rsb502

if your going to use it on site don't even think about something that wasn't a heavy chassis from the factory, you can load a tri axle with 16' Rogers or ox body up to over 80,000# before you realize it, if your going to do on site a tandem is probably going to be better I the long run, you will want 20k front and at least 44k rears I would look for heavier, 52-65k, don't get a body over 16' long youll overload it and break the truck in half and make sure you grease the truck constantly, like weekly if its going to be used on site. I would think an older R model tandem would be ok, an RD or DM tandem would work well also they are about the best thing Mack has ever made for a dump truck due to the low center of gravity and ridiculously good handling characteristics. Also don't count out the DM cause its got an offset cab and doesn't look as nice, that cab was designed offset for on site work it gives you a lot better view of what your doing and they are almost always specd right for heavy work.

That fire sprinkler hook up had some nice ...uh elbows, kinda wonder if more pipe isn't needed?

looks like an old 350, nice machines just the right weight and balance for a 60" x 60" mass excavation bucket or a shallow 72"x 48-60", you can load trucks in a hurry with one for sure and they don't rock nearly as much as a 330C or D with a 60" mass bucket.

that's a Herzog cartopper setup for unloading gons of rock or sand, we have deere 160 excavators to run thru ours at CSX.

If its a CH its not a dump truck, the CH max steer axle was 16k and most are 12's, I have always had 18-20k steers on a dump. I have run tri axle dumps around here a long time and if its not double framed with at minimum 18 front 44rears and an 18 tag I'm out. There isn't really enough info in your post to let you know where that truck would fall short, what kind of weight are you looking to gross? Are you going to be hauling on/off road or sticking to stockpile or paving work? I would steer clear of anything not built as a heavy chassis for a dump truck, look at an RD, DM, Granite, RW700 or CL700 series truck. As for finding trucks truck paper and craigslist are pretty much the top two.

Mudflaps? Who cares about mudflaps, he's buying chrome!

Unless you found a way to get that thermometer to measure the gas in the middle of your downpipe that doest really work. The pyro thermocouple is long enough to read the temp of the exhaust gas in the center of the exhaust stream and under a load it will run anywhere from 100-300 hotter than surface temp of the pipe so a 200degree difference means its about right.

That's why I like miter cut stacks, the biggest part if the sound goes away but they still sound good. I put 8'long 6" miters on top of 6" elbows so mine are 12'6" to the top.

TN does not have a non commercial class a or b, if you own it you can drive it as long as it is for non commercial use, I know lots of guys with antique trucks and farm trucks here that don't have cdl's and not one has ever been hassled as long as its no for hire. I know all of the antique and most farm truk guys have not for hire on the side and most I know have never even been stopped or asked anything, the gvw doesn't matter the size doesn't matter, for hire matters. On the CF having a gvw of 33k that's gross vehicle weight rating G-V-W-R, loaded not empty weight, the empty weight is probably more like 20-24k, our old mack CF was 21,000 without water and hose when we drove it back from up north.

looks gud, I bet it talks to you with the stacks that short and turned out by the window.

how did you check the pyro?

I've had an axle oil catch pan for years, its not kentool it was lisle I believe and its red but it fits right in the wheel and works like a champ. I think it was $30, well worth it to not have to clean gear oil after it runs all over everything.

The key or they keyway? The little square stock is the key and the little cutout it fits into is the keyway.

I really like that she thinks 82hrs in 8 days is too much. I guess math isn't her strong suit cause that's only 10.25 hrs a day, I work 12-14 all the time but nobody seems worried about my rest.

Geeeez, I'm out!

If the fuel lines were collapsed it would starve for fuel and not get hot.

That's Kissinger's superliner from the shell calendar isn't it?

Well for a first picture you couldn't have picked better subject matter.

The 93 CH with E7 400 vmac1 and 9 spd I had is still running. They aren't power houses by any means but they are fairly reliable, biggest issue is the electrical connector to the pump and the hard wired connections in the back. I had to fix a couple melted pins in mine and steve completely replaced it after he bought it. You can get a blixxton or other electronic module and a turbo and gain some power but its not gonna be close to the E9. I have heard of a pump shop building the pump 10% over and stacking the box on that and adding the bigger turbo to gain over 100hp to the wheels, Rochester injection has parts for em, call them up first for the vmac1 stuff.

