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MACKS

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by MACKS

  1. I would go with 15-40 year round.
  2. That nut may have thread lock on it and might have to be heated with a torch,a 3/4 inch gun should take it off if you have the right air pressure at the gun,also sometimes you just have to let the air gun do it's job and keep pounding until it breaks free.
  3. Sounds like you found the problem but since the power divider shares the same oil as the rest of the rear the metal filings could be coming from anywhere,I would pull the side cover off and have look inside,Good luck
  4. That pin would have to be worn bad to cause any kind of sag,if you can jack up the front of the truck under the bumper to get the weight off and look for any free play,the set screw holds the pin in loosen it than drive out the pin,jack up the front end so the spring end is out of the shackle and drive out the old bushings and replace them with new,I only did it once and had a heck of time getting the new pin in,the next time I went to a spring shop and they did the job while I waited took about half hour to forty minutes and I was on my way. Good luck if you do it yourself.
  5. Cheapest way is to change the ring and pinion gears but you will be limited to certain ratios.
  6. I'm betting that was the reason for the shaking and the wobble and if it's been loose for an extended time it's toast.
  7. Broken springs,shackles,or pins,you need to get to a spring shop.
  8. First thing to do is disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link then check the splines on both the pitman arm and the gear shaft,sounds like it's been lose for some time and the splines are more than likely shot at least on the pitman arm if so it will never tighten up properly,if you reuse the pitman arm or buy a new one install it before connecting it to the drag link look for the set screw marks on the gear shaft and you should be able to get it exactly where it was,after it's on check for equal travel in both directions make sure the set screws are tight,thats what holds it on.Good Luck
  9. If it's anything like NY Take a look at the reg,if it says transferable on the back that should be all you need along with a bill of sale.
  10. Mystic keeps there trucks sparkling clean they used to run all Mack R models but have since switched to kw but once in a wile I see one of there Macks here on Long Island.
  11. Just a thought,are you using the ac,compressor might be building up to much pressure.
  12. I have both versions of this trany,the two stick in my 83 RD behind a 300+ and the air shift in my 96 CL behind a 350,in my opinion the best and most versatile trany mack ever built,you won't use the deep reduction very muck the only time I use mine is when working in front of a milling machine I can creep along at just the right speed so I don't have to ride the clutch just check the numbers on the trany so you know if you have the direct or overdrive,pretty sure the overdrive trany ends with an o,good luck,
  13. If it's not broke don't fix it,you could put that thousand to better use.
  14. I think I'd have to throw a shell in my 45/70 for that one,LOL
  15. Not sure what you mean by at a certain point,adjust the valves in firing order at tdc on the compression stroke only,you can crack the line at the pump as you bring no one up to make sure you'r comeing up on the commpresion stroke than just follow the marks on the damper adjusting the rest in firing order. Good Luck
  16. Anyone that has backed a DM into an asphalt paver will tell you the reason for the off set cab is for visibility,you would just not believe the difference between an off set cab and a regular cab unless you drove one yourself.
  17. When the money flows you go.Maybe you'll make enough to fix the AC in the house,I'm betting the AC in the truck is kicking. qAC
  18. Same here on Long Island, it's shaping up to be the hottest summer in long time,thank god for the AC not only at home but in the truck,stay cool guys.
  19. Thanks for all the feedback guys,I'm not looking for any thing Mack specific, just universal type stuff,I grabbed a dynaflex chrome muffler from e-bay for cheap brand new and now need a few chrome elbows and mounting clamps,went to my truck parts store and there prices are crazy and the Mack dealership is worse,I'll check out some of the places you guys recommended.Thanks
  20. Thanks Rob,I'll check them out.
  21. Thinking of ordering a few chrome exhaust elbows and mounting clamps from them,any one here have anything to say about them good or bad,or does anyone know of any other on line stores that sell chrome exhaust parts that may be better or cheaper,I checked e-bay and couldn't find much there.Thanks for any input.
  22. For some reason the switch is working backwards,the engine brake should only be engaged when the throttle lever is in the idle position,maybe the switch is bad or the wires are hooked up wrong,try switching the wires and see what happens,but in the mean time do not rev the engine with the engine brake engaged,maybe that's why he had it disconnected.
  23. They both look great,for me I always liked blood red on the spokes and gray rims,not a B but on my old DM's I used rustoleum red and for the rims rustoleum gray with a little silver mixed in to lighten the gray a little and give it some sparkle the wedges get silver or chrome and the lug nuts get chrome caps,my cabs were green also and this looked great against the green.Have fun.
  24. LOL,your right about that Rob,I'd take the rattly doors any day.
  25. Your not wasting your time,the door should close nice and tight,take a look at the door gasket first and make sure it's good if not it's easy to replace it and then try to adjust to latch the way you did,gotta get it just right for a tight close,nothing worse than a rattly door.Good Luck
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