rsb502

you gotta love somebody with the guts to chop a Mack 4 inches (Im guessing4) I have thought about trying it several times, Im just scared I would hit my head!

could be pulling oil past the seals in turbo then compressing oily intake air, on top of bad rings in the compressor the compressor just about has to be the culprit.

with .60 od and 11r24.5 @43in diameter that makes it about 60.5 mph @1800 so its pretty low.

if you dont have an air dryer look into one I had a trtxl1070 in my last RW and had the same issue the truck came with a spin on filter for the trans air it did not remove the water so the filters got clogged and crap went into the shift solenoids I rebuilt the shift solenoids and added an air dryer and never had another issue, i replaced my regulator too just in case and set it at 60 as per the shop manual which I found on ebay. pages 9 thru12 are troubleshooting and under slow shift air pressure and clogged system components is the killer also make sure the shift cylinder breather is clear this exhausts the air during shifting and will slow or stop the shift if the air has nowhere to go. te manual is p/n 10-trtxl 107/1010-100.5

I cant think of any reason the two would come into contact unless there was a cracked head as stated before the galleys in the head for fuel and coolant are pretty close and a small crack under boost pressure and heat, like pulling hills would open the crack and force antifreeze under steam pressure thru any fissure.

I didnt think they made an E9 without a dynatard on it? maybe the marine version.

it seems to run smooth anyway Ill make a better video of the whole truck next time I have a chance.

Name: 1985 Superliner Date Added: Owner: 84superdog 84superdog

I sniffed this one out like my last two Mack purchases,it was behind a building mixed in with several other trucks and as I went by something told me to stop and look at the trucks and there it was, I have some pretty neat plans for it I think. I have already found a 14' piece of outer frame rail that I plan to cut in half then take my camelback trunion loose from the frame and slide it back to the end of the inner frame and cut the outer back about a foot and attatch the new pieces to get my rear frame extended to where it needs to be. I think my math is right and that will give me a 280inch wheelbase right now its a 236, I will probably go with a set of miter cut 6" stacks and I have already ordered a drop visor now I just have to figure out what to do about a bumper, Id say 18 or 20 in with J&J brackets and led arrow turn signals like my old granite. I hate to say what I paid since it was a pretty good deal when compared to other E9 trucks on Truck Paper and in The Wheels of Time, Ill say it will be under $20,000 after I do all of the above and chrome out the dash and replace the seats and a few other pieces as long as I dont run into anything thats really messed up. I will probably be 5 years getting it like I want but thats what I wanted another E9 truck to tinker with, and yes I have Dale Franis's phone number if I decide to get really carried away. thanks for the comments, does anybody know where to get the mattresses that are notched for those sleepers the one in the truck hsa to go but I have never seen anyone selling those notched ones.

Yeah its not a factory visor and the mounts look crappy so I am ordering a 12"drop visor to try out on this one, Ill probably end up with a stocker but Ill give it a shot.

When you go get it your gonna need a Superliner with a big Mack V8 to haul it, you know just to be safe id hate to ruin a good Pete by overloading it.

Well I got another V8 Superliner its an85 with an E9 450, rtx 9 spd and mack 44k 4:64 rears and now I need stuff for it to get it into shape, I am looking for anyone who has any E9 or superliner parts for sale or trade. I think I can get it driveable to make it to the ATHS fall show in Cookeville in September all I need is tires and a wheel seal, maybe some front end parts and lots of elbow grease. I will take any elbow grease anybody has laying around too, I am gonna polish it out and see what Ive got, Ill probably paint the frame and engine and replace some interior parts to get her decent and off we go.

I have just bought an 85 superliner with 44 rears and I am looking for a set of 4:17 or 3:86 CHunks to swap in place of the 4:64's that are in the trucktop of housing stamped 64kh595-p4

I am in the market for a set of 4:17 or 3:86 Mack 44k chunks I have just bought a truck with 4:64s I gotta swap em.

I had a time trying to explain to a friend he was wasting his time trying to outpull my E9 on hills. He bought a new pete with a 475 high torque cat that didnt work, then he took it to 550, that didnt work then he bought a 625 ecm for it and I sold the truck but I doubt it would have done it either. I had my 04 Granite 427 turned up so much I could outpull his older 475/550 cat all day long he hated it, just shows you what a 460xt program can do.

I have even had issues with the VIN for parts, my 04 Granite had a completely different set of belts and pulleys from what the VIN showed I had to use the P/N to get them, I think it was due to the beginning of the ASET engine run in the middle of a model year, possibly around my build number.

Definetly start with the ecm harness as Bulldogrider suf=ggested I had a 93 ch with an electronic E7 400 and had issues with the connector near the pump as well. I know now from talking to other Mack mechanics that the electronic pump was plagued with wiring issues, the first version had a plug in the back that wore out so the update removed that plug and hardwired the pump then the wires in the plug would got hot and melt the plug or the pins would get loose and cause several issues. I would say its a safe bet to start there, I just removed the plug by the pump and used solder and heat shrink to connect the pump and solved my issues. I hope thats it, if not its a pretty good bet you have a injector nozzle or pump issue if its fuel smoke. I would check the exhaust for a sweet antifreeze smell and usually there is a wet antifreeze slime coating the pipe if its a water issue,if it smells like raw fuel and its more of a blu/white smoke its probably injection. I would guess injection at that point and use a heat gun on the exhaust manifold at start up to find the offending cylinder and go from there. Good Luck.

Actually I have an old set of rubber flaps from the 70's in my shed that have dogs facing either direction so they both look the right way, I havent seen any since I bought these and Im not letting them out of my sight.

I dont know about the breather deal, you do have the ability to draw more cfm thru two 13" external breathers than the one internal breather. However the internal filter housing flows more cfm than the 5" pipe to the turbo does and since both the internal and external breather setups use 5" delivery piping I dont really see any gains in cfm. I can see a lower intake air temp due to a hot underhood airbox and lower suction pressures at the twin external intakes versus the single internal but I doubt that would change the cfm at the turbo. I dont know if you could actually change the piping to 6" all the way out or not I know the external breathers have 4" or 5" openings depending on brand, I guess you could make a y pipe that had two smaller pipes from the breathers joining in a 6" pipe for an increase in cfm to the turbo I know you gain around 40% more volume from 5" to 6" pipe so the math looks good if your fabrication skills are up to the challenge.