Yeah, its still a fuel issue your going to have to pull the pump and have it checked then reinstall at the correct timing. Better stop running it now before you burn it up again, I remember you swapping the turbo so the air should be good so its gotta be fuel. Just out of curiosity have you checked the exhaust for a restriction like a bad muffler? Take the muffler loose at the bottom and see if anything is rusted or broken loose and blocking the flow.

type photobucket, or flikr in a search and set up an account then you just have to upload you pics to your new page on their server, if your camera has a memory card you can just put the card in a card reader slot in most computers if yours lacks one decent card readers are about $20 bucks, I have a flikr account and between my flikr,gmail,and youtube I have the same user id and password thru google.

Supposedly you could add 50% to your service interval, if you change your oil every 10k that means it would go to 15k, so if it added 2 gallons to a std truck you would be at 48qts and 1 more filter element, but you would get 5000 more miles to a service for the extra $30-$40. Math time, lets see if oil was $10/gal(I know it isn't anymore) that's $100 for oil for a std service plus a $40 filter kit, that's a $140 service with no labor, divided by 10k that's .014 cents a mile, add 2 more gallons of oil to get $120 for oil and another $10 filter for a total of $170 divided by 15k that's .0113/mile, make sense now? Oh and add to that cooler oil temps due to the added oil and the heat loss in the external tank and lines and the reduced heat stress on bearings and seals because of the lower oil temp and it made sense to do on older engines. Now that filtration has evolved and with Mack using the Centrimax filters from the E7 on up and the changes in oil ratings and abilities the added cost and the bottom line gets a little different. I would guess that the engines in service today and the oil available to use in them has made any meaningful service life change a moot point. However if you were to use one of the spinners on a new engine not equipped with one the added oil and filtration capability, coupled with the extra soot and particulates in the newer engines from EGR and it may be well worth it even on a std service interval, only oil analysis would tell the whole story.

LuberFiner? its an external oil filter mounted on the drivers side of most trucks when used, a lot of older Pete, KW and Freightliners had Luberfiner external oil filters. They were designed to add oil capacity and an external high capacity oil filter to extend oil change intervals and reduce oil contamination and soot/sludge build up in the engine. I have pulled a few off of trucks for people due to the lack of parts and high cost of replacement after they are rusted and dinged up but have never run one myself. Heres a couple pics, both on Peter 359's

If I was going to run twins I would mount them behind the engine to the sides of where the stock turbo is, you could run smaller turbos, probably 50mm or so and get plenty out of em. The real issue is gonna be the piping but again it can be smaller so I think it would fit. The other option would be two 60-65mm turbos mounted towards the rear on each side as far outboard as you could, then dump the exhaust to one stack on each side under the cab, or if you want to scavenge the exhaust from side to side run two 4" pipes to a 6" Y and back out or up one larger stack, you would need a lot of fuel and compression to run a 60-65mm of 4 cyls though. Hell you would have a hell of a time spinning a 50-55mm on each side with a stock E9 and making any boost, most stock E9's running a 65mm turbo rarely make over 25lbs. The big thing people don't understand about these engines is that they didn't use a lot of turbo to make their power in stock form so the more pressure you put on em the shorter the life and the bigger the chance of catastrophic failure. The stock E9 turbo is a 60 or 65mm and there are a lot of guys making over 800hp on under 50lbs of boost with an 80mm so I don't see the draw of twins, actually I don't think anyone I have talked to used more than 40-45psi to do anything on the road. I have seen a pulling truck running an 80mm making 65lbs and one running a 90mm making 60 and they were no where near stock, probably making 1000hp plus at the wheels. Brutus what do you have on your pulling truck, Holset HT4C? how much boost and how much pump and injector to get it to work?

There's pics on here somewhere of Killer and Buckeye both running quads, of course one 80mm Borg Warner will make 800+ HP on an E9.