rsb502

That damn bumper has been a pain the ass, it took 3 days to get it on for one reason or another and after this show its coming back off to get new brackets made that move it up an inch and support it a little better. Did ya go get a CH yet? I hate to see the Superliner get parked but your right efficient and light is the key for making money.

I agree it looks rounded but its not a +3 I had to take a second and third look too. Look behind the grab handle on the side of my truck in the attatched pic, there is a body line that runs vertically down the +3 cab behind the grab handle it blends in near the bottom of the door and the body line under the window, that is where the std. cab started to round to the back wall they put it there to show off the extra room. I have heard of steel dash +3 cabs in AU too but never seen one I dont know if they are a myth or not, it would be cool though those old dashes are neat kindof make the truck feel like a truck when its all steel. I would love to have that truck and I wont to see it in person when its done Im sure it will be perfect from what I can see there.

Well I have worked on it for 7 weeks almost every day after work and on weekends but I guess I got her as ready as she is gonna be for the Cookeville ATHS show tomorrow. Ill post better pics tomorrow after the show for now heres one in the driveway. Thanks to Staxx for the help he was here when he could have been at home on vacation, Im sure Ill be there helping him with the old R model project soon.

Not a plus 3 cab its a flat back std. cab I have never seen a steel dash plus 3 cab, I didnt think they made the +3 till after the steel dash was long gone, like 73 maybe?

I love pics of old hard core work trucks, they havent made anything like that in a long time and I havent driven anything like that ever but I want too one day, maybe I can find an old B85 dump somewhere hiding in the weeds and fix it up that would be sweet. thanks for the pics.

the stealth brake was a Jacobs compression brake and an exhaust brake the exhaust brake was the stealth part making the exhaust quieter. I have removed the exhaust brake from a friends truck and changed the wiring to match a standard Jacobs E7 engine brake hi-lo-off,or two heads, one head, off the added strength of the valve springs is actually a good thing for the engine and wont hurt a thing. I have also replaced the factory oil pump with a high volume oil pump from...... PAI I think and the added oil flow made the brake work great it had to almost double the braking effort. I know the settings on the Jake on the stealth trucks was a little wider check the gap and set it to that of a standard E7 Jake and it will work a little better.

Just a teaser, Ill have good pics by the end of the week I still got more to do for it to be "ready" at least for now, I think my truck budget for the year is toast and yes that is a 9" custom cut drop visor for an R model cab and I can get you the info if you want it.

from your pics you have stud pilot wheels and the center hub bore should be standard for that style alcoa, the hub pilot wheels have a few different hub diameters but they dont have conical seat lug nuts like yours. Mack accessories catalog p/n for the ABS plastic front hub cover and lug nut set is 5398-15000 other than that its all what you want, if you tell me what you want Ill go get em and ship them to you, you can pay me thru paypal. I can get whatever, baby moon smooth style, pointed, black chrome,the baby moons that cover the hub and lug nuts all in one large cover, I can get whatever kind of lug nut covers you want I use the smooth top hat style I think they have a clean look.

one quick way to check for the wiring issue is to locate the plug end and use a multi meter and check across the contacts if there is continuity between them something is up in the harness. I just thought about that sensor I dont think I have ever messed with one how many wires go to the sensor 1,2or 3 if its one check for a grounded wire using the engine ground on one lead two or three check across the wires, if its melted and grounding on the engine you can check like for one wire on all wires and you will know if one is grounded to the block.

Hmm thats a thinker I was under the impression all aset engines had that sensor, let me do some research in my books here. I would guess if its not the sensor then there is an issue with the wiring harness going to the sensor location, I believe the engine harness has the plug there for the sensor and that if its not there and you are getting a code then the harness has been melted or pinched somehwere between the ECM and the Ambient air temp sensor plug, or there is water or something equally bad for electrical systems in the end of the plug.

I am on my second RW double frame and both had surface rust however I never have spread the rails to get it taken care of inside. I plan to paint the one I have now in the next couple years and will probably take the frame apart and do it right at that point but a big part of keeping the double rust at bay is to just keep it dry, park it under cover or use a tarp over it and you can slow it way down.

