Vladislav

Parker 266-8 (black braid) or 206-8 (blue braid) looks like a good option. Its original purpose is air brake hose but it's declared also as for fuel, oil, power steering and even air conditioning lines. So must be resistant to very high pressures and aggressive fluids. And if you install it with reusable fittings (as was recommended and described above) you will achieve the original look regarding to your truck (and mine too)

From what I could see in the video the truck has R-model frame rails with typical R-model front spring hangers and cab mounts. But the radiator core is tiny indeed. Neat looking old R-model and definitely a great piece of trucking history! Thanks for sharing.

If you try setting backlash or play away from the dead center you will so get overtightness in the center. Actually you may be finding the tightest spot over the box range (near the center) and than relate it to the marks on the housing. Where you are tight and near the center is the spot for the setting. There may be cases (I don't know particulary with Ross but expect so) a steering gear may be assembled wrong during repair in the past. That way the dead center may be not where a mark of it on the housing is. And it's a headach with installation of such a gear and setting its tightness too. Speaking excessive play the most modern steering gears are double reduction. You could check that out regarding Ross by its blow out or cut through diagramm in a manual or on the net. If so the pay may be determined not by the teeth sector only but also by a screw/nut. Usually that mesh is not adjustable and occures play due to wear of mating parts. With way of fixing by change of them.

For more than 10 years I kept my eyes open for such the diagram, My truck is 1988 (1989 model year) R688. And I didn't have any luck. There's a "R-model wiring diagram" as a black and white electric scheme you can find on this site or elsewhere on the net. But that one is for earlier year's R's and doesn't correspond much to what you have in your truck.

Wonder didn't the parts dept printed it in a print shop while you have had your waiting time and than put in that solenoid-free bag? Sure kidding. Congrats on the purchase of the piece of happiness!

So soon!... We have the school year starting from 1st of September. Summer passes by that fast you need more free time enjoying it! Hope he will study well so could use weekends for the shop activities

No, that's a different swich. That one switches main engine air intake. From normal way through the cap of the filter canister to from under the hood area via that second pipe at the canister. For cold weather operation as it is subscribed somewhere (in the truck?) and that seems as a Canadian thingy. So that second pipe on (that Canadian style) filter housing is NOT for the tip turbine. This way the scoop in the hood works its role. Asking the original question. No, Maxidyne tip turbine was way far from not the only engine option used on R's/RD's. Plenty of different Mack engines installed during 4 decades of production starting from Thermodyne gassers and ending with Mack 4 valve E6 and E7 (in the restyled RD's). Also engines of different brends could be used including such exotic as two stroke Detroit Diesels and Chrysler gas V8's. And if you want to learn as much as possible on your Mack truck the best (and the only?) way is reading this forum! Personally tested

Wow! For 1:50 they're amazing!

The shift linkages of MH and Criseliner have about nothing in common. Excepting both have the lever separated from the tower when the cab is up and both use a U-joint. The matter of difficulties with shifting may be due to worn out linkage (you aren't able to find the spot where you shift into a certain gear) or due to worn out sliding clutches/mating teeth in the tranny gear wheels. This second way you have grinding in the gear change moments. Shifing Mack trannies require special skill which could be obtained by practice. I tell this as a guy who has never had experience driving American truck or another non-synchro transmission before appeared by the wheel of my 1st Mack truck. Now I understand that transmission had hard wear on the noted above parts but anyway could be shifted smooth if you know particular moments to get into a particular gear.

Awesome! Which scale are they in? 1:34?

3/4 of the hell I would do With some grease on the cone.

The boot is a trouble to locate. It was awalible from PAI a couple years ago (and wasn't cheap) but later turned discontinued. I would like to grab one or two NOS myself but got no luck so far. The part # is 95RU32 or PAI AOS-9946.

Looks like the time to start shaping it up. Or about that. You may be using a side grinding wheel with a corner grinder at the 1st stage. Way not that smooth as an orbital sender but much more progressive. Just get off one small spot and make a check out with a ruler or so. Than get to a neighbouring area if needed. Possibly is working with an orbital sender a bit to see big hills than grind them off with a grinder and do a test smooth up with the orbital sender again. And so on. Sorry for the spiders to be killed. I sure mean much more sorry for the time killed on that deal. I don't know though if they're poisonous or not.

Wood chiesel?? I was easily satisfied with a car style tyre braking bar Sure couldn't avoid that swedish wrench.

I used to pull the hand throttle up a bit incresing idle and it stopped bouncing with revs. Would love to hear any results of experience tinkering with Ambac E6 pump though.

Thank you. Sorry to bother with my needs.

As said above. That's a plug nut in the end of the rod secured by a cotter pin. Remove it and try turning the nut clockwise. You need a kind of still plate to insert into the recess in the nut to turn it. Pretty easy deal at all if the nut isn't stuck really hard due to rust. And probably no simple way to install a "tie rod style" drag link as you called it. You need another Pitman arm with a conical hole to suit the ball stud. And I doubt it even existed for this style of the steering box. Might be though.

I calibrated a pump that way. And when it happened to put it on a bench later for another reason the guy was veeery surprized.

What is the source of those cooper split nails (or rivets)? I'm close to be needing a set. And one more point - which width of the lacing did you use for your truck? The results look excellent by the way

You need a portion of an injector line, actually an old line of any kind suitable to be installed onto the pump in place of the stock line. You need to cut that "donor" line into halves and bend one half the shape like what you have in your kitchen sunk. Just to not drain water but fuel. Than you install the crank shaft to the desirable timing point and do the follow: remove #1 injection line from the pump, remove the top section of what seems as the plunger housing. That nipple is a so called "delivery valve housing". The idea is there's a kind of check valve above the plunger which doesn't allow pressurized fuel to drain back into the plunger barrel when injection stroke is finished. That valve is also spring loaded to operate faster. All in all you need to unscrew its housing, remove the valve stem and its spring from there (precision parts) than install the housing back and attach the bent pipe to it. Than you check the timing point. You start pumping low pressure side with a had prime pump (or find another was if you dont have it). Low pressure travels inside the pump housing gallery filling up the plunger barrels, actually those in which plungers are in their low position. But fuel can't go any further since there's that delivery valve on its way (and further an injection line blocked by a injector. You have #1 valve removed and the line disconnected from the injector (and attached that portion of a free line). Ok, you pump, fuel comes into the #1 plunger barrel... And in a case the plunger is low the fuel goes up to the free pipe and drains outside into a can you put there to not have it on the ground. IF the plunger is upper at a certain point it closes a hole in the barrel wall low pressure fuel fills the barrel through. And nothing drains from the pipe. Actually at the time the plunger on its way up closes that hole you have initiation of injection (on the normal operation) since the fuel can't go back into the gallery and is forsed to go up to the injector (opening the delivery valve and a needle valve in the injector). So when you check the injection point you play with position of the pump and observe the fuel draining from the free pipe or not draining. That's because the plunger closes or opens the supply hole in its barrel.The point where the fuel flow shuts down is the begining of injection of #1 plunger. Worth to add two points. First this is the method an injection pump is calibrated on a bench. So much sharper and truer than any test light and so on. Second, you better look into some older book where all that is described to get better figuring. And you also need to check out the way of removing delivery valve in a Bosch pump I can't recall particulary at the moment. Good luck!

It depends on the load capacity. I can judge by 80's years trucks and earlier times. Camelbacks of 38000 and lighter didn't have that traverse rod, only two from carriers to the central stand. A couple suspensions I have with thick spring leaves and brass trunnion bushings, my guess is #44000 are equipped with one transverse rod, at the RR carrier. the trucks are '88 DMM and "91 RD with heavy frame. Also I don't remember seeing Camelbacks with transverse rods to both carriers. Air rides have them but that's a different story.

That ws my first thought. On the other hand if you try figuring amount of job and time involved into fixing of an old rusty cab the asking cost may turn out equal and saving time. But a coin has 3 sides. The 3rd is this hobby exists until people want to spend their time, attention and money for old iron. And they would do until if's affordable to some certain suitable grade. Otherwise if you initially know you will never be able to restore an old rig you wouldn't even start the deal. And no interest in spares and accesories no matter how perfect in shape and quality they are.

One more L-model cab showed up for sale. On flea-bay this time. Way not cheap on my mind. https://www.ebay.com/itm/275845303425?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160811114145%26meid%3D15489ef1416c4795b7fb60b9c05141ab%26pid%3D100667%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D275715246193%26itm%3D275845303425%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2351460%26brand%3DMack&_trksid=p2351460.c100667.m2042

A cool collection of toys to spend Sunday with! Driving Mustang, edging the lawn or plastering the hood

A hole? No hole!