rsb502

ups freight is a whole nother ball of wax, they still run like overnight here, actually still use old overnight internationals in blue and gray. I have seen the freight trucks for sale but I know the guys that cut up the brown trucks, there were 8 old package car front frames with engines and trannys sitting in them, 1 international tractor and 4 old ch macks there last time I stopped by.

Mmm mmm mmm, well I guess that does it for me I'm shipping by ups only till I see that, no more fed ex for this guy.

Ha ive tried that twice if you get a hit let me know Im looking for some 4.17 to 3.65 rears too 3.86 would be great and I even have 4.64's sitting here waiting.

UPS had an issue years ago witha truck they sold, apparently the new owner got in a wreck and ended up blaming ups for selling him a truck with bad brakes and in the end they got sued by the new owner and the other party in the accident and it cost them LOTS of money. Ever since that accident UPS will not sell a vehicle it must be scrapped, there is a place here in Nashville that gets them in all the time they come in and they have to cut the frame right then under supervision and a form is filled out and signed that the vehicle was destroyed. I always wondered if you could buy one weld it back together and apply for a rebuilt title, its done all the time I dont see why it wouldnt work, there is a CH in Nashville right now with a remack engine new in 2011.

Ha,wtf man, I typed aset or tried to and my phone decided I meant asshole my phones a jerk.

I just take this one to truck shows, my 84 I pulled containers, dump trailers and lowboy the 84 had E9 440hp 12spd and 4.42 rears it would pull anything you put behind it. I have an 85 now with an E9 450hp, 9 spd and 4.64 rears (till I can change em to 3.86) I am just taking this one to shows for now I work for the railroad now so no truckin for me anymore. I had a 93ch with an E7 400 9spd and 3.86 rears, 04 granite asshole ai427, 310m 10spd and 4.64 rears, ok I'm tired more for later.

I actually missed that 3.68/3.86 gear thing, I had 3.86 in my old CH and I dont think I have ever seen a 3.68 either, Cowboy that hill they call Mt. Eagle will surprise ya its steep and curvy so its hard to get a run at the good parts, thats why I like my E9's they seem to take that 7% grade down to about 2%. I would love to have some 3.86 rears for mine I will keep looking and they will be great in your truck for your use they are about as high as I would go with the 12 spd you will have plenty of gears to choose from to keep that 350 around 1500 where they like to pull.

Most diesel shops can get you a replacement turbo thats a little bigger that will bolt right in at the most just changing some intake elbows, I put an upgrade on a 01 CH with a 460 and it went right on and was a wastegated turbo from a place in canada it was $900 if I remember right and made her run better and got the egt's down almost 300 degrees on long hills.

could be either, most are adjustable,put a guage in line adjust it then remove the guage, or just leave it there if you dont want to remove it, bendix has preset regulators you can get at most truck parts places for less than $20.

man im slippin here, I wasnt done again, its got 7" exhaust tips, a 13" drop visor, quad airhorns(eh give or take) and polished aluminum tanks with the 3" wide straps instead of the skinny stock straps, I looked at one next to a stocker a year or two ago, both set forward axle Granite dump chassis, both the same drivetrain/frame length up in WV and the rawhide was a whole nother monster, yeah its all bolt ons but they add up and it looks like a different truck

oops click on rawhide, then features, then interior.

Dont forget the larger 6" exhaust, and the cool embroidery on the seats, and it is button tuck interior not just nocer interior, they are pretty sweet inside, outside on a granite you amost cant tell a difference other than the horns and pipes, still sweet. http://www.mackgranite.com/index.aspx?tf=1&subs=3

yeah but then you wouldnt get to smell burning grease and see the pretty blue and purple flames dropping down on your arm as you work, and thats just not fun.

I would grab the 3.68's, if you dont want em I do where are they located and can you get me a price or a phone number? I have 4.64's and need to gear up in a bad way. The 3.68 versus the 4.17 you will loose a little torque multiplication (or power at tthe wheels) but you would only drop about 200 rpm in top gear at speed, the trtxl tranny is an awesome piece of mechanical brilliance it has a gear for every situation and if you treat it right it will last you. The 350 E6 with 4.17's is a good match, you might feel a bit under powered on the highway with the 3.68's but they are good gears for highway speeds it really just depends on your average driving speeds and whether or not you can stand to lose a dab of rear wheel torque. I would think it will pull fine with the higher gears and the 12 speed will keep you in the power band no matter where you run, like I said if you dont want em I do so dont let em go to scrap I will try my best to make a deal on em and get em here for my truck and then I can let someone that needs a set of 4.64's have at my carriers. As for the whole rear swap, I would just swap carriers, those axles have been in there a long time and the crazy thing about bolts that have been tight for a long time is they break and you dont want to deal with that crap on those big suspension bolts the carrier bolts will come out a lot easier, just remember the bolts inside the side cover before you start yanking on the carrier with a front end loader.

