rsb502

When are ya leaving I've got a few things to do tomorrow but I'm always up for a ride in the Superliner when I have a flimsy pretext.

Bell Buckle, Staxx is in Wartrace, Mike is in Goodlettesville, there's more I just can't remember.

Um actually the back box is the same on a 13/18 speed, the difference is the fact that you "can't" use deep reduction in low range to get the 14.40. However you can swap the shifter or just pop the plastic stop out of the 13 speed shifter to select deep reduction in low range giving the same low gear. However in an Eaton the gears and bearings in the front box in low range are different than those in an 18 speed,they're bigger for more torque capacity.

Hmmm, never had one loose that I know of, but I never took the caps off for no reason to check either.

Oh the 5.02's were used with MP7's and have a .64OD, the 4.64's were used with MP8's and have .67OD

Be 1600rpm @ 65mph with 4.64's and 11R22.5's, 1500@65mph with 4.42's. I don't know what kind ofspeeds your planning on running but remember the lower the axle gears the better it'll do off road and on hills, keep the temps on the torque converter down too. If your dealer is waiting on you to make a gear choice I'd ponder on 4.42 or 4.64, 4.80 seems low and 4.19 seems high. I'd go with a 4.42 and 11R22.5 or low pro 24.5 tires if it was me, tall 24.5's are too freakin expensive now.

Found 5.02 and 4.64 gears available, that's it.

Purchase= wife Lease/purchase option=long term relationship Rent= dating or hooker(depends on perspective)

Your low will be lower than the Eaton trans, an 8LL,15 or 18spd has 14.40 low gear, other than that its in the 12's. What makes you say the E9 isn't very driver friendly, I like em better than most other engines. If your gonna do something for driveability swap to a Mack 12 speed or a 13/18 speed and rock on. I'm pretty sure you'll want to swap to some higher rears after you do I'd go with the 4.17 for what you are wanting to do. Oh and you'll still have a freakin E9, and that worth a lot.

well low pro 24.5's and 11 r 22.5's are the same height so no change there, for 1500 rpm youll need 3.86/3.87 with the low pro, I get around 6.5 what Ive checked, my 84 stayed in the 6.4-6.8 range with 4.42 rears.

What size tires are you running and what do you want to do with your truck? I have 3.65 rears in mine with 11R24.5's and its a little high for heavy haul. I think Ill go to 3.86-4.17 but again I have 11R24.5 tires if your running 11R22.5's then a 3.87/3.86-3.65 would work well, if tall 24's then probably 3.87-4.17 just depends on weight really, that and your expected average road speed. I try to run 68 or so and it puts me around 1400rpm with 3.65 rears and tall 24.5's, 4.17's will raise it 200rpm, 3.86's will be about 100 rpm, with my .74OD.

My 85 has a 14609 I know Im making more than 1400# of torque and its still going so far, Im gonna put whatever 13 or 18 I can find over a 14 series in it, I could kill an 18 series but if you drive it right youll be ok.

I vowed not to leave the house today after I remembered last year, Im not driving thru town unless I have to.

The math shows 1600rpm@70 with a 4.17 and 1700rpm@ 70 with a 4.42 but the overall gearing gains down low are pretty good.

I would go with a steeper rear axle, 4.10 isn't going to do as well off road and for the uses you just explained. I'd go with a 4.42 rear, especially with the tall rubber you'll still have plenty of speed on the road. All the dump trucks I've had and fun have been either 4.42 or 4.64 rears and all would run 70-75 just fine and have rpm left to give.

Nice looking truck good luck with it, and yeah replace the shift fork and shifter assy and she'll shift like new.

Bad shake at 55 on the throttle, check your u joints and carrier bearing.

Sorry to hear about the engine troubles, I think I would have to stick with the big cam, I like the N14 idea and obviously I'm all for Mack engines. However the 855 Cummins is a solid engine, and you can in frame that engine cheaper than an E7. I wouldn't worry about the block unless it didn't meet specs, if the counterbores can be cut smooth and the crank and cam are good ID in frame it with Cummins parts and three reman heads. While your at it you can swap your injectors out for a set of CARB approved 9 hole injectors, the 48state injectors are 7 hole if I remember right and the better atomization helps power and economy. I don't know if they are still doin it but Cummins used to in frame big cam engines for like $8500 with reman heads, water pump and oil pump, and it was all Cummins parts not PAI.

That's pretty cool, got no idea how the turbo/charger is working together when it has two air intakes, shouldn't the turbo blow into the supercharger? That thing has me confused, I see a cold air pipe from the intercooler going to the intake and nothing between it and the charger.

The hubs from one to the other that is on the swap over.

Well TDOT is on a roll, two days of salting and spreading brine and two days of ice free roads. Monday afternoon they started spreading brine on all the bridges, hills and ramps, and guess what......no ice Tuesday morning! Oh by the way it rained an inch(literally) Monday night and never got below 38 degrees but in trots defense the said there wouldn't be ablny slick spots and it worked. Then last night they salted bridges, etc again saying they had it under control and the roads would be clear, guess what.....they were clear this morning....amazing! I applaud TDOT's efforts and their excellent record, so far they are two for two this year they put down due ICER and there was no ice, oh yeah and it didn't get below 34 last night and was so windy the roads were mostly dry by morning but hey it worked no ice. Wtf? LOL!

The hub on the steer may be the same, just swap studs that's how Staxx truck is working out. I doubt it because of the year but it could be, get the front hub part number from Watts and cross reference it. If the MH and CH have the same weight rating front axle it should swap over.

With a pre powerleash brake CCRS engine 01-03 the engine brakes love thick oil and lots of it, the external line kit, high volume oil pump and two or three gallons of Lucas in your oil change will change it by about 50%. If you can tell a big difference in the brake with a cold engine its because of the thicker oil/higher oil pressure. This engine is not a 14+liter Cat or Cummins you have to remember that, your running a 12 liter now, if you get it pulling like the big Cummins and Cat its a bad dude to run like it has 100+ more cubic inches. If that Etech has 901k on it without a rebuild its been an awesome engine, do you know if its been inframed or swapped with a reman engine? The oil use isn't great for power, all that oil is going somewhere and if its not leaking it or putting it in the coolant its burning it which will make less power. Good luck with the truck but as the guys above have said the Jake can be made to do well with a little work, its not that expensive if you can do it yourself either and probably wouldn't hurt to roll in some bearings while the oil pump was getting swapped if its actually got 901k.

heres a drawing from a patent for a certain type of wheel profile, there are multiple radii that have to be turned in sequence to get it right, its a nightmare to try to read.

Im going on what I was told by the guys at Mack about a Mack thermocouple, I just bundle up the spare wire and zip tie it there under the hood.