rsb502

I was looking around on truck paper and what do i find..... http://www.truckpaper.com/listingsdetail/detail.aspx?OHID=3781067&

nice now i have to get my little seeper E9 450 up and road ready and meet ya when i head to the Mack show in PA next year

did you replace the bearings for the water pump/fan hub?

I just bought it so far it has run a grand total of about 8 hours, I had an 84 E9 it never did this I think I am going to get osme things fixed, put some tires on it and hit the road to load the engine up if its s stuck ring it should re seal if I load it hard a time or two.

found this on ebay somebody hurry and get it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-Mack-R-700-6spd-V-8-tractor-ten-wheeler-tandem-axle-865-V-8-/170889077172?pt=Commercial_Trucks&hash=item27c9c861b4

heres another one, Mack had a long relationship with New York, I think every heavy truck owned by New York City, Fire, Police, and roads were all Mack until Mack stopped making Fire apparatus then they went to Seagrave I believe. I wish I had all the Mack FDNY toys I had growing up, I had the Super Pumper set from Corgi, 5 or 6 rescue trucks and probably 20 fire trucks, all Mack but theyre long gone now (just like my sanity) http://www.flickr.com/photos/anesti1981/5131667373/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/loomup/5074976314/ Well here it is.

I wish I could get my hands on that r model, Im sure you would have an uphill battle restoring it but you would be the only factory crew cab Mack owner in the world.

I think I know what Im getting into but Ill ask anyway, I have an E9 that has some oil dripping out of the exhaust between manifold sections, appears to be coming from cyl 5 or 6. I had a friend stare at it with me and scratch his head and what we can come up with is either a stuck piston ring or the valve cover is filling with oil. The engine runs smooth at all rpms, doesnt smoke like its burning oil but I still have oil dripping from my manifold, there are no valve seals in an E9 that I know of its just a valve guide that is reamed to the proper I.D. for the valve so Im wondering if my rocker shaft or dynatard solenoid could be leakig enough oil to fill the valve cover high enough to run down the stem into the cylinder and out the exhaust, there is some oil seeping around the valve cover gasket that is just showing up so Im leaning toward a full cover, so what do the experts here think? ( I do actually plan to pull the covers Im just wondering if someone has done this already) ( Im gonna put two seal rings on the manifold when it goes back together too).

Im surprised 4:11's arent steep enough to pull a trailer, what do you have for a transmission, what about tires? I pulled a dump trailer quite a while on 3:86 rears its still pulling one actually.

The axle housing has suspension perches welded on it, they are different for different types of suspension so the key is do you want to try to cut and grind them smooth then try to find the right perches and weld them back on? I dont know what kind of suspension you are talking about(there are several) and the air ride will have the axle mounted to a spring with a bushing up front bolted to the hanger and in the rear the air bag, these are normally u bolted to the top of the axle. Spring ride suspensions can be mounted one of a hundred ways just depends on the type.

Believe it or not a broken or damaged front suspension can cause that issue, the rear suspension can sit at an angle the only thing trying to keep it level is the torque rod. The air lines are teed off from the valve to the air bags and the air pressure is equal throughout the rear suspension system, it does not care if it leans one bag will just carry more volume than the other. In the case of a friends truck he broke a front right spring and the truck leaned to the right making the rear right tire come into contact with the fender, when the front suspension is on level ground the truck should sit level since on the front there are matching springs not an air system both sides support the load independantly versus the air system on the rear axles with equal air pressure throughout. I hope that helps ( or just makes sense)

Is the torque rod from the axle to the frame bent or are the rod ends worn out? also right rear spring bushing?, how do the front springs look? if the truck is parked on level ground without a trailer is the front end level?

Was this an issue with the electrical connector leading to the bosch electronic injection pump on an E7? maybe a wire towards the outside like maybe the pump power wire?

Variable Geometry Turbo position sensor, thats is the sensor that tells the computer what position the sliding nozzle in your turbo is in, Im guessing this is on an AC engine but none the less it means the little electronic box on your turbo has an issue or your turbo is acting a fool either way it sounds like a turbo swap in your future (unless they are swapping the control modules seperately now)

Eaton easy pedal all the way your left leg will thank you, and it is just as heavy as any other in the 1850 rating.

I stand corrected, I was thinking of something else. (dont know what)

if you want to make sure its the same, yank one of yours off (sorry lol) then put a straifghtedge across the back and measure to the mounting surface, then subtract half the width of the wheel 8.25" wheels would be 4.125" that gives you the inset which is how alcoa measures their wheels. There are a bunch of different wheel insets out there and thats the only way I know of to be sure you get the same wheel if you cant read the factory p/n on the wheel, if you can find that just look it up. Alcoa p/n 88311 is a 10 hole stud pilot with 5.68 inset, p/n 88361 has 5.81 so its just about an 1/8 inch difference (.13", 1/8 is .125"). I hope that helps.

electronic issues can be depressing but i still think it can be fixed if you can get the laptop back on it clear the codes run it and watch the code when it happens if its still a timing sensor code (3-5,3-5) it just about has to be the sensor or the wiring good luck id come help you figure it out if i could.

I have been meaning to get these links posted and a thread here has reminded me so here they is, dont forget that v-mac fault codes changed from one version to the next so make sure you use the one for your computer or youll chase your tail(experience talkin there). http://www.seapyramid.net/rt/mack-engine-fault-codes/ http://library.motoralldata.com/techRef/WebHelp/Powertrain_Trouble_Code_Charts/Mack/V-MAC.htm http://www.auroramack.com/pdf/308/V-MAC%20Fault%20Assignments.pdf

I have the link for you to check out your codes,http://library.motoralldata.com/techRef/WebHelp/Powertrain_Trouble_Code_Charts/Mack/V-MAC.htm 3-4 is no timing event marker signal, 3-5 is timing actuator response improper seems like a timing sensor issue to me and if the sensor is new i would trace the wires thers not much else in that circuit if i remember correctly, 7-2 is parking brake switch voltage high which is weird to say the least.

seems to be a timing issue either timing event or timing actuator not sure where to start on that one sorry I am sure someone here does it just aint me.

You pretty much named the best ones right there,a 237 with a quad would be sweet and the trans is geared for the power band in that engine. I dont think the input torque is up to the challenge of a 300 or anything larger, I cant remember what size clutch went in those from the factory thats another concern with the larger higher horsepower engines you need a bigger clutch.

read the code when it is active is the best way to fix the issue have the laptop there and when it derates what code does it bring up it will be the same one every time, other fault codes will log for different things when an engine is in derate mode, they can throw you off.

the water level sensor in that tank on the radiator can cause a derate on hills if it wants to if you remove the plug from the sensor and jump it with a paperclip you can hit a hill and eliminate that sensor.