make it really nice (show quality) i.e. paint it well and to a color you like, make good rust protection and other preferrable modifications you would need to apply about a half of the above jobs to it. In fact the work didn't cost as much as you would pay for it in the US.because labour is much cheaper here. Maybe even not labout itself but you don't add taxes, business insurance and other sufficient costs which your country's economy redirect to supply state and social needs.

Absolutely true!

Is the RW tandem? Looked like a single axle on the pics you posted. Or the 2nd axle was just grown into the weeds?

So what are they? A factory option?