Um,well a better Turbo will help, and it helps in more ways than one, more boost/cfm equals more power, and more cfm equals lower egt's so its a win win, oh and most of the upgrades are cheaper than OEM so win,win,win.

grease? Your supposed to grease throwout bearings? Oops!

Tbone what ever happened with the integral B in TN? did ya get it?

Well new tires on the rear and nearly dead tires on the front with the pwr divider locked in on asphalt aint gud! I would get another rear carrier from a junkyard and give it a shot dont try to rebuild it if you dont have the correct tools it will cost you more in the long run, when you swap the carrier make sure to pull the axles out of the axle and clean the crap out of it to remove metal shavings,chunks,etc. I know its hard to resist the temptaion to just run it as is but pulling a heavy load on the power divider using the front diff is REALLY hard on the power divider and the front axle, and remember there is still metal floating around in the rear until you get it out that will probably kill the bearings if it hasnt already, I would swap them when you get another carrier. On another note if you think its too costly to put a carrier in the truck I may buy it, how much? I hate to think what you paid if a $750 carier is more than the truck is worth.

No my truck did not have any form of air dryer, most 80's trucks didnt have them, I added one in line from the compressor to the tank and it all but completely eliminated any moisture in my air system, and that is a good thing with a 12 spd. oh.... and air brakes!

EGT's shouldnt get much higher with an exhaust manifold crack, maybe a piece missing, is there any exhaust soot around the crack? is the crack open enough to feel exhaust blowing thru at idle? I doubt it is the sound you hear, get a spray botle with soapy water and idle the truck up to about 1000rpm go spray every piece of intake piping and all connections looking for bubbles should be pretty easy to see you can do the same to the charge air cooler, I would say its a boost leak leading to higher EGT's the engine is trying to work harder and not getting the air needed to keep the temp down, E7 460's move just enough air to keep the EGT down with the stock turbo with everything in good condition.

Are you looking for an upgrade or just trying to get a cheaper oem replacement?

Well if the brake is truly gone and not able to be adjusted and its a std. clutch brake youll have to get in there and cut it off the input shaft without damaging the shaft or clutch(I like a small air saw and then an air chisel) and replace it with a two piece that pins or bolts together. Its actually not that bad, the hardest thing is getting the old one off the two piece goes on easy then you just have to check it and adjust if necessary.

Oh and the 4-6-6-6 Allegheny did make the highest actual recorded horsepower as per the C&O/Lima dynamometer car at over 7000 for a brief moment but the Big Boy maintained its pulling power at speeds the alleghenys couldnt reach.

Ah the center cab 4-4-0, it was an interesting idea to get better visibility but the SP AC-4 Cab Forward was the king, the only real issue with them was running the oil and water all the way to the other end of an articulated loco lots of piping and lots of leaks. I still prefer the UP FEF series 4-8-4 and Challenger 4-6-6-4 they are beasts and they still have one of each running, the Big Boy 4-8-8-4 was the baddest in the land but was actually too big and heavy for most railroad lines in the US so the challengers and mallets reigned supreme, the C&O had some big articulated steam it was several feet shorter in length a couple feet shorter in height and weighed a couple tons less than a big boy but the Allegheneys (4-6-6-6) ran well just like the Pennsy Y class mallets

Yeah E for exhaust, and no air shouldnt leak out of the exhaust in any position, your shifter needs to be recuilt and the kit at Mack was $26 when I got it for mine. Warpman, make sure you supply clean dry air to that trans, it will save you some issues down the road like sticky shift solenoids and slow or erratic shifting. Mine had a spin on air filter on the trans that I changed every time I changed the oil, I also added an Air dryer (bendix AD-9 $175) it makes the whole air system happier and it cost you about $140 to get a new purge valve and a dessicant cartridge to rebuild it so I did mine once a year, Bendix recommends once a year or every 100k mi. I wish you luck thats the best transmission Makc ever built in my mind you always have the right gear with that one.