rsb502

They spray the brine here too but not much and only before possible snow, then they switch to salt spreaders. TDOT uses big plastic tanks in the beds of dump trucks with a PVC drip bar a foot or two off the ground, they just open the valve and let it run out in 9 or 10 little streams as they drive.

Two letters for ya....B.S.!

Yeah thermocouple s measure resistance and the wire leads are part of the equation, you can't cut em or shorten them up it throws it off.

What did they charge per pound? $6300 seems like a lot to me, if its 10tn he got you for over $100/1000#

I see all the dog house comments and I just told a friend yesterday I should build a shop shaped like a dog house for mine, lol. Nice score there Leslie your gonna be glad you did that, just remember no snowy back roads this year ok.

What the hell is all that crap behind the cab? And why does it need a stand alone cab guard? Looks like they over complicated a dump truck by about $100,000.

In the one pic alone stopped to weight the truck you can see 3 yards with trailers, I'm guessing he does that often.

I put '05 Granite seats in my '84 RW.

Yeah that seat will bolt on your mounting plate.

I was looking for pics of that R to post, that's what I would do right there. Of course if your hauling fire trucks you could try to find a Mack CF 5 man enclosed cab, remove the body and mount a 5th wheel.

http://m.truckpaper.com/ListingDetail/Index?listingId=3590077&categoryId=217

McMinnville, again? Man you know I live about 20 miles from there right?

Too damn many Macks and not enough Freightliner's and Volvos

If you do a Wide Ride seat you'll have to remove the left armrest to get it lined up with the steering wheel. I bought a bostrom T910 lo ride mid back in gray cloth and it fits with the armrest, oh and its only $600

That is one sweet little R dump, Id love to have one like that to piddle with.

Looks like a messed up ekg

The older thermocouples like on my RW's have two ring terminals that you screw together.

Valley Chrome does a decent job, if you look at the pics of my Black Granite it had a 20" Valley Chrome boxed end bumper. The bumper in the pic appears to be a std 18" Texas square with the tow pin holes and light holes. You can order a bumper however you want it won't be a stock item, you'll have to pick the pattern for your truck, then what style (Texas square, boxed end square, tapered,etc) then add options like tow pin,step or light holes. I ordered the one on my RW from Long Road Bumper Sales in AL, ordered it as an 18" boxed end square, RW 2 bolt pattern, added two bolt holes for the plate hanger and a step hole that is hidden by the plate hanger. I like the guys there but they don't get things right much and mine came in as a 20", looks good though so whatever.

Yeah that R would have been a sweet ride, definitely high dollar with all those options. Hell I think its the first R I've ever seen with moto mirrors.

Its actually not a big deal to just start over on the wiring to the back of the frame in that truck. If you open the hood and look at the firewall in front of the drivers feet above the hole the steering shaft comes thru there is an electrical relay strip. Located on this are all the wires from inside the dash connected then a but then all the wires going out to the chassis. If you start at the rear of the truck removing wire ties and pulling all the light wiring forward you will eventually get to this strip. I have removed the wiring from this strip back on several trucks, then replaced it with a good 14ga 4-6 conductor cable. I have what's left of a spool of 4-14ga cable that I used to splice in when I stretched my RW an it was really close to the OEM wiring. Then all you have to do is use a test light to determine your outputs on the strip(park,cl,R turn/brk, L turn/brk) then starting at the power strip run the new cable to the back of the truck. I leave a few extra inches at the front and use some ring terminals to connect it once its in, then hook up the lights at the rear as needed. I have had good luck with a light wiring "relay box" mounted to the rear crossmember, connect the cable from the from inside then the short run to the lights on top of that(makes it easier to repair later). I hope that helps its really pretty simple, you should be able to re wire it all within a couple hours on that truck with the wiring connector strip set up on the firewall.

Why not just get a new Mack thermocouple and or gauge, I've replaced thermocouples on most of the trucks I've had and never actually had a bad gauge.

tag on the engine would say advertised hp rating, it would be 460 for a straight 460hp and 485 or 487 I cant remember for an XT, if it has a badge on the door that says E7-460 its a 460hp if it says E7-460XT its a 487hp.

Go with the 11R22.5's they are freakin cheap compared to the 11R24.5's right now, just gear it right to run with the 22.5's, the 11r22.5's are 42" tall and 11r24.5's are 44" tall so you only get one more inch of ground clearance anyway, with the Allison you will probably want to go with the 4.80 rears, somewhere in that area most are in the 5.02 range with 11R24.5's and an Allison, I would say 4.64 rears with 11R22.5's and an Allison would be about as high as you would want to gear it don't go with the 4.19's. With a 4000RDS (.64OD) and 4.80 rears and 11R22.5 tires you would be running around 1597rpm at 65mph, with a 4500 series(.67OD) you would be closer to 1672rpm, going to 4.64 rears would be 1544 for the 4000 series and 1616 for the 4500 series at 65mph. figure your gearing right the first time so your not unhappy later, remember the 4500 series is a wider range with a lower low the 4000 is a closer ratio so I would probably go witht he 4500 if the price and weight were close to get the wide ratio and gear it to run around 1600rpm at 65mph with 11r22.5's. just my two cents more for ya.

DIED! I tell you, if somebody ever KO'ed my Superliner at a truck stop or in a parking lot in general I would end up in jail, no joke.

If you don't understand the spec ask the salesman to show you on another truck. Also have them show you the estimated road speed and rpm of the truck and get the gearing set up so you have your peak torque close to your cruise mph. Don't gear it too low there's no reason to run 1800 rpm on the road 1600 is a lot better on fuel and will pull just as good or better depending on engine. I would run 4.17 rears with a low gear mack transmission with .71OD and 42" tall (11r22.5 or lo pro 24.5)tires and closer to 4.34/4.42 rears with 44" tall 11r24.5's.