rsb502

I figred this out for a 200 RD back in about 2001 but for the life of me I cant remember where I got the parts, I think I used everything from Mack for an RD tractor vin that had dual exhaust here locally, I know I had the rod for each side after I got it on and it helps trust me without those rods the exhaust whips back and forth when the truck goes over bumps on a job site I didnt use em at first then we put em on that night, seems like we got a whole new mount that went across the frame and up each side then cut the Mack mount brackets off and used Pete style band clamp mounts for the stacks.

there should be two wires stubbed out one for each accessory switch inside the electrical compartment on the right dash pop the panel of and look at the lower left corner, I used em in 3 Granites and they were right there with a tag on each wire.

Dont paint the spokes a different color than the frame they are supposed to match, the wheels I always painted gray or white, gray is easier to keep clean silver isnt bad but not kentucky chrome silver more like medium silver mettalic car paint would be ok. as far as RB, you need length for bridge law to get your payload on the interstate, you have to have 51 feet from the center of your steer to the center of the rear axle to make 80,000 on 5 axles it takes 41 feet to make 73,500 so using a setback axle tractor kills your profit. I know there are some guys here that have 26' aluminum dumps and daycab T800's, they were trying to get more payload and decided to add two tag axles to their trailers to get to 80,000 but everybody told them the weight of the axles would cancel it out just haul 73 and be done with it. I am sure you see where this is going, they added two steer tags to each trailer and aluminum wheels and tires and guess what, they could gross 80,000 but they added 5,000 lbs to their trucks so now they haul half a ton more and run at 80,000 instead of running at 73 and getting better fuel mileage and being easier on the trucks, oh well live and learn. heres a bridge law chart use it wisely......

interior behind the carpet, I put one layer on got it rolled into all the corners then put the other layer on overlapping the seams then replaced the carpet, its kind of a pin to get it up into the cowl around the corners but man its worth it.

In heavy haul someone might go for a set forward high cab pinnacle, but for OTR everybody is all about fuel mileage now and that means low and sleek so I doubt it would sell very well since the heavy haul guys can already get the Titan.

I cant help ya but I think I know who can, call Pine Hill Restorations, they restore old Mack Fire Trucks and rebuild Mack carbs they even have wiring harnesses for the old Gas engines 717-566-8973.

I actually found a real picture from my past, here ya go Vin!

He makes it to his 30's without being married and he'll like em all!

Thanks for the info, the trans I found is an rtlo18613, I'm working on a deal well see if he comes off it in the next week, I have been looking for an 1800 or 2000 lb ft 13 or 18 since I got this truck I just like more gears than the nine has and I knew I needed a big torque trans for what I plan to do to the E9. I have also been looking for a set of rears to swap in the 3.86 -4.17 range but I hate to put a bunch of money into rears i have to change spiders in or change my torque rod setup for, I thought Phil at global had a set for me he was getting checked out that we could trade I know somebody can use my 44k 4.64 carriers.

You know the word "stalker" gets tossed around a lot but i think it fits this time!

I think I have come up with an Eaton 13spd and I want to do the gear flip in the main box to make it a double OD, I have no idea which gears you flip and if you need anything else to do the flip but I like to do this stuff so I know whats done to my truck (and I can do it from then on for others) if anyone has input please let me know. thanks! I am printing off the rt/rto 12513 service manual now, I might be able to figure it out from the part numbers and what the differences are from the OD to the Direct but Ive always learned by doing and from watching others that already know what they are doing so if anyone can tell me wat to do Ill give it a shot. Before I hear it, yeah I think I have enough power with a cranked up E9 450 and 4.64 rears to pull it out ( more power soon to come hopefully, turbo injectors,pump timing).

MMMMM! smooth downstairs, I do like a nice smooth downstairs, none of that rough tangled bush stuff! (a piercing or tattoo downstairs aint bad either!)

I like the DYnomat it worked great, I put it in 3 trucks and my old Camaro, I have to get to HiFi buys and get 2 more project packs to do the cab of the 85 Superliner now, I did 2 layers on the floor/firewall, one layer in the roof,back wall,door panels and it made it freakin awesome. I will do it to every truck I have after the first one, it makes a huge difference in the heat transmitted thru the floor and firewall and cuts the road and engine noise in half, I could set my phone on the dash on speaker and talk going down the road in an 84 Superliner with an E9, pretty serious difference from barely hearing anything with the phone on my ear. I used almost all of two project packs that have 100sq.ft. a pack I think I have two half sheets left when I was done. I think its about $200 bucks a pack now but I still think its worth it, buy a good 2" wide hard rubber roller to put it in with and get some new blades for a carpet knife to cut it then you are set, if you cut it while its cool(under 70 degrees) its not as sticky and is easier to work with, then once I had it in the truck I put a space heater in ther and got it hot as I could and got in and rolled it all down a nsecond time then did the other layer. I am kinda anal about this kind of stuff so I go to extremes most would not but its done right when Im finished I dont have to do it again. I would also recommend a turbo blanket to all E9 owners it keeps the heat from the turbo off the firewall and in the exhaust where it belongs.

I ave always wanted to go buy a chap old bus and shorten iut up like that but I wanted to do it to one of the old ones around here that had the 427 and the 5 and 2 in em, then you can put a cam in it and do some dual 3" exhaust and make it stand up!

When you get ready to change the oil in an E9 be ready it comes out fast and it is a lot more than an E7, 14 gallons to be exact, your average 12 gallon truck drain pan wont hold it all, ask Staxx about the new guy at Mack of Nashville changing the oil in my 84 after. I told him to drain the pan completely and he said "oh no itll hold two oil changes" I told him again to drain it he said it was cool "he had done it before", then made a big freakin mess on the floor when it ran 14 gallons out instead of the 10 he was thinking about.

Dont get picky now Vinny they both have Experience, theyll teach you some things your parents warned you about! ( and some others your parents hope you never learn)

That would be ok by me, hell I might even let you come to TN and sit in the Superliner(only for a couple minutes I dont want you to get the steering wheel sticky)!

Just to prove my idea of the hardcore spoke wheels, I ran this 95 Rd instead of an 05 or 07 Granite every day, I let the new guys run the granite I like the old trucks better..

From your video this problem exists stopped with the park brake on and running down the road, so that eliminates the driveline and axles, it could be a motor mount, balancer, clutch or a trans issue, if depressing the clutch(using the clutch brake to completely stop it then easing out just a hair to get off the brake) elimiates teh vibration its in the clutch/trans, if not it is in the balancer,mounts. I know that there are urethane motor mounts you can get from most parts places Mack included that last a lot longer but you get more engine vibration thru the chassis so I would replace the old ones with new rubber mounts to keep felt vibration down, look at the mounts there are two under the front of the engine and one on each side of the bellhousing if the rubber is worn out (cracked, dryrotted,pushed out) replace them, even if they arent worn out you can replace them all for about $100 so its good insurance in my mind. As far as a balncer goes if you go back and read a lot of the engine manufacturers recommended maintenance practices in detail most recommend replacing the damper and turning the flywheel every couple hundred thousand miles or few thousand hours, so again, is it really a bad thing to do if you swapped it and it didnt completely stop the vibration? Its definitely better to replace it than having the damper fail at work and ruining a main bearing or two before you get it fixed I dont see a need to goback thru the valves the way its running I didnt hear a tick at idle its making good power and boost and no smoke, and I definitely dont know why you would replace the heads and cam until they have issues again your running pretty good no ticking in the valvetrain, no pushing or mixing of coolant/oil, and no miss or low boost condition, excessive raw fuel smoke, so the valves are doing their job. If it was me Id check to make sure it wasnt the clutch/trans by running it with the clutch depressed if not Id replace the balancer and I would probably would have already replaced the motor mounts its a 95 model and rubber deteriorates I doubt you would run a dryrotted tire from 95 on there everyday so why continue to run old motor mounts when they are cheap and super easy to swap its literally a 2 hour job with 1 bottle jack you can do by yourself I have swapped em on every truck I have ever had but one and Staxx did that one at Mack while he was running the overhead for me. Just my two cents, I think you have a nice truck there, I wouldnt get into doing too much parts swapping trying to track down every little rattle before long you wont know where all your money went and you still have a 95 model not an 05. p.s. I would rock out those rear spokes I wouldnt swap em out they make it look hard core!

On my 84 E9 I made 18-20 pulling a load about 5-10 Max empty, after we turned up the pump and I put a 525 Turbo on it it made 10-15 bobtail and 20-28 loaded, e9's don't make a lot of boost unless you go to an aftermarket Turbo, actually they don't need much boost there's enough cubes there to do most of the work.

I pulled all the interior out of mine and put two layers of dynomat everywhere I could get it, best thing I ever did, makes it as quiet as a new pinnacle, and keeps the heat from the firewall and floor out.

I like mthe progressive shifting, not just throwing it to the floor till its wound out, that is the right way to drive a truck let the engine do what its supposed to, seems to be a good puller to me, reminds me of the old 95 tri-axle RD.

Dont hold the clutch "all the way down" thats clutch brake territory just push it down to the stop easy then back off about 2 or 3 inches that keeps the clutch disengaged and you off the clutch brake. While your greasing make sure the grease tube is still attatched to the throwout bearing, it goes all the way to the top and screws in a 90 degree fitting, they come off and people just keep greasing the tube and then dont know why they have a vibration or noise when the clutch is depressed, its common in a Mack other brands grease at the bottom so they are easier to get to, people get lazy since it takes effort to check a Mack.

As stated above tire height is the issue if one is taller than the one next to it the tall one gets more weight and heats up faster, also you dont want tire height from front to rear axle to be off by much, if the front axle has 40" tall tires and the rear axle has 42" tall tires the rear axle is turning slower and if the power divider is engaged that leads to Broke stuff! One inch in height is a lot in rotational speed, just so ya know!