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mackaholic

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Everything posted by mackaholic

  1. $750. Engine has been open and in the weather for years, rust around the windshield frame, lots of good parts. In northern CA. PM for more info. Brad
  2. 865 or 866. Likely the later if the engine is original to the truck. If the data plate is still on the valve cover that would supply all the details.
  3. Not seeing it is good, not hearing it is even better. Getting harder to find.
  4. The old Man, the old cat and the old dog
  5. From the album: F Model at work

    The old man, the old cat and the old dog. All of them still working.
  6. From the album: F Model at work

    Believe it or not there are still some places in CA where you can go play in the woods.
  7. That's for the crossmember as it is in the picture. The ends will have to be machined to whatever width your frame is now and all the holes drilled.
  8. Since I started looking for parts for my LTLSW 10 years ago I've never run across one of these or even heard of one for sale. About 5 years ago I borrowed one from a friend who had disassembled his LTL for restoration with the intention of making a reproduction. I got the project restarted a couple months ago with some encouragement from a fellow BMT member who now owns and is restoring the donor truck and wants the original back. After years of thinking about it I finally got the finished product. Brand new castings of the LTL aluminum cab mount crossmember complete with part number. If there is any interest I do have the ability to make a few more. Not cheap though, $1300 a copy. I'm sure I've wasted money on more ridiculous things but I can't recall exactly what they are at this point. They are beautiful though. I think I have a better idea what my wife sees when she looks at jewelry now.
  9. I've got some of that stuff. PM sent.
  10. I've been looking for a set for my LTH for a couple of months now. I used the Webb website to find part numbers for some that should fit. You can search by any of the drum dimensions and maybe find something close. Good Luck.
  11. Left Elko, Nevada this morning headed east in mackdaddy's MH. Got the Aussies in tow as well. Had an E-9 race somewhere in the middle of nowhere and lost to that RH drive Valueliner. Somewhere out here I gotta give that driving on the right deal a go.
  12. Left Elko, Nevada this morning headed east in mackdaddy's MH. Got the Aussies in tow as well. Had an E-9 race somewhere in the middle of nowhere and lost to that RH drive Valueliner. Somewhere out here I gotta give that driving on the right deal a go.
  13. I ran across a 68' RL 700 out here in CA a couple of months ago. Had the low hood, Budds all around and a 8v detroit in it. Guy wanted $2000 for it not running. It even had the small door in the top of the hood at the front for checking the coolant without tilting the hood.
  14. I know what you're refering to but I don't know if they will interchange. You can alays pull them both apart and start measuring.
  15. Kelly, I have done a couple of swaps of later Mack brakes to early housings. One was our F-model with wedge brakes to s-cams, the other is a set of b-model housings with narrow shoes and rotochambers to spring brakes. For the wedge brakes, just the brake spiders (brackets that hold the shoes and s-cam shafts)needed to be changed. As long as they are Mack they should bolt on. You may need to switch them from side to side to get them to clear everything. The shoes were the same width so the wedge brake drums worked fine. The bolt paterns on the splined hubs are different than the one piece axle so they won't interchange. I'm over near Santa Rosa, CA if you ever get this far west and want to take a look at the conversion. There are 6-8 other LT's over here as well. Brad
  16. Nice looking LT, always good to see another Mack in CA. As for the drop ins, they should fit fine. Most of the locating takes place at the flange and on the ears at the bottom of the carrier, not with the holes so drilling them out shouldn't be a problem. I have even seen the later drop ins with 18? bolts used in the earlier housings. The only tough area is the through bolts. The later drop ins used bolts under the side cover instead of the long studs. If I remember correctly you have to tap the upper holes housing and put in larger bolts under the side covers and dummy bolts with nuts in the lower holes.
  17. I've been collecting parts for my LTL for several years and am getting close. I have the chance to get copies made of an original aluminum cab crossmember. They will be exact duplicates of the original down to the part numbers. The mounting holes will have to be drilled after casting. They will be about $1200 ea.(very pricey) but these are not available anywhere in any condition that I've been able to locate. Anyone else out there interested?
  18. Take a look on e-bay. There is a Mack/Waterous manual for sale, Item number: 330298725922. Looks like what you're after. Brad
  19. When I was in college there was a prof. who had a GMC pickup with a detroit in it. I don't know which model but you could hear him coming from miles away. Better use plenty of firewall insulation!
  20. It's a BBQ. He does a lot of outdoor cooking and is a KW nut. Brad
  21. I made this up for a buddy of mine when he got married(poor guy). I found the grille at a local wrecking yard and when I saw it I knew immediately what to do with it. I've got some extra B-73 aluminum radiators that I'm thinking of doing something similar with only I think i'll use them for the surround, not the grille. Brad
  22. My dad's RS763, F715 and RW613. All are used in our farming operation. The F has an 866 V-8, T2090 and Mack rears. The RW has an E-6 fuller 13 spd and mack rears. The RS has a Cummins 350, fuller 13 spd. and mack rears.
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