HeyCharger

I'm curious as to the many ways the gear shift levers on a quad-box are bent. Obviously a lot of drivers have their own personal preference. I read somewhere that they should be so-arranged that you should be able to upshift into 3rd Lo-Split, with ONE HAND. Comments, photos (preferably with mention of gears selected and ruler) appreciated. Regards, Rod.

Hi Guys. Two questions; 1) I've been told my rears are 44,000lbs. What does this actually mean to me as a driver? Does it mean that the actual trailer maximum weight is 44,000lbs ie approx 20 tons? 2) I've noted that the turntable (fifth wheel) on some prime movers is positioned differently. ie mine is very close to the centre of the two bogie axles. Others I've seen are positioned more forward (almost over the front bogie axle). Then there are the ones that slide forward or aft. What are the reasons/advantages? Thanks. Rod.

Hi Monty, No, it is not the original paint. It came out of the factory as a single drive painted green. I have to admit that this is my own colour scheme and I must say, I still like it. If you check out my gallery, you will see more. Re Sydney, yes on RHS just after you go under Menangle Road and before you go under the Mark Evans bridge (I think). I'm pretty sure I spoke to Ed at The NRMA Australia Day Motorfest, re your club. I will put it on my calendar. Where is your location? - Rod.

Hi Monty, It was at our open weekend for the Campbelltown Steam & Machinery Museum. Campbelltown is about 50km south west of Sydney. We have a great time. Let me know if you would like further details. Our next open weekend will be in Oct. Here is a link to some photo's; http://www.rstanford.com.au/rallies.html Click on "Menangle Rally" columns show year and month. Regards, Rod.

What a great weekend. Good truck. Good dog (times two). Borrowed trailer. 8 traction engines. About 30 vintage tractors. About 20 vintage trucks. Dozens and dozens of stationary engines, some "hit-and-miss". Vintage cars. Old drag-line bucket scoop and about 8 bulldozers - all operating. The smell of steam and oil. Great weather and good friends. Heaven!!! Rod.

This is what (little) I understand about chrome plating; Chrome Process 1. Removal of Existing Plate The first step in the restoration of chrome parts is the removal of all existing plating. To ensure a quality job the part must be brought down to its base metal. This is done by a chemical (acid) that removes the existing chrome and nickel plating. 2. Part Cleaning After the plating has been removed, the parts are sand blasted clean, and/or chemically cleaned to remove rust. This process helps identify the flaws (pitting, scratches, rot) in the base metal that must be addressed. 3. Repair For those parts that are deeply pitted or rotted, the chrome shop will either cut out and prefabricate the rotted area or will solder the flawed areas. Chrome shops have developed the skills and techniques required to address both the variety of metal and metal condition faced in restoring old metal parts. 4. Polishing Using a series of abrasives the parts are polished to a near mirror like finish. Remember that your chrome shop has devised a number to techniques and tools that polish the metal without damaging the fine detail . This is especially necessary in the handling of the more delicate pot metal castings used in many older cars. 5. Copper Plating After polishing the base metal the parts are copper plated. The copper plate both protects the metal and allows the chrome shop workers to buff the parts to a near flawless condition. 6. Buffing The parts are removed from the copper solutions, rinsed and buffed. In the buffing process soft cloth wheels are used to remove small surface imperfections and to bring the parts to a mirror shine. 7. Nickel Plating The parts are cleaned and immersed in a nickel plating tank. To insure a quality product platers continue to monitor the condition of the plating solutions. After approximately one hour the parts are removed with a brilliant nickel plate. 8. Chrome Plating The final step of chrome plating gives protection and luster to your parts. It is the last step in the Triple Chrome Plating Process (1)Copper (2)Nickel (3)Chrome). I believe that very few shops carry out step 5 Copper plating, for various environmental reasons. However, according to all the old timers, this is a very important step. Try to find out if they are going to do the full Triple Chrome Plating Process. Regards, Rod.

With due credit to Rob 22 Aug 07 Measure down 4 inches from the bottom of the steering wheel towards the dash and mark a line completly around steering column. Obtain reciprocating saw from toolbox and cut on line previously marked. Steering wheel comes right off effortlessly. The solution is quite simple when you think about it. Rob I actually loosen the retainer nut till the top of the nut is flush with the ending of the column threads. I then place a large washer inside the steering wheel center, butt my knees against the wheel rim at the bottom while pulling at the top of the rim, and smack the washer with a hammer. The shock to the column usually breaks the wheel loose, and the retainer nut keeps you from eating the steering wheel. Good luck!!