I think they made non electronic 550 on up to 750 hp marine versions of the E9, I know the australian 610hp versions were VMAC1 with the Bosch electronic pump but ran well from what I hear.

for any chrome parts center caps lug nut covers, whatever call Mike at Chrome Country here in the U.S. he ships all over the world and itc actually pretty reasonable from what a friend told me he is from Poland and his brother drives a truck there we had Mike send him lots of Chrome parts he cant get there the number is 877-247-6289, web is www.chromecountry.com I dont know what the country code and prefixes are from Moscow sorry, Mike at Chrome Country can get your center caps and lug nut covers too you if you cant get them overseas cheaper.

obviously the year is wrong this is not a 1990, and 13,500, well I dont know but down in the ad it says make offer so apparently they want to get rid of it and if the roll off setup works someone will buy it for sure.http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=3403831&

thanks Mackattack, I called HPS earlier this week and talked to one of their tech guys for about an hour he checked all their 4.5" elbows and they are all for coolant so the burst pressure is only about 20-25 psi they are rated for 15 to 18 psi to work with a high pressure radiator cap of around 16 to 18. I thought about trying one and being easy but then I remembered my last E9 got to 26 psi of manifold pressure bobtail on a hill and I have a couple big ones on the way to Cookeville next saturday and with a burst pressure of 20psi I am al most sure to pop one making over 25. I will be getting thei coolant hoses though they are made well and they back em up so after talking to the guy there I plan to get a list together and replace all the hose on my truck with HPS hose, I think I have the updated piping arrangement for the E9 RW and MH located and should get it next week, hopefully in time to get it on and go find new coupler hoses and get to the show but itll be tight.

that is actually the update for bothe the RW and MH you want to sell em?, are there any p/ns on anything you have there? I gotta get something to get this thing to the show in a week and a half Im running out of time. the updated pipe arrngmt. is in figure 2 for an E9 do they look like this if so I can use em.

probably E6 then the E9 has a 4.5 in OD on the coupler 4.20 ID at the coupler end, the E6 is 3.5"ID on the connector hoses. from what my service bulletin says the MH and RW have the same piping arrangement and both used the same update, I wonder if ol man WIX would let me borrow one to get to the show and back? He might have some sitting in a corner of a shed somewhere.

NOPE I called and left my number Ill try agin in the morning I need a hose or this thing is just a freakin driveway decoration till later this winter when I got the cash for custom piping and straight hoses.

Some parts guys are pretty good at not checking to make sure you get the correct rods there are a few different lengths and yes one is longer than the other if you have the taper mount which it seems you do a come-along or small bottle jack is all you need to get the axle where it needs to be to get the bolts started. As far as alignment goes they are pretty much self aligning if you put all the correct washers and bolts in the correct places I dont actually think you can misalign it, unless your REALLY SMART! I have has the taper mounts get stuck in there and had to heat and beat to get them out then I thought about it for a minute and with one small 6 ton bottle jack and a couple 4x4's you can pop it right out using the frame as a push point(just dont get too greedy), I put pressure on it with the jack then smack the top of the taper hole with a brass BFH and it pops right out.

Well Mack was wrong again that so called updated part was for an E6 truck it will fit inside my charge air lines so Im still screwed on the intake hose, any help would be awesome and supposedly the MH trucks have the same piping so the soft elbow coupler at the cooler from an RW or MH should work but I gotta have on from somewhere. Mack p/n 45MD331AM

I didnt know there were any working M75's left but that appeared to be one right there in them there pics.

I just got my cable off ad my drive is ok it was a broken cable end, I suggest putting the plastic end in the tach drive if your cable has the slip on end, if you use the metal end it will kill the tach drive but the plastic will break before the tach drive does if you have it, I am on my way to get a new cable and a couple plastic ends tomorrow, its the same one thats i your speedo sender. I can get you the tach drive number off mine if you still need it I cleaned it off today and the sticker is still there.

I tried several places all had Charge air hoses but they are all straight and only a few had 4.5" ID, I talked to a few people that make silicone 45 degree hoses and they are not rated for more than 20psi and I should make about 25 to 28 stock and more like 30 after I play a little. I got back with Watts today they called Mack and got a different p/n they said was an update but it does not cross in the computer the new p/n for the 45MD331AM is 45MD417M supposedly, Ill have it by noon tomorrow so well see. thanks for the replys I will be pissed if I have spent all this money and time to get this thing ready for the ATHS show in two weeks and not have a hose to get there.

thanks, he only has one I need em both to get mine done so the search continues, I think I have a deal working for some rears this winter well see.

I have so many HO scale trucks it kinda silly, I have been in to Model Railroading since I was little and I have amassed quite the collection, I have some Superliner kits that use an R frame that I need to build one of these days too. I have so many toy trucks I might qualify as a horder to some people I have em everywhere(in boxes right now because of the move) Kitchen, living room, office, bedroom, garage, everywhere. I have a few of the Bruder Mack Granites I have been saving to do an R/C truck using the Tamiya King Hauler chassis and some other parts I just happen to have but its not happened yet, some day.