Vladislav

Paul, those are very interesting files, put alot of light on the matter. Thanks. I see they note T2060A transmission in the list. Seems like it was done the same way (or even the same design?) as later T308 tranny. 6 speeds on the main stick require different top cover with one additional shift fork and a rail. All that seems done on T2060A. Wonder how the engeneers could put additional gear set into the main housing of the same size as a 5-speed unit had. And sure I wonder how the gear wheels are similar of the seating sizes to the shafts so I could take everything off two or three transmissions and play with until get dirty and upset. Let's see

That's what i keep in my mind. Originally my truck had T2090 and I would keep it but the sliding clutched got worn during the years of unexperienced driving. Locally I could find T2070 with 0.60 overdrive and put in the truck. Affordable but the gear spacing is up to 70% what is too much for Econodyne E6-350. Fast overdrive is good but one more gear between the direct and the over is required. My current idea is to try fixing the 9-speed using parts off the 7-speed but that newer 8-speed unit could make the deal too having the steps of nearly 60%.

Thanks the great Jim, that's what I was looking for. Interesting that the overall length of the transmission (798mm) is almost similar to T2090. The overgear ratio is also similar - 0.71. Definitely looks like T200 and T300 series have a lot of things in common. But too probably many parts of the content could be found different. Ok, my engeneering addiction gets my thoughts in direction of taking apart and combining/modifying everything I find on my way. This time its possible to install the unit as is since no modifications required to. The last point - I should find the reason

Your fabricator made a great job! At least as long as I can see it on my screen. So far I haven't found a shop which could made such 3D curves. The most of them are newly organized small companies with laser cutters and straight bending presses. Good thing they do exist though. Once again, thanks for the reference pics.

Good point on the bell housing, thank you. Actually the potential use is in a hobby truck. So not many miles are planned. This doesn't bring much worries on the input shaft cond too. As long as I know the engine was taken off just a week back. The matter of the rust seems the truck was parked with another issue (rears) for nealy 5 years as I was told. My main question at the moment is the ratios. Originally I had T2090 with 40% steps between the shifts and now T2070 installed with about 70% which is not what I like. So that unit with 6 speeds in the main box might be a compromize. Depending on the step lenthes and the top gear ratio.

About the same headach at me if anybody is of interest.

I am offered to buy such unit locally. The price tag is reasonable but I have no idea on the ratios, body length etc. It was removed from (as they said) 2004 DM dump truck with some kind of E7 engine.

Wow!! Looks much more exciting now! I'm sure you know what you do by my fingers will be kept crossed. What is the plan for that big 3" U-channel at the bottom of the back wall? Are you going to make a new one? Right at the moment I'm waiting for such part from fabrication but that one will be a straight piece. Hope to get it in the shape by cutting-welding-grinding. My new sills (or rockers?) are also in that order. At least I hope the shop folks will be able to bend what I have drawn

The thing I hope the most the truck will go to someone's collection being not taken to a set of really fresh parts or redone into a working horse to do commercial job as a tractor or dump.

On the other hand a day cab with that long wheelbase doesn't look like a typical MH tractor. And the milage is really small being proofed by the interior condition. They also announced a 18000 front axle.

That's really nice. Here special lights and sirens are property of the government services. And the authorities don't like concurence. As you know America and Russia are a bit different stories

In my country if you're going down the road with even DISABLED but still mounted red or blue light on the roof you would loose your licence for a year or two. Nice and interesting looking R.

By a chance I adopted a couple of pics of MH cement mixer from some trucks for sale site. It was Spanish if the memory serves.

Is that common to have a 9-speed transmission and a 38000 rears in a dump truck? Doesn't look like redone from a tractor but makes thoughts.

Ufff... Maybe it's nice when laying on a beach but I would better showel snow.

Ocassionally I found out that the most of Japanise heavy trucks use those 8 lug wheels. Here are many companies which import used wheels from Japan and for trucks either. I saw pairs of quite good 8.25x22.5 Alcoas for reasonable but had no need in them.

The picture "in red colors" (above) was taken by an owner of L-model firetruck whan he had an issue wth that brake light switch. That unit is relatively small, nearly 2.5" of the body size, a bit less than a quick release brake valve on modern trucks. Body has mounting holes and an airline attachment fitting of nearly 1/2" At the top of the body (looking at the picture) it has black plastic insert (plug) with two screws - wire trminals - sticking out. The most L-models have that switch mounted on the inside of the LH frame rail right to the right of the gearbox. The sopt you seldom research just using or basically fixing a truck. But if you investigate the area you will find it with not much efforts. It could be easily seen on the below picture to the left of the tranny especially if you zoom it in.

Directional light switch mounted on your steering column, you pull its lever when activate turning lights. Brake light switch is too probably mounted on the engine side of the firewall if your 95 Mack is model RD. Relatively easy to find since that's a kind of sensor mounted on the firewall an air line comes to and two wires attached to terminals with small nuts atop of. The switch is operated by air pressure when you apply the brakes. Sorry I have no idea on where such thing was located on CH, CL, MR etc since Mack produced many different trucks in 95. But i'm sure it operates the same way and its location could be found in the same area.

Definitely you don't need any rust as a structure element. So the way to go! Don't forget to catch dry weather on the back run. A light freeze is the best for the season.

The switch I need has metal body with plastic plug turned into at the top. There are electrical terminals in that plastic part and contacts mounted inside. The trouble I found the threads of a really thin thread were partly broken. So i worry to have the plug spitten at some time since full air pressure applied to it while braking. I would make a new plug but the threads are SAE and it should be hard plastic, not a metal part to provide insulation. In theory a metal ring could be made with a lathe having required threads outside and a kind of locking shoulder over inside circle to hold the plug in place. The latter should be machined either to allow clearance for the ring. In any case seems easier to find a solid part and just re-install the plastic since the body is blasted and painted a while back. The "red" picture - someone's valve on a L firetruck. The "khaky" pic - the body of my valve, rounded with a red circle. The thing seems being used in 40's years.

Nice!

i need a air brake light switch. Mounted below the driver's door on the inside of LH frame rail. sure if your L has air brakes. Also i would like to purchase a really solid steering wheel. But seems like a doubtful entertainment about the chances. Vlad

Good score on the classic car shots. Other Dog would give you Kodiakatronomy award for. That yellow R dump makes my mooth water.

I was also in need of 11.00-24 tube tyres since that size was original to my Mack. I didn't roam over United States checking out every tyre shop. So using interweb search bought what I could find locally. Those were 12.00R24 West Lake Chinese tyres. Unfortunately no experience riding on them so far since the truck is not ready. But from the outside observation and during mounting on rims no issue seemed. Another Chinese brand I'm familiar with is Aeolus. I bought a set of 2 steers and 8 drives and put them on a R-model. It's not a working truck and no many miles experience. But I drove it for 2 or 3 thousand km to the moment and at least can state they're round Also I can tell plenty of people here buy Aeolus, Triangle, Double Coin, West Lake and other brands and quite satisfy with them as long as I was answered asking. Sometimes I here "I'll buy a pair of Michelins for the steer and the rest of Chinese for the drives and the trailer."

Honestly i was holding my breath opening the thread since I thought you built one more model of a RS and this time a wrecker Nice truck.