Hi Guys. I must have missed something along the way. Why is an engine with a capacity of 672 ci called a 673? No flaming please - just curious. Thanks. Rod.

Hi Steve. I'm not a mechanic so this may be wrong. When you turn it with the "small bar" you say it goes a quarter of a turn and stops. Is this a sharp, abrupt stop, or could it be just on a compression stroke. Just remember, the compression (I presume it's a diesel) is over 500psi. A normal car is around 80psi. When I've turned mine over, I've needed a BIG bar with plenty of leverage. First thing I would do is take out a few (or all) injectors and then see if it turns easily, with no compression. As has been said, you need a lot of ooommmppphhh to turn these over. Good batteries, or a good air supply are a must. Hope this is helpful. Rod.

With all due respect, I don't think the multiple daisy chain effect would supply the air you need. You need a large AMOUNT (ie volume) in a small time frame. I think the main supply hose from my one tank to the starter is about 2" diam. The solenoid control hose, on the other hand is about 1/2". I think my air tank is around 200litres (40-50gal) capacity. You really need the OOMMMPPHHH! very big and very quick. I must be lucky, because when I hit my starter, the old girl fires immediately (ie within 1 second). Regards, Rod.

Not at all. Hey Freightrain, finally going to join the elite, with an air-starter A couple of tips; 1) When starting using air, hold the starter engaged until either the engine starts or you run out of air. Don't attempt a start, release, attempt another start, release, because you probably won't get another attempt 2) Have your air starter system and supply completely SEPARATE from ALL other air components, apart from ONE line where the air tank gets recharged and here use a one-way valve. 3) Before you start, look around the truck. If there are little old ladies, go and warn them before starting. If there are young kids/teenagers around - just hit the starter and enjoy the reactions 4) All fine and beaut to say you will use the air in the tyres to recharge the tank, and yes, here in Oz the working trucks still run at high pressure, but for me bob-tailing, I have at the most 30psi in the tyres Therefore, when I have run out of air, I have flagged down 4WD's as a lot of these guys have compressors on board. Enjoy one of the greatest sounds on earth. Rod.

Hi Barry, Just a suggestion. As I believe quite a few members have their own web site, would it be possible to add "My Website" to the members description (ie on the left hand side of forum pages). You already have links to "My Blog" and "My Gallery". I actually have a website and find it really hard to access via this site. Just a thought. Regards, Rod.

Hi Grant and welcome. There are quite a few other Aussie's here, so feel at home, and also a wealth of information. We also like to see what each other has, so make use of your album and post a few piccy's. Regards, Rod.

Thanks for your help guys. I was able to get one locally. Thanks. Rod.

To be honest, that is what I have right now. A photo of the plate, fixed up there until I get "the real thing". Rod.

Thanks. If you are referring to this guy http://stores.ebay.com/Pro-Gear-and-Transmission-Inc I've emailed him, but I don't think he has any. Thanks. Rod.

Hi Guys. I'm after the interior overhead shift pattern tag for a TRQ-7210. If anyone has a spare laying around, would you let me know. Thanks. Rod.

Yes. One of the greatest sounds on this earth (and real good for scaring the crap out of bystanders )

Remember, if you have an air starter, it will take a lot longer to reach full air pressure as your air-start tank is being filled as well.

Again the Mighty Mack B61 was in attendance. The 2008 NRMA Motorfest is held in the Central Business District (CBD) of Sydney. There is a vast array of motor vehicles on display. NRMA Motorfest, held each year on Australia Day, celebrates Australia's love of the automobile with up to 1,000 veteran, vintage and classic cars, commercial & military vehicles and motor cycles on exhibition along the city streets. The proud owners of the vehicles are always happy to answer the many questions from the admiring public who come from across Sydney and NSW for a cheerful chat with owners and a closer look at the cars. NRMA Motorfest attracts more people (with more than half a million people expected to attend), than any other outdoor display of vehicles in the southern hemisphere and is a significant part of Australia Day celebrations held in Sydney CBD. A great (Australia) day was had by all. Rod. Page 2 of below shows Sydney streets closed for Motorfest. http://www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au/Council..._STC_ITEM06.pdf

Hi Rene, Dan does have quite a good website here; http://www.stlouisdumptrucks.com/Duel/index.html Regards, Rod.

Hi Dan. Last night I again watched Duel. Great movie. I noticed that the truck has about 6 registration plates on the front bumper. Is this normal in the States? Regards from DownUnder, Rod.