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Wrong guy, I think you're thinking of jasonhill: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/43495-1958-c85-window-regulator/

Here's the thread I referenced earlier: http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?/topic/38114-electric-fuel-pump/

I'm on my phone and can't "quote" posts right for some reason, but here goes- I had found a thread on here discussing this exact thing where that pump was listed as a viable option, but can't find it at the moment to link to it. As far as the fuel lines, that's correct, my plan is to replace the existing rubber hoses, more as a precaution than anything else, and I'm planning on wiring it with a relay so it is only on when the ignition is on. The pump arrived yesterday, so I'm hoping to get it installed sometime next week and will post the results when I do

With warmer weather hopefully arriving before too long, and anticipating being able to actively work on the rig again, I've decided to convert to an electric fuel pump. Yesterday while checking on the rig, I discovered that the mechanical pump is now leaking both gas and oil, and after doing some research, a conversion seems to be a good way to go. After checking the forums here, I ordered a Carter P4070 on Amazon for $62 (free shipping), and will post pictures once I get it installed; I also plan to replace the fuel lines with ethanol-resistant hose. In the meantime, can any of you offer any helpful hints or things I should look out for when making the switch?

Over the weekend, myself and my "better half" paid a visit to the Schuylkill Historical Fire Society in Shenandoah, PA to visit the museum and pick up a few odds and ends for my pumper. Here's the few shots of the Mack apparatus that turned out half decent, there are so many more rigs there that I couldn't quite get good pictures of. The museum itself is a very nicely restored firehouse, and I would highly recommend visiting! Ex-Harrisburg Tower 2 A little hard to see, a C model tiller CF Squirt that was in service with my C pumper:

It is!

It's been a while since I've been able to do any work on the rig (holidays and whatnot), but I'm hoping to get into it some more this winter. The first, and hopefully simplest, is getting the speedometer rebuilt, as it "bounces" 5-10 mph on either side of the actual speed while going down the road. I also want to remove the rear body panel (under the hosebed) to nip some surface rust in the bud before it develops any further- any thoughts/suggestions on removing that panel? I took a quick look at it and can't seem to find how to get it apart.

I got to talk to him after the services; it's a gorgeous rig!

We drove right by it to get to the PA Monument, but it's too far off the road to get a good pic with my phone- next spring we're going to go out and get some better pics with my wife's camera

I'm just north of Gettysburg

Took the rig out yesterday (Saturday) to York for the funeral of a past fire chief and Mack apparatus enthusiast who passed away from brain cancer. I missed getting individual pics of a few of them, including Lincolnway's recently retired CF which carried the Chief's ashes to the cemetary, but here's what I got:

Thanks for the tip, do you happen to remember the name of that clutch shop? I'm about an hour and 20 mins north of Bmore, so that's a feasible option

Quick update: I've tried the baby powder idea, dumping it in the top opening with the clutch disengaged, and it doesn't seem to have done anything to help. I feel that the baby powder isn't getting to the actual clutch face; I may try more brake cleaner when I get a chance. I've pretty well adapted my driving to compensate for the slippage, but it gets pretty slow on long upward grades.

Took advantage of the beautiful weather today to go for a drive (and ice cream ). Took the rig out on the Gettysburg battlefield for a few pics

Macks from the 2015 York Fire Muster. Mack seemed to be a little under-represented being a central PA muster, but it is nice to see the "other stuff" sometimes, too. Mine, of course: A few detail shots:

As far as electrical, I would imagine it's a positive ground system, maybe the batteries are hooked up backwards?

This has the 707C

Another little update- the fuel pump and oil filter are back on, after a lot of swearing and frustration(mostly at the fuel pump)! I also ended up breaking the arm of the tank to pump valve when trying to loosen it, so for now I think I will put it back on and keep it as-is, as I have no plans on filling the tank any time soon.

I'm in the same boat! The need for equipment outweighs the money to buy it

A couple updates- removed the pump panel cover to get to the tank to pump valve, which was stuck. Removed the valve, and have it soaking to see if I can break it loose. Also removed the fuel pump and oil filter canister to fix the oil leak, and cleaned up and painted them while I have them off.

Great, thanks! I'm working all weekend, but will give it a shot on tuesday

I just want to confirm before I try the brake cleaner- would the circled area here be the best place to spray it in?

That's pretty much my theory right now- might as well try brake cleaner, the worst that can happen is that it doesn't do anything or does something bad to the clutch, which would need rebuilt either way. If it doesn't work, I'm going to just keep everything together to get me to 1 or 2 more musters this year, and do the heavy work over the winter. Thanks for the advice and input so far!

After investigating things a little more today, I think I've narrowed down the problem. There appears to be oil leaking from behind the fuel pump, where it connects to the side of the engine, which extends back along the side and underside of the engine and transmission. The closer to the fuel pump you get, the more fresh and thick the oil is. The rig had sat without being run for about a year before I bought it, so my best guess (and based on you guys' suggestions) is that the gasket between the fuel pump and engine went bad, and the more I drove it, the more oil pushed out and began getting into the clutch, eventually causing the slippage. My question now is, how should I go about trying to clean the oil off the parts in the clutch? Thoughts/suggestions?

I haven't gotten to delve into it that far quite yet, but that's going to be the first thing I check once I can