Maddog13407

yup Chrome wont help get you home.. the old timers always said. I don't really like the look of anything bigger than 4'' exhaust on an old Mack. like the big curve of the B and R models. think that pipe is discontinued. I bought just the top pipe that goes on the muffler with the long curve a few years ago from Cook Brothers in Binghamton Ny. they found 3 of them NOS and I bought them all, for stock of course. never know. was thinkin bout stockin up on a few pair of R model vent windows just in case they get stupid pricey like B model ones did. maybe ill retire early from sellin them haha.

nope never heard of that on a Mack. I know on Wc series Whites the front spokes were like that tho. you could put the valve stem in between any of them but only one way was right. two spokes had ears off the side where the old style Dayton rims with the riveted on valve stem protectors would slide into.

the Dodge was nice, as was the bus. the owner told the guy next to me he just drove it across the desert in 116+ heat and it never missed a beat. course the way the engine is crammed in there im glad I never have to work on one.

yup I cant even watch it. too far out there. like the idiots with the freightliner and trailer biddin on shippin an airplane or the guy with the van and trailer biddin on something he could never haul anyways just enough to bring the bid down for the real truckers

sweet. lookin good Mike, but cant you steal some round headlites out of one of those hoods you got layin around to make it Perfect? haha

I have both on my ring, came across a door lock set with the Mack logo leys NOS and I think all B Models came with Briggs and Stratton keys from the factory I think even the newer B models with key start had Briggs and Stratton keys. wonder why??

you didn't get a picture of the old restored bus Vinny?? that was my favorite!

that's a Mack part number, anything with a Q or P in it is usually Mack part number. the serial number on the L models was on the ass end of the frame by or above the spring hangers. which is a horrible spot if the frame has been modified.

what 2 stack said 1100 24.5 and 1100 24 are two different sizes and wont interchange. not sure what a equivalent of an 1100 24 would be... if they even make one. im sure someone on here knows.

they are NOT split rims. they are locking ring rims. split rims came on old ford, chevy, dodge style trucks and were actually split right around the center and actually had to lock together and were Budd style and were deady. the lock ring style is fine as long as u don't mix and match rings and rims and everything is clean.if its rusty or rotted, scrap them. either route is fine but you will end up payin more for less with a tube type tire as most 10.00 20's are made in china. any tire shops that says they wont work on a lock type rim I wouldn't be going to anyways cause they are idiots. there is nothing wrong with them and they are still common on shipping containers. as long as the rims are in good shape and you know how to work with them, they are fine. the benefits of tubeless is they are everywhere. tube type I would still cage putting together. basically all our old ones we deflate if they are junk, and cut the rim in two with a torch and scrap them rather than beating your brains out with a sledge hammer tryin to get the rusty rim out of the old tire.

yup that Paddy Wagon is Gary Mahan's. was at Macungie several years ago

believe that truck caught on fire and burned up so you probably wont see it anywhere....

pretty sure the truck was Rays white Superdog and the B75 was Bigdogtruckers B model headed to Ga

looks like the bearing was loose to me or has about 2 million miles on it. I have seen several FA505 front axles with spindles worn like that on B models.

wow that DMM with the steel nose is nice, never knew they made those with a steel nose

wow, they must have bondoed the ridges in the back of that cab right up

yup mine has been fixed once or twice already. the a bad spot. believe its where all three panels come together and they are overlapped so they rust in between. you need to cut the outside away, sandblast or seal the rust then replace the outside.

engine and transmission is worth 2 grand, and you can get a grand from scrap. bout all I see there

Mike we don't believe you have done anything because there is no proof! we need pictures!!! (tongue hanging out and drooling)

yup, 6 liter piece of shit, explains it all. my work truck is a 07 Super Duty extended cab Lariat 4 x 4. been in garage more than on the road and its only got 132,000 on it. just got it back Monday after its been in the shop for two weeks tracing wires and on its 5th alternator and 3rd set of batteries,. few months ago it was 4 new injectors, last fall it was a new Fuel injection computer that was about 2 grand, before that it was a new computer under the dash, pulls to the left, steering is like an old 1970 Ford F100, loose as hell with all new parts, new shocks, brakes, turbo makes weird noise, trailer brakes rarely work and its a Lariat with built in controller, and to top it off, has no balls. out 99 with 300,000 miles on the 7.3 you can put a 450 John Deere dozer on the trailer and it will walk up a hill like its not there. id gladly take that R600 with 300 and 6 speed to drive

yup, done that to, make sure its supported with a block under the hub in case it falls off the jack, get under it with a 12 lb sledge and hit the rim from behind.

take a grinder with a flapper disk on it and clean those spokes, put a few wedges back on and let it down, drive it back and forth a little, it will pop loose. and Mike is right, I only use an octagon bar with an old school tire iron wrench and can true them right up, of course I always put a PBR can on the ground next to the outside tire also. nothing wrong with spokes as long as everything is clean. its the last guy who put them together, didn't clean the threads or the spoke flat spots with a wire brush to remove the rust that's the problem. its the tubeless rims with the ridge in them I have trouble getting off a spoke rim when its on the inside. they have to come off perfectly straight cause the rims around smooth like a tube type. took me over an house before Macungie to get the inner tire off my B model to paint the rim.

never said I hated mutts, my B model is a Mutt, 59 frame and cab, one original door B42 front clip and bumper and rear springs, B61 front axle and rear springs, B68 rear housin and hubs, U model hogs head , r model triplex, fifth wheel off an autocar, one B42 fuel tank, one pass tank and air cleaner off another B61 and yet the front axle and engine off another B61.. I have seen a few R models with DM fuel tanks to btw.

haven't seen the Gravey Train b model in forever myself. makes you wonder where a lot of those old B models that use to show up in the 90's at Macungie went to.

im leaning twards Mutt. has the older 60's style front bumper but the 78-79 hood with the lip and the older style R600 emblem but the 73 and newer tan dash with plus 3 cab, I think around 1980 they went to the twin inlet air cleaner and ditched the hood scoop.