bowtiebulldog

I have a LHS Door off of an R. It is all there. Just your standard door with glass. 100 bucks and it's yours. Located in Central Indiana. Call me at 765-661-2909 and please leave a message if interested. Thanks

Thanks for the info Rob. I do have several other parts that I would probably sell. All Maxidyne or R Model and a few Cruiseliner. Pumps, Dayton hubs, Pair of front Budd hubbs for Mack, LHS R door, Tip turbine setups, etc.

Rob, Yes it is on Budd Hubs. Studs. All studs were actually replaced about a year before I took it off. It does have inboard drums though.

I have a Radiator that was purchased BRAND NEW from Mack in 2004. This was a brand new core at the price of $1400.00. I built the radiator using my existing tanks which were thoroughly cleaned before installation. I parked the truck about 8 months after doing this. This is the offset forward core to accomadate a viscous fan hub, so you can change your belts without tilting the radiator forward or smashing the fins. I dont want to scrap it, but I'm tired of it sitting around. I am probably not going to build anymore Macks, so that is the reason for selling. It was in a 1977 R685ST, but I dont see any reason why it wouldn't fit any R 600 series, unsure if it would drop right in a 700. Located in Central Indiana. Please call my cell and leave a message....765-661-2909

I have a Factory Neway Air ride suspension clip from a 1982 Cruiseliner. Mack rears with 3.86 gears. Complete from forward crossmember back. Frame isn't in that good of shape, but suspension is in good shape. I had this clip on my International 4070B when I had it stretched out. I removed it and put it back to factory wheelbase to run Canada. I will sell this for scrap price, which is about $500.00. I don't want to scrap it because I don't believe in scrapping something that someone could use, but I'm not going to give it away. Located in Central Indiana, and I can push it up onto either a car trailer or a regular flatbed. If interested call my cell at..........765-661-2909 and please leave a message.

Yes, I am interested. Please send me a personal message so we may discuss further. Thanks, Mike

Well, I guess I stand corrected. I guess that is the difference between somebody that does it only on paper and somebody that actually does the real thing. I have stretched enough trucks in the last 20 years so I guess I will continue to do it the WRONG way.

Every truck I have stretched out I always measure front hub to rear hub. I stretched my first truck when I was 15 years old(a 1971 White Freightliner cabover) and I have always done that. I have never met anyone who stretches frames and uses that formula. In that case, 2 identical trucks with tandems, one a normal tandem and one a Canadian spread would be the same wheelbase.

I just received some flexible window seal for my doors on my Transtar. Great seals and worked perfect. The only thing I don't like about J.C. Whitney is there shipping times, they aren't the quickest shippers! But it is worth the wait for the price and the hard to find little things.

The proper, universal way to measure wheelbase is, The center of the steer axle hub to the center of the furthestmost rear axle hub center. Period.

You might want to try this simple check. Are your tank vents clean? It sounds like it could be a simple vent cleaning to fix your problem. If your tank vents are clogged, you will NOT draw fuel from the suck tank( right side ). You will draw just enough to run for a few minutes because everytime you open the system you give it air.

I use J C Whitney for all my window weatherstripping for the doors. They have a big selection of types and sizes. If you are not making a 100% resto truck, these are your best bet for the money

They came out of my 1982 Cruiseliner. 1800 Series driveline with a 1700 driveline in between the drives.

I have a set of 3:65's. I rebuilt the power divider and the thru-shaft last fall. They are even still in the truck so you could see them work. How much will you give me for them?