Maddog13407

god how the hell do we attract all the fucking exporters?!!

any cleaned up mack is classy. hell any dirty muddy beat up OLD Mack is classy. anything Pre CH days is classy in my eyes

that's a b75 I believe. was Kevin All's truck years ago I think she has some snot under the hood

I ditched the one filter on mine. im only runnin the green mack secondary spin on filter. my canister up by the waterpump was rotted and someone made a bracket to mount a spin on in its place.

knew it was a natural engine, couldn't remember. been a while since I looked at it. I do remember it has that optional green shag 70's thick carpet all over the floor and the roof vent was gone so everything was soaked

too bad some idiot cut the ass end of the frame off. that truck is fixable. I have welded up worse than that. rest of it looks solid, even had a budd front axle with power steering

yup, seen it at a few shows, really nice truck\. might need another 20K to feed that 2 mile per gallon engine though....

its possible to recab an older R with the newer style cab but you need the front cab mount brackets for the frame as the older cabs has the biscuit mounts like a B model and the newer ones had the saddle type mounts like a Superdog. also might have to change the rear cab/frame mount depending on what fuel tank set you you have. out r model at work has the square tanks mounted like a B model. most R models were under slung tanks that hung off the square tube that went across for the cab mount.

yup and Ny had the plate and gave you the little year upgrade. it was the year stamped out in metal that you bolted to the corner of the plate overtop the old plate. my grandfather said all the truck drivers workin for him use to steal them and sell them or trade them so they started spot welding the numbers to the license plates.

pretty rare to find one of those early H models anymore let alone two. were they at the same show? I like the B67 Carolina truck next to the WC22 White.

I know its an R600ST Vinster. I know its a single frame with I think 34 rears, 673 with a 10 speed direct. drooled over it for years but everyone said he wouldn't sell

when we drove from Ny to Fl a few years ago, I could not believe the number of antique lowboys down in Virginia, Carolinas and GA and Alabama!. old trucks to that they driver around to that are solid and they think nothing of it. seen many 73-79 Ford and 73-87 Chevys down there with 200 thousand miles on them solid as a rock.

73 or so give or take a few months was the first year for the plastic dash. yes little more leg room because the seat goes back a little farther, BUT not far enough haha. and direct bolt up? not so much. need to change the front frame mounts, depends on steering and depends how the fuel tank/rear cab square tube is. I put a newer telescoping steering wheel and swing down clutch pedal with cable clutch in my 66 R model. was a pretty direct bolt up. holes were all there.

been there, done that! what a bitch! just loosened the nuts before I knew enough to turn the bracket to lock it. learned the hard way!

I tried to buy that truck years ago when I had a good cab but nothing else. now I have everything but a frame and rears haha

seen a lot go to the scrapyard lately. they are a pretty good upgrade for a stock B model seat. I think parts are getting scarce as well

those Viking T bars are getting scarce. they just discontinued them and replace them with some crappy looking boxy seat. who would have thought after 50 years they would discontinue them

if I only had more time, money and less projects, that thing would be on its way to New York State. its already my colors to. think id drive it around how it is, rat rod style

both have potential. I like the old school Checkerboard print dumpbox on the A model myself. the B looks like it has an old Garwood box on it. A looks restorable. the B looks like it need some cab lovin

doors on both of our truck, the R and Dm at work are both Taiwan doors. what junk. locks didn't fit, latches didn't fit, tin sound when you close , IF they close. they flex so bad your lucky to get them closed and they are really our of shape. you would think a square shaped door would fit a square shaped cab, not so. id look for good used R models doors before id ever buy one of those junk China or Taiwan doors from Mack

we tend not to give any info out without PICTURES first haha. Lund no longer makes the visor but they show up from time to time. I only had to sand mine a little for more clearance around the two outside marker lights, other than that it bolted right on.

haha, mine has a new pinion seal in it and still flings grease all over the inside of the frame and under the fifth wheel plate. adds character I think, kinda like an old Panhead dripping oil. think mine nees a new yolk or s speediseal . I have taken a few Mack rears apart and found two pinion seals back to back in the housing from Mack originally also. think they leaked brand new sometimes.

I usually put the inner and outer fender together, then the inside headlight panel then put the outer on the assembly on the floor them mount the whole thing on the truck. well this time I didn't feel like undoing all the headlight wiring to take the headlight panel off so I left the inner and outer bolted to the horse collar and just took the outer and inner fender off. I have seen pictures of Matt Pfahl doin it and he puts the inner and outer headlite panels on the truck first, then bolts the fender up, so I figured id try it. right side went right on, left side was a bitch. (this only works with the newer style slide on radiator shell, not the bolted on one that bolts to the headlight panels) most B models I have worked on have had the plates welded to the headlight panels and changed over to the newer style shell/headlight panels by now tho. I also screw a 3/8 bolt in the cab with the head cut off, slip the fender over it and clamp a small pair of vise grips on the bolt after while I put the front bolts in, then put the back bolts in. saves on tryin to hold the fender up and put a bolt thru it and find the holes in the cab. thanks for the compliments guy. I think if I do another B I might use some sore of quick release wiring connector for the fender to headlight wires?

looks better in pictures trust me guys. dunno about the turn signals, was done before I started working. the truck was rolled and I think Ryder fixed it and the top of the cab is cocked and I think if you touch the right windshield just right it would probably fall right out. haha . also use to have that god aweful metallic blue colored frame and tanks with white cab and hood. good runnin truck tho, pedigreed 300 with a 9 speed RR. the screanin plant on the back sure makes it grunt though.

wasn't all me. had a hand from my better half putting the bolts back in the fenders and cleanin it from head to toe. anyone whos fought with the top fender/headlite panel bolt on a B model knows it can either go right it or take 3 hours to put ONE 3/8 s bolt in. and thanks for the compliments guys!