rsb502

That RD looks great pulling a lowboy, and its pretty rare to see an all aluminum wheel/tank truck with dual exhaust like that, the E7 400/8LL is a great combo too, I think you got a good one it should pull whatever you need to pull under 1650rpm they are luggers.

Whew, if your actually working a truck at a slow speed and the manifolds start to glow you need to speed up or let out cause a piston is glowing too.

if I had a single axle B I would have that trailer period, do a little metal work and put a deck on it and have a hell of a nice combo with a daycab single axle B to take to shows, you could even put your old tractor or equipment on it for a load all in the same era.

go to Mack to get the sensor, one on the pump one on the left side of the engine near the back on the bellhousing under the firewall.

Wheres the pics of the Hot Russian Babes? I do like them cute Germans too!

I probably could if I tried but I doubt my engine would last as long as his doing it, the Buckeye Bulldog and Killer Mack are some Bad Bad rides for sure.

I get mine at NAPA, theyre a little cheaper than Mack, I take one in and they can match it up or you can get the Mack p/n for them to cross over to a NAPA#

Now its a Western Star cab with a Freightliner badge, a Detroit engine, Meritor axles and an Allison transmission tell me Daimler aint cashing in on that.

Did anyone else notice the second truck in the pic with the dump trailers in the building was a Superliner 1 with headlights in the bumper.

Well it was supposed to say "after you see" but ,my phone thinks it knows what I want to say and just changes it, or maybe my phone was being a jerk? LOL!

Oh Boy ISL EGR engines, learn up on your egr valves, egr coolers,dpf's,cat's, vg turbos and the sensors that go with it.

Afet you see so many dogs tryin to run away from the trucks I just figured they didnt like the new owner! lol

Im looing for thoughts on the Dale Francis built E9 headers, Im gonna have to replace my exhaust due to corrosion and leaks and I have heard pros and cons from others along the way so what do BMT members think?

Detroit says its due to the Overhead cam, everything is shorter thus needs less rigidity, it is actually part of the reason they are so sarn efficient. I think with a couple mods related to the bull gear and pistons they would be hard to beat engines for sure, they have one of the best power to weight ratios there is and anyone that has run one will tell you a good running 500hp series 60 is right up there with a 525 N14 or 550 Cat 3406E. I have long pondered building one with some custom pistons and cranking it up to see how well it would actually do in the real world without the epa restrictions that cause exces heat and the weak piston. Thanks for the best answer, LOL! i see some threads get it and some dont it makes me laugh, kindof a crap shoot. LOL!

Isn't that a Super Liner emblem on the side of that hood?

Ha I wonder what it takes to get a best answer here on the engine threads? LOL! I had to go thru a many series 60 at Howard Baer we ended up with all the detroit tools to do it right and make it easier, they are actually really simple engines which may be why they are so reliable up to that mysterious 700- 800k mark, I wonder if they build in piston failure at a certain amount of hours?

Ok who has what for a clutch, I am looking at a modified Lipe from Dale Francis right now but Im wondering if I drive it carefully if a 2250 ft lb from mid america clutch will hold up to a hot E9. Im looking for info so whatever you have let me know, Im looking at around 800rwhp when Im done and well over 2000ft lbs of torque so Ill need a good one.

Have you checked your transmission cooler and pump to make sure the pump is circulating oil and the cooler isnt clogged? I have helped install bigger coolers on two heavy haul trucks in the past and it helped with the temp on long pulls, I cant remember who made them but they were about a third larger and one had an electric fan controllled by a thermostat we set it to come on at 200. I know there werent a lot of the 2218's sold in the US there are plenty in Australia but here they only go behind, 600Cat, 600 Cummins, and MP10 605 Mack engines so they are slim pickins. Supposedly you can put in the bigger input shaft and change the bearings on the counter shafts to the heavier items but I have never done it. Im kinda in the same boat right now I have an RTX14609B in my truck and a 14613 on the ground but with a turned up E9 and I am in the process of getting the parts together to get my HP way up, like800rwhp kind of up so Im not going to be able to use either one of them. I may be looking for a 2218 also so you better get one if you find it I may snag it if you dont, Im already trying to decide on a clutch, Dale Francis has a modified Lipe clutch he says is good for 3000ft lbs so i may end up with it, if not itll be a 2200 easy pedal and Ill just have to be careful as hell.

RTLO22918B or RTLO22918B-AS yep they make it in an auto shift, dont think I would want to try heavy haul with an auto shift eaton they arent real smooth, sounds like immediate driveline damamge to me. I priced an RTLO22918 once, used takeout was $9000 I changed my mind quickly, dont even ask about a reman.

I was told to replace both due to thread stretch on the hub and never ever ever re-use a nut on something that takes a lot of torque on a Detroit the bolts are cheap compared to doing it again. I bet youll like torquing the head on that one, it goes to 200 or 250 I cant remember which right now in three stages, your arm will be killing you if you do it all at one time(38 bolts I think?). I used three different color paint pens to mark my head bolts to make sure I got em all one color for each torque step. Good luck with the rebuild and make sure the liner protrusion is right if not youll get a head gasket issue pretty quick its a pain in the butt to do but when you use your liner inserter keep pressure on the liner and use a straight edge and caliper to check it, they are pretty touchy on the liner fitment, I think I still have some detroit series 60 injector height guages somewhere around here.

Well I had two 15's and yeah you can split all the low range gears in em, they are a 10 speed with an added deep reduction range I was trying to simplify my answer, I get told I tend to get too technical for some. I had two 15's over the years they are great transmissions for heavy haul or on/off road use, I actually have always shifted my 8LL's like a 15 when needed, they will split all the low range gears to deep reduction also they are just not made to do so, the 15 has heavier components for all the low range gears to handle the added torque the 8LL just has them in L so you can kill the other low range gears if you put too much load on em in deep reduction. Actually you can put an 18 spd shifter on any eaton trans with an aux box and split every gear in the trans, they just arent made to do so and youll kill em doing it, I have put an 18 spd shifter on both a 13 and an 8LL just to try it and yep it works the block to keep you from splitting the gears in the wrong range in a 8ll,13,15 is in the shifter not the trans. Actually all Eaton transmissions with auxilliary range split, 8LL, 9LL, 13,15,18 all have a deep reduction back box on them, the OD is in the main box so when the splitter is in high you are direct in the back box in low you are in deep reduction, so in a 13 speed in 8th gear low you are in a deep reduction gear and 8th gear high is 1.1, 9th gear high is .74od and 9th low is .86 because of the deep reduction split of the OD main gear. Just my two cents but for that truck if your just tired of the 9 spd go find a 15 somewhere and swap it out, youll be happy with it there is always a good gear for off highway with them and a used RTO14715 or 14915 is a lot cheaper than an 18.

The hub oil cap is pretty standard only one or two variations on the fill hole, definitely put a plug in it to keep oil and dirt out you can get a whole new cap with the plug for not much or a pack of a couple of the plugs for a couple bucks.

X2 I was told once you stretch the threads it wont ever hold a nut again aand to replace it or youd be digging for pieces of ground up bearing, gear and retaining nut.

Does anyone else notice this happens more and more now that there are so many brokers trying to take your money for using the phone? These things weren't unheard of in the past but they sure didn't seem to happen nearly as often either.

The B model, Generals and Big Horn are freakin awesome, I've seen r model carriers growing up but never a B.