rsb502

I figured just not into it that's just me, I spent a bunch of money and killed a lot of time getting a pair of nice turn signals I'm gonna put em on like they are supposed to be.

Oops here ya go. 9" visor from KC.

I like both the stainless and the fiberglass visors past that its personal preference. I can tell you that the 13" is too long it shakes and vibrates and comes down so far its out of proportion. I ordered one from KC truck parts out of Washington and had it custom made as a 9" it is very well made and fit perfect and it still has the right amount of glass showing and its light enough it doesn't flop around.

Now that its fixed shift it slow and smooth and don't push it into gear if its right it will drop in, it'll last a lot longer trust me. I shift em with two fingers on the back of the shifter once its ready it'll drop right in, seems most don't like the long gear step to 7th so they force it and then it does what yours did.

From a Dealer not a bad price actually.

Do it, I can get you the stainless scoop tops if you can't find em

Um,......... ok.

And twin warlocks on the fenders too, if you don't know what those are you don't have clearance.

But he has his turn signals on backwards, makes me think about dogs being backwards on mirrors and flaps. If he doesn't want em to have that side light I'll take em.

Sweet, I do love a Superliner!

Actually from what I heard thats why the Detroit Diesel symbol was the same as recycling they advocate recycling your leaked oil back into the engine.

Dont do it Randy, youll slip and fall in the puddle of oil tryin to get in your truck!...... No seriously, do you put a drip pan under that Green Leaker when you park it and just pour it back in to keep it topped off?

Trailer tits, its cold there!

Ray is gonna be "On the Road again, just cant wait to get on the Road Again", HA! I do love the sight an E9, had to roll my hood over just to stare at mine today, now if I could get Rays Turbo and injectors Id be ok.

Yep!

Almost forgot, nice truck, its rere to see a CL down here they are almost all gone, most of the companies either went to a set forward CH for bridge length or another Brand for price.

if the neck on that lowboy is too short to run on a triaxle tractor its not made for loads that heavy its under 50tn, Ive had my time with a lowboy and I have never seen a 50-55tn that didnt have a long enough kingpin setting to get it over the center axle on a triaxle tractor. With the pin on rear the wheel base stays the same until its needed and if you have it on to get down the road when you get into the tight stuff you just dump the air and it doesnt change the turning radius. Also the pin on saves weight to keep the payload up when its not needed, you just drop it on your yard then you are back to your old tare weight, seems a permanent tag would either extend the wb making it harder to maneuver in tight areas(in front of the drives) or extend the length of the tractor and therefore the combo, by needing to slide the 5th wheel back to the center of the rear drive axle to clear and distribute the weight properly. Seems like you need a second truck that is a tri axle, a jeep, or a pin on tag to solve this issue, Guess which is cheaper? Adding a pin on to the trailer gets you some more payload but you will be over on your drives if you get scaled since your dividing the trailer weight by yet another axle and dropping the ground pressure on each then adding cargo weight and the resulting added gp goes where? the drives!

That red Superliner with the rear tag is something not many people do, I have pondered setting a tandem up to accept a pin on axle for a lowboy that way you can pin it on use it then when you dont need it just set it off and your back to a tandem and the shorter wheelbase. A steer tag in front of the drives is best but it means stretching the frame and makes the wheelbase longer so the truck gets a little harder to get into tight spots. From what your describing and the areas your working in if it was me I would go to a dealer that sells lowboy trailers and pin on axles and price a pin on and the work to add the brackets and wiring/air line connections. I think that would give you the maneuverability your looking for and the ability to haul more weight when needed. Remember whichever way you go once you have three rear axles you'll need the fifth wheel slider to be able to set over the center axle to distribute the weight right so it will probably need to be moved a few inches too. An added bonus to the pin on would be no real added weight when it was off the truck so you keep your payload, with a tag and a stretch you'll add about 2,000#or more to the truck.

This keeps popping up on here if you do a search for 8LL its been discussed. This is a common issue with an 8LL, I have had it done several times, more times than not its in the top end, it will cost about $400 for parts at a reputable shop. I think of the several I have had done once there were synchro/gear issues every other time its been a shifter/fork issue. Go to a reputable shop now and get it fixed if you keep driving it it won't fully engage and youll have to replace 3 gears and synchros and the shifter pieces so the price more than doubles. If you call around most shops have done it and the reputable ones will tell you what i just did the others will say they will have to take it down to know whats wrong.

Lmack I just slid my trunnion back to the end of my inner frame rails. I cut the outers and moved the section I cut back with the suspension for a drill guide, I actually reamed the holes for my rear crossmember and used them for aligning my trunnion so I was sure it was straight. Nowim just drilling the remaining holes thru one piece (the inner) of frame so it makes it a lot easier and you don't need double frame behind the trunnion unless you have a dump bed or something else that puts a lot of weight back there. I got out the tape measure and measured from the back of my trunnion to the end of the inner frame rails, that tells you how far you can go( I have 3 more inches but like the ease of alignment using old bolt holes ) just add that to you wheelbase and there's your Max on factory frame rails.

I'm 1993 Mack built several CL and CH trucks that were said to be limited edition. My CH was black metallic with silver metallic side skirts and frame and most of the CL's were maroon metallic with the same skits and frame. I know all of the trucks Also had wood dash's and bulldogs embroidered on the seats and leather shifter boots, all of the trucks also had chrome valve covers with gold Mack Trucks emblems(still want a set for an E9). I have seen several of the trucks and all had the Bulldog front wheels but the only time I have seen them on another truck was the red Superliner at MATS this year, and it was stud piloted and all the others I've seen were hub piloted. I know someone here has the full scoop on those wheels, I was told by one salesman a few years back that they didn't make any extras they only made enough for the elite trucks in 93.

Probably got it cheaper than the wheels alone.

Oh and on fenders I'm going for the ribbed or bead rolled stainless to keep the 80's look goin.

I missed your post in there somehow Vinny, I'm still planning on making Macungie that's one of the reasons for the gear swap. I should make it as long as I can get some decent weather to work on her and my truck funds hold out. Its gonna cost me a couple grand to make the trip so I may have to try to get a load coming that way to cover fuel.

Well I'm late on the again but the southeast regional show put on by the SMOKY MOUNTAIN and MUSIC CITY ATHS chapters is at the Roane state community college, Harriman TN campus April 12/13. I am trying to get the Superdog back together to go we'll see if the weather helps or not. I plan to go on Saturday it should be a decent antique truck show if anyone is in the area come on and check it out.