rsb502

Um well pretty much all the good ones are taken so Ill go the high road and say she is very attractive in that shirt. Ok Id do naughty, naughty things with that one there, whew!

The big double Eagle sleepers with the shower,fridge,stove etc. cost int he neighborhood of $50-120k new. Yes I said $120,000 U.S. dollars, I saw the invoice for one at the pete dealer, it had hardwood floors,and cabinets, full bath, kitchen, marble countertops, tile shower, satellite tv,internet, onan diesel generator, mounting and intallation and paint it cost $119,675. Now thats on top of the 330"wb pete 389 that it sat on, the total price tag with fenders, bumper,custom painted stripes, and a bunch of stainless and lights was $260,000, thats for a truck to drive on the road,wth man? I cant imagine, I paid less for my house and 23 acres...... actually my house, 23 acres, a John Deere Gator XUV, mower, chain saw, a couple guns, some ammo and had some cash left over at $260,000!

So is anyone going to try to find out when and where they are selling the Nashua trucks?

Yeah with that 12 speed you have a gear for everything, I loved the one in my 84, wish my 85 had it.

I understand the same thing is happening here, companies that went to KW, PETE, Freight liner are reluctant to go back. It is happening now that Mack has some new trucks in the field, several companies that made a switch are making some Mack purchases and those that have in the last couple years are making more Mack orders since they have tried out the newer trucks. I think a lot of people kinda felt let down when the Aset engines came out and didn't run for shit, so they are slowly doing research and trying the waters but not making any commitments.

Do you know the engine type, MP7 or MP8? Do you know the HP? Do you know the rear gear ratio? Why don't we have pics of a new Mack to stare at? I don't know why not, if your light weight is 35000-40000# add 54000 and your around 90,000# that's not bad at all. I would think an MP7 405hp would pull it, an MP8 505hp would do better though, it all comes down to gross weight, engine HP/torque and final gearing, knowing the trailer will haul 54k and you have a 10 Speed ain't enough info for a real assessment but the gear steps in a 10 are close enough to haul heavy, closer than a 9spd slightly farther apart than a 13spd.

Hey oily, how's the mileage after driving that thing using the engine for a while instead of using your foot? Is it getting better, easier to do the longer you do it?

Not for air cleaners, where are the dimples, on the cowl in front of the door above the hood latch area?

King pins and tire/ wheel loose and or out of balance

is that a 100"?

How much weight are you putting on a 385 to blow it? and whats the brand, I have run Michelin, Yokohama,Dunlop, Bridgestone and Good Year 385's and 425's and never had one go bad, the 385's are good for over 19,000 on a steer axle, the 425's are over 21000# (for a pair of each). I think we have run steers well over 20k when you have a tri-axle dump with 74,000-84,000 gross on a 16' bed and you pick up the tag your running on just the steer and drives, I have never blown a steer tire, I have cut one or two on shot rock but never blown em, I have had well over 25,000 on my steer with 385's and 11R24.5's. Guess I was lucky all these years.

That fisrt bulletin looks like the winner, 20psi is low and if the intake pressure was 33 and the boost pressure was 20 the two sensors are not reading inside the set variance so they are triggering a derate and fault code until you are no longer in a hard pull, looks like (and I am not sure on this engine) the intake pressure of 33 may be measured at the turbo and the boost pressure of 20 may be measured at the intake manifold. If so you have a charge air leak and therefore the sensor on the intake tells the computer to derate because there is a problem, hook up a mechanical boost guage on the intake manifold (cold) side and see what you get (a low mpressure air press guage that reads in the 5 lb or less increments will work if no boost guage is handy. If you get a lower reading on the mechanical guage than the ecm reading you have a charge air leak, or just get a spray bottle with soapy water in it and run the truck at about 1000rpm and spray the charge air system down looking for bubbles. Other than that it would be a bad sensor and I would guess it was the boost sensor (if there are two sensors) again I dont know this engine that well Im just using mechanical deductive reasoning from older Mack's.

Snow aint white cause of tha pollution of yo truck man!, I do love to make the Superdog lay down a good cloud in town when I can, pretty easy with no puff limiter really shift early get the rpm down to about 900 and roll into about half throttle, instant smoke screen.

I have run SEVERAL RD's and Granites with single steer box on 18k Mack axles they run fine, I think its a different box than the 12k though, mine looked larger on the RD and Granite than on the CH. The Mack axle would be the best bet for sure the axle spacing is different STAXX is looking into this right now, just going to a different axle for a different reason not to 18k, the springs are different I think they are the same length but as I recall the shackles on the back are different also, Id find a wreck in a junk yard that was the same type of truck and get the parts from it, pretty much any dump, concrete, heavy haul Makc has 18k front, the big question is, what kind of 200o Mack there are several issues with doing this do certain models, I tried to order a CH and was told they would not make a CH with an 8k front, same with a Vision so they will be difficult to find. So what kind of truck and how much weight do you have on the steer loaded?

it was the 2000 RD with ETECH 350.

Hmm I remember a renault stamping on the block on one of my trucks I just cant remember which one, E-7 or ETECH, maybe I cant remember, I know the E5 in both its forms was Renault sourced.

You know I remember a conversation lke this about Renault anyone remember them? So is an E7 a Mack engine? seems it had a Renault logo stamped on the block!

A spray bottle full of water with about a teaspoon of dish soap sprayed on the intake system with the engine running about 1000rpm will show any leaks, theres enough positive pressure made even without the boost guage reading anything to make bubbles, thats how I track mine down I dont like the starting fluid method.

Manifold pressure is in the range it should be 13-21 per the Mack V8 tune up guide, but I have always seen it at the top end of that range in operation. I am guessing you have a charge air leak though, if you have a hole in it, replace it I realize you have a piece of rubber over it with gasket blue but I doubt that can hold 20psi of compressed air. I know they arent cheap but the engine wont run right if you are losing intake air anywhere on the way to the engine, I would guess with a load you should make about 20-23lbs manifold pressure, my 84 made 26 with a 500+ turbo on a 10% over pump and turned up governor, my 85 makes 18 bobtail with a turned up governor. You should remove the puff limiter from the truck intake if you arent going to use it, take the puff limiter valve off the intake and put in a 1/8" pipe plug go to the pass side of the firewall and there is an 1/8" ippe plug needed to remove the air line going to the valve. The puff valve can have internal issues and blow pressurized air into the intake if its been dead headed with a plug and the seals go out inside, I took mine off in about 5 minutes, thats cutting a bunch of wire ties, and painting the plug in my intake Mack Power Gray.

I realize your going with all Mack factory parts, call Antrim Diesel in PA to get some info from them, believe it or not buying aftermarket stuff is much cheaper than OEM in most cases and will make more power if you get the right parts. I know several people have contacted Antrim for their power upgrades on BMT ask around most I have talked to are very satisfied with the results. 717-597-7963/7964/7965

Hmmm, all valid points, and having been kicked in the nuts I cant say I would ask for another. I do wonder what kind of Beer someon has to drink to deduce the answer to lifes BIG questions, like, why do you drive on a parkway and park on a driveway? I would think something with a bit of an aftertaste Ill guess Milwaukees Beast aged no less than 14 years!

that is some good info just need a tad more, so far looking like intake system or fuel advance, is it smoking running at a steady rate down the road or just when pulling like gaining speed from a stop? You stated you removed the puff limiter, Im guessing you put a pipe plug in the end of the limiter where the air went in so the solenoid is still in the hole in the pump? It start when the limiter was removed or has been removed and did fine then just started all of the sudden? Last one, Which pump do you have, Ambac?

10-4 I have always had 2.5 or larger dual exhaust on my gas trucks till this one, I bought the one I have now new in 2011 and I havent been able to make it all loud right now its quiet and comfy to ride in.

I cant find any pics of my RD's with bug shields I got into a phase where I took em all off I used em on all the Granites Ive had but the RD's seemed to look better without it to me and everybody herre had em so it was different without it. So heres some Granites with it on there, go to JP Chrome.com they have a ton ofMack chrome stuff, they have a stainless bug shield too, on the white RD Id go with the smoke one I had on these two Granites, its what I had on two of my white RD's but like I said after a while I decided they looked better without it.

Seems odd to me its making 1-2 cruising no throttle but pegs at 8 every time if it hits the same spot loaded or empty no matter the conditions, I would bet its a bad guage, however if its a big enough leak it may just be able to overcome a crack or hose tension at 8psi then bleed excess over 8 psi. I think per the Mack spec an E6 300 should make 13-21, however in an RD I am guessing its an E7 and I dont have my E7 book anymore and I cant remember all of em, but most E7's make 5-10 psi more per equal hp rating.