Vladislav

Update on the suggestions. The cab looks much more of a commercial L-model cab installed onto NM chassis. Front lower corner has a cutout for front fender as the most L's have but original NM cab has that spot boxed because of its special fender shape. Also the only part in green is the cab. Front sheet metal painted the same faded red as all the rest of the truck. So the most probably the cab was changed later and too possibly the truck went off the assembly line with a later series military open cab.

I have some feelings that Canadian factory way of arranging truck's setup could be involved. All my R's or even better to say all 5 SGT trucks imported to Russia were assembled in Oakville. And they didn't have plastic surrounds being 1988 year made. I might be wrong but it seems to me the most Macungie R's were equipped with those extra framings.

Just please PM me via the forum if you get a new catalog and I will reply with my address.

All those are relatively close to each other if looking from your neighbourhood. And the same way to arrange shipping and too probably the same cost (which is sure would be on my side to cover). The offer is very appreciated.In fact having no Mack parts list accessible I'm almost blind when figuring a correct part.

Ok, thank you for offering the help. If any real need I will disturb you by e-mail you once gave me for such reasons.

Agree, seems like that. Worth to admitt the original early plate you posted the picture of was made of aluminium and those new PAI ones are SS. Difficult to determine that until they're in your hands and I was very pleased when discower that (and a quite good look either) when purchased my set a few years back. Hope and suppose they still are made that style.

Rob, thank you for clearing me up on that clearance lights shut off option. Never knew that and all European or Russian made vehicles driving in my neck of the woods have nothing of such a function. So people thank each other by blinking warning lights. Here in Moscow I also could locate a few companies which can import PAI parts as their common business (if I have a part number) but purchasing original Mack part is a real headach. So PAI references are very helpful to me in many cases. Another point I'm not always sure a PAI part is made of the same good quality as an OEM original and they in most cases are not the same part. But so far I had no major issue with that.

Uupps! Never seen an R-model with the heater socket located that way. Otherwise you can use those PAI plates for this style of hood with tabs/framings.

No, DMM ones are different. They have light edges at the centers of the side lines. They're slightly wider in the middle section than at the top and bottom areas. Seem like been of its special to DMM hood style. There's at least one more known to me shape of those plates which was used on later series DM-models with the front of the hood offsettings forward to allow fitting intercooler. Those are shorter than the R-model ones and differ from DMM style either.

These look the way they must fit early Eastern R, early DM with a flat front and Eastern F-models. And I suppose quite difficult to find in new condition.

Good job! I wish you could get the perfect match on the interiour color. Speaking about the exterior I would advice to draw a simple picture of the truck using computer and than apply multiple colors and combos to get understanding on what you enjoy better. Thanks for the tip on that wiper air motor rebuild kit. I have electrical setup off a RD cab but using original old fashion air driven unit seems more authintic and interesting. Can you share the part # of that kit?

Ok, googled 1MR3380 and it crosses to PAI MSW-4378.

Rob, Yes, that top left toggle switch with a longer stick was the 1st thing I got on my mind but I thought I figured that wrong since I knew it was for blinking by high beam. And had no idea it also does anything to the marker lights (and I still don't understand the reason to do that). Are you sure that PAI unit you mentioned is that longer handle one? More seemed to me it's another toggle swich which is located aside to the main one to switch the dash lights. That one has two positions - on and off.

Very sad to hear. To difficult to choose words for such a case. Unfortunately we all are guests in this world and at a sertain moment the time comes to everyone. Good to a person if he or she was honest going over the life and there are people who are thankful for the things the person has done for them. Rest In Peace.

The main hub bodies you have look in a quite good shape. Those Stemco 5 hole rims were also avalible new but I don't have the part# handy.

Nice look could be achieved if you paint a diamond plate and than sand off the paint on the tops of ribs.

In fact it took me 19 hours to get to the show. Many thanks for sharing.

Wow! A closed cab, early one! Drool, drool, drool!! Unfortunately I'm not ready to put my dogs in the fight. Already have a complete NM for 7 years now and couldn't get myself to start restoring it. The one in the add has a reasonable price tag on my mind.

PAI MSW-4378 switch is described as 2 positions and 6 connectors. Pretty sure the main light switch in an R-model is 3 position unit. It put headlights in operation when flipped up and probably park lights only when down.

One interesting article indeed. Thanks for sharing.

My resto experience gives me idea to prevent any potential rust since it can easily show up even before a project is finished

1988 should have a steel hinge plate with a tube welded to put 3/4" bolt is as an axle and a bolled "rod end" which comes into the chassis bracket with its stud. From my experience I suppose you will need a new Grade 5 bolt of the required length with nut since it usually gets worn in the middle and that ball joint which is known as Aurora bearing and could be found. My copybook tells me I looked for Aurora MM-12 with 3/4 bore and 3/4-16 RH thread (and that's right) but I remember I ended up with a similar part (or exactly that one?) which had a grease nippel as an option.

Nice job! How about to drill a hole and add a grease nippel to its end?

Trent, if you once find another such one with double cut outs and better somewhere coast sidey please let me know.

Sometimes it happens. Probably you have to pre-rotate them and than upload. I don't have such issue since I use computer, not a phone. RS are nice trucks. Vlad