rsb502

Oh and heres a pic or two that might be of interest.....including Macks too....the F model was built for export and was sitting at Talil airbase IQ camp Adder, the Granite came out of Kuwait the company is supposedly owned by the Mack dealership owner and has several hundred of those Granites.

Sure looks cold in Moscow and other places, it was 73 here in Tennessee today, and the rail gun and constellations are cool, I have Lots and Lots and Lots of military books, memorabilia, oh and pics from IQ some from friends others from 2010 when I was there, saw lots of neat stuff. Oh and to anyone interested in military aircraft make plans and take a trip to Dayton Ohio to The Museum of the Air Force, that place is freakin awesome, the largest collection of military aircraft in the world, you can tour the restoration hanger on weekdays where they are restoring the Memphis Belle right now.

Just for the sake of trying it out, block half (or more) of the radiator with a piece of cardboard and drive the truck for a while, if you get more heat with it blocked then your thermostats may be stuck open and continuously circulating not allowing the temp to get high enough for good heating. Watch the pyrometer while you are driving as you will also be blocking the airflow that cools the intake air and your exhaust temp will get higher than normal, in cold temps with a stock fuel system it should never get too hot but make sure to watch on hills that it does not exceed 900-1000 degrees.

If the engine is hot the hoses should get hot no matter which position the control valve is in.

Well if you had told me it was your birthday earlier I would have found a present for ya on the work truck somewhere.

Check the tractor protection valve.

thats not a sleeper on that stx truck , he just left his briefcase on the catwalk!

nice pics, that R model is the coolest one there, why buy a new truck with a black bumper? it just dont make any sense to me.

I am pondering adding an OD back box to my RTX 14609B to make a .62 OD but I would have to change the counter shafts in the back box to match the OD trans, the OD back box is a direct bolt up for a direct trans and the under drive back box is a direct bolt up for the OD trans, so you have to change the shaft to match the OD box to the OD trans I have the p/n's somewhere here in a book.

yes it was an rto I2515 that makes .74 or .79 in OD, with the front gears flipped it makes it more like .64 or .62 in high and moves std od down one gear to 8th, so 1.0 in 7th, .74/.79 in 8th, .64/.62 in 9th. I cant rmember if an rto 15 spd has .74 or .79 od it could be either depending on model.

dont forget some trucks do have valves on both hoses, I used to put another one on every truck I ever worked on that only had one if I got into the cooling system, one on the head and one on the block. Make sure the inline heat control valve is opening all the way try to move it by hand make sure its not sticking, and as above check the blend door under the dash to make sure it closes completely, also if the heater hoses are not hot 10-12" from the firewall the heat valves are closed the radiant heat from the engine will be enough to get the water in the heater hoses to operating temp even if the heat control valve is off and it is not completely circulating, check the water valves themselves to make sure the valve is opening when you turn the handle sometimes they break or the splines strip and you just turn the handle not the valve itself.

Buy it now before somebody else goes to check it out.

Ok so the spicer aux box may be too much for a toy truck, does anybody have an OD back box for an Eaton(not the back box off a newer .74 OD 13 or 18spd they are Under drive).

ok is the truck 12v or 24v, i get that its positive ground and to jump a positive ground 12v truck you just need to put pos to pos neg to neg on the batteries, to jump 24v positive ground it gets tricky at best with a 12v vehicle if its doable at all. The reason to disconnect the neg on the powered vehicle (12v) when trying to jump a 24v is so that the 24v vehicle doesnt fry your 12v system when it starts. best to go get a jump box that does both 12 and 24v I have one and it works great.

Heres another one!

Hmm, I was trying to come up with a good one here listening to some Guns N Roses but I think enough has been said about Suzie, oh and nice pic of my GF leversole!

I might have found a transmission, he had a15spd with flipped gears so it would be a .62 OD I might shoot him an offer Im still trying to make up my mind, he had Tons of Cummins NTC stuff and knows them well, had a nearly new Cummins small cam on a stand it was a pump for a fire sprinkler system, had 280hrs on it. I think Staxx is gonna buy all the B models and line em up at his place, I might steal that red and white tandem B61.

I tried to get the Camaro from him, and I am going to continue to try to get it until he dies, or sells it to me, he said its been in that barn for about 20yrs.

I wish I had seen this earlier, the E9 trucks had 5" exhaust the E6/E7 trucks had 4", I had a time finding the parts for mine so I just used a generic y pipe and some elbows and made it myself, but you could have used the E9 p/n's to get your y pipe and elbows then you would just have had to get the downpipe off the turbo for the E6/7 since the E9 makes a 90 towards the drivers side to go to the turbo mounted behind the engine sideways by the firewall. I was told by a friend at chrome country after I got done that he could have gotten it all from Grand Rock for half the price of OEM parts but I was already done and I used 6" elbows under my cab so my 5" stops up under there a few inches and I would have had to make that fit anyway, but such is the way with making changes like 6" stacks and elbows.

I watched that before, been working on trucks for about 20 years now and I still cant figure that video out, but I can fix air brakes!

I think I can get the "camelback" suspension from that truck onto the Superliner! and then Ill actually have a real engine........ E9 baby

if the alarm doesnt go off during the day as you use the brakes then sounds like the air supply from the secondary tank to the switch is coming up slower than the primary air tank so the alarm stays on longer, you should have a split guage make sure one needle isnt low till the alarm goes off, if not there may be an air leak on the accesory side of the secondary reservoir ther will be several 1/4 in lines d=coming off and heading to the dash one of those supplys the air for the guage and alarm

Vlad does your truck have an air dryer that is popping off frequently? I think that is what you are talking about, if so the air dryer can pop early and repeatedly for several reasons, 1 is the governor, 2 is a leak in the unloader line its one of the two plastis 1/4" air lines going from the dryer to the governor, 3 is the unloaders in the head on the air compressor, 4 is a bad gasket on the governor, and 5 would be a bad purge valve in the dryer. I always rebuilt my air dryer once a year this consists of a purge valve kit and a new dessicant cartridge , the unloaders in the air compressor have o-rings and a plastic back up ring that wear out and need to be replaced also, the governor can be replaced for less than $20 , the unloader rebuild kit for the air compressor is $40 and the purge valve kit and dessicant cartridge for a Bendix AD9 dryer will run about $160 for both. Use soapy water to check for leaks in the small air lines from the governor if it loses pressure it will pop.

next the spring inside will rust and break and youll be back in it again, just get a d-2 governor and swap it out, almost every parts place has em in stock I actually keep one or two here at the house last Bendix brand I bought was $19 and the power products was $14.

Glad we could help, post some pics of the truck when you can.