Vladislav

Thank you for the reference pictures. I see your story is moving along. Glad to observe the pogress. Those side cowl panels also present on my cab. But of easier style having no vents. So the plan is to order them completely new. The issue seem the front and rear edges have double bend with small distance between. Locally the most of shops have limitation on the minimal distance between two bends. So my hope is on personal egeunity or just luck. So far I prepair to open the can of warms closer to the summer.

The ratio is just your choice now. I would take slower diffs for dump truck operation. More power to pull and slower to crawl. But you should also check your top speed when in the highest gear to cruise down the highway. So I would go with the lowest ratio which allows you to have reasonable revs cruising at the same time. For the best you should make calculations being based on your transmission top gear ratio, tire size and preferrable revs at the speed you would like to cruise. Look over the old threads in this section of the forum. The matter was discussed many times in the past.

Not the worst snowy day, isn't it? Best B-day wishes!

I heard the weather doesn't baby East Coast now. Hope you'll be able to keep the tarp in place. Like the idea and the size of the project. Just wonder how much of snow could such structure hold. Probably would collapse if I make something like that in my environment.

As I noted this past June roaming over Mack dealership yards "New rust free" is also not a rule.

Maybe. Also dependng of your location. I doubt you would get much more than the scrap cost. Maybe scrap+. Anyway it seems better to get the part a go to be used by someone than scrapped. A couple of pics would light the fire brighter.

Mack air operated power divider is almost the same the automatic power divider with additional option to full lock.

I like the Aussie hood look. The headlight are mounted lower on it. Also Aussie RW was built using R-model frame rails I have an extra set of. The cab used was also a stock R-model cab, not American Superliner one. I have a spare one either. So seems like one attractive idea to assemble a replica... with RH steering and dash to be correct All that would be a difficult deal if look the things real. In my situation seems more reasonable to buy a complete MH cabover and install R-model cab and US RW hood imported. I have a track on a couple such cabovers in the country. Another option is to find a good (and long enought) Superliner frame in the States and ship it in a container what costs reasonable. But right at the moment I try to avoid initiating this entertainment being sure I should finish two current big projects before. And those are taking critically lot of time. So no Superliner building so far. I only collected a RD cab, 12 speed gearbox, couple extra sets of rears, NOS bumper... Ok, never mind. No frame and hood so far

I like the idea to fill with rock and strap to a tractor wheel or a portable cncrete mixer barrel. To the moment I have done 4 steel truck tanks and the most thing I figured out of that the job is difficult and expensive. If you don't worry about the look of the weld seams or they allow by style reskin it with new sheet metal. I did two of them such way. Another (the 1st) pair was rocked and rolled what took alot of efforts including welding the holes which took their place after cleaning the rust and the result didn't seem perfect. So no I would go another path cutting a big hole in the back side and sandblasting the inside through. Than welding it back after.

Thanks, got it. Wonder how much would UPS estimate to ship a complete Aussie RW2 hood...

No need to chill the garage. In fact high humidity is usually in the areas people are living/breathing/cooking/washing. So if your garage doesn't have a lot of water such as wet flloor or snow from tires brought in the humidity is low there. Relating to a living room or just a summer time open air. Seems like when you don't bring any water in a room and heating operates the wapors go away. The cab you see on the picture is in the warm garage for a week to the moment and I saw no fresh rusty spots so far. I should admitt to complete the matter cast iron is more critical about air humidity that steel. And I even prefre to blast and paint brake drums in winter. They used to show initial rust just in 2-3 hours after being ultimately blasted on a hot sunny day. The cab was quite good at the time I put it in work. Excepting some rust in rocker panel seams you couldn't see from the outside and same of the seam where the floor is welded to the rear wall. The floor itsel had pretty much of thick surface rust being wet in the cab for years of outside storage. Also some stress cracks needed to be welded and the roof bent hard by people walking (or dancing?) on it. The reason seemed the cab was good 1st it's galvanized 2nd not too old being 1988 made. On the other hand I doubt the truck spent any day under roof until I put it in a garage to part out this past summer.

Doesn't sound nice. I used to step in such issue since the most parts I buy go from overseas. Do those Aussie flares fit US RW well? Australian and American Superliner hoods were different of the shape of fenders/ We discussed it once on here.

He even said you hello

Very interesting, thanks. Never knew they were designed for army.

Upps, looks I made some braided ways to see your trucks. Once again, they're nice. Love the L. And welcome to the gang! Vlad

The final result of the party

This past summer I spent a good while removing a cab from the 2nd R-model and stripped it down to the bare metal. Cut off all the spots rust showed its presence. Also by a chance I purchased a pair of NOS rocker panels so cut the old ones off either. For further job some good cleaning was knocking on the project's door so i started waiting for weather. The other week cloudy and snowy times finally changed to a light freeze with a bit of sunshining. The forecast predicted only two lucky days following each other so I didn't waste the chance. When you blast at freeze the air humidity is low. Even much lower than on a hot sunny summer day. So steel doesn't catch rust. Another issue is when you bring your parts into a warm room cold steel catches humidity from the inside air and makes condensation on its surface. So for the best you should cover the parts with film or cloth until they warm up to the inside temp or bring them in a shop or garage with low humidity. The best way I use is bringing them straigh to a pre-heated paint shop. Not this time since further metal works are planned. And 2nd time blasting after they're completed as a follow.

I like it as is. And the RM would be a fun to work play with either.

Installing two carriers of different ratios is a crime. And the result would be disaster. Too probably you will learn what the divider is very soon. Sorry to paint the picture in such dark colors but if the things are of the way you described you will get into serious dutch pretty fast. The failure of the diff gears or the power divider (which is also a part of a differential) will happen. Vlad

No, I resolved to move my preference on the chassis color. The body parts are going to be painted metallic and look darker then SGT green being exposed to the sun. I didn't want to have the chassis lighter than the cab so vent darker. I made the choice a couple of years back when started painting some parts of the chassis. Than later, in this year I finilly could purchase the factory records from Mack museum where the chassis color was marked as "lime". I felt a little bit of shame getting off the original in that moment. But later thought I had an excuse since I have two SGT R's. So maybe anoher one will be painted original. Maybe by somebody else

FWD???

The locker housings are from your neck of the woods. The carriers are original from another SGT R-model parted out locally. Had to buy two sets of bearings the interwheel diffs are turning in because of hard pitting on everything I had. The color was choosen as Mercedes Benz "Laub grun". But later I found out it was similar to RAL 6002 Laubgrun. Probably John Deere didn't go far away from MB about that. And Land Rover has something like that as a color of the emblem.

NLA for a while. All the trucks which had that badge leaved the assembly line long ago.

Wow! Jason, I had no idea of the things being such interesting at you. Was thinking you was doing the same as the East Coast relaxing crue which had no snow since the only storm in November. Yes, your forecast is right, -5C outside at the moment. Quite comfortable for the season and the least point we had so far was -18C for just a couple of days. Nearly 40 cm of the white stuff is laying on the ground though and no one time of melting since it showed its presence in November. The heater is not planned to the R since it's future is seemed as a sun bathing lady, hidden in a garage for a non-show season. But the divider lockout will be on duty.

Thank you, read the other